A big bluff of diorite looming over the Wollondilly river valley, this unique and obscure crag is guaranteed to provide adventure.
All route info sourced from sydney rockies guide.
On private property. Permission to climb was apparently granted by the landowners in 1998. The block the crag is located on is completely undeveloped, and you almost certainly will not run into a soul.
Wombeyan Caves Road, then a big slog up the hill through the bush and up the talus.
From the top of the crag, one possible descent is to the north (to the left when looking up at the crag from the base). Walk straight down the slope behind the crag until you reach a fence after a hundred meters or so. Turn left, and follow the fence for another couple of hundred meters. Hopefully you will see a small pile of scree up on a small ridge back to your left. It looks like a good lookout point. Climb this, and you will see you are past the northernmost buttress of the crag. Start descending down very steep scree, gullies, and slippery grass. If at some point you see a huge sprawling fig tree, head towards it and go around it to the right. Approach shoes or Volleys would be very nice to have (although we did it in climbing shoes), and take extreme care if it's wet!
Camping in the Wollondilly valley is described in the guide. If you're driving down from Sydney the night before, the Wollondilly Lookout, on your right a short while after you go through the old sandstone tunnel, is a good but exposed bivy spot.
Purely trad. Not a single bolt here.
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