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The Outrage Wall

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 14
  • Ascents: 312
  • Aka: La Infamia

Seasonality

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Description

The black and white streaked orange overhanging wall on the inside of the Potrero, on the west side with many, mostly harder, single and multi-pitch routes.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Approach

Pass the cattle guard and after about 30m take a right up the hill following a well marked path. There are wooden signs indicating the way to The Outrage Wall, The Spires and the sectors higher up.

Ethic inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Routes are listed right to left as you walk up from the road! The first route listed here is the lowest and first one you see when you hike up.

1 5.10c 17m
2 5.10b 17m
3 5.10b 20m
4 5.10b 10m

Starts right where the path hits the wall on the grey, blocky and cracky rock. First pitch 6 bolts, second one 7 bolts. 34m first 2 pitches together.

Excellent climb with lots of variation in technique, in the shade most of the day.

As of Feb-2020 there is now a direct rap line from the sixth pitch into "Afro-Juan" (thanks to Ulric Rousseau). Ulric Rousseau also added 20+ fixed steel draws for the descent, which needs to be back clipped in order to stay close to the wall during the overhanging rappels.

Set: Ulric Rousseau & Jacques Charbonneau, Feb 2020

ruta de dos largos primer largo de 30 metros con reunion y segundo largo aproximadamente 23 metros . proyecto abierto. es equipar los siguientes largos por encima. equipo necesario 15 anillas y cuerda de 60 metros minimo. la ruta comienza a la izquierda de el sendero del diablo a unos 10 metros subiendo .

Set: carlos vargas chacha

FA: carlos vargas zambrano chacha, 2013

use 70m rope

1 5.12c
2 5.11d
3 project

Shares first bolt of Afro Juan then goes left up the grey streak. Start up the right fixed rope to a stance. First two pitches are clean and sent

FFA: Mark Grundon First two pitches

FA: Mark Grundon & Dylan Conolle

use 70m rope

Starts right of No Excuses on the ledge,

Go up the fixed rope and belay from there.

Shares first 2 bolts with No Excuses.

Starts on the dark grey slab. Use the right anchor with chains.

There is an engraved name plate at the start.

usa a 70m rope or 2-60m ropes

Routes

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Grade Route

Shares first bolt with Love Removal Machine

The first pitch (5.11a/11c) gets you to Bronco Bowls

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Grades

Routes

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Grade Route

Long route that gets you to the base of Celestial Omnibus. A little runout before the anchors. It’s easier to get to Celestial Omnibus by climbing this but do consider that there are loose blocks so be careful. The climb goes through a crack/dihedral with good friction from new soft rock. Beware of crumbles.

FA: Alberto Sanchez

Set: Mark Grundon

Start in the same big block as Mothership Connection but instead of going straight up you continue going right and finishes at an anchor just left of Celestial Omnibus.

The extension of this route is a 5.13d called "Enrage"

Begin on Palm Sunday and then follow the dihedral right to the Habañero anchors.

Climbs just left of the palm tree on the wall.

FA: Mark Grundon & Joel Guadarrama, 2016

Climb up the slab and continue on the head wall.

Climb up on the slab of Cryin Brian and follow the corner left until the anchor of Grocals.

FA: Rick Ross & Simeon Heimowitz

This route climbs between Cleetus Walks the Plank and Grocals. The anchor of this route is just a few meters below the anchor of Cleetus Walks the Plank. (The name plate “Grocals” is misplaced on the start of this route)

Climb the slab up to the diagonal corner and follow the corner to the left to sharing anchor with Cleetus Walks the Plank. Anchor is close to the one for 'Slippery Down Under'. (The name plate is misplaced, climb the route left of nameplate)

FA: Mark Grundon & Karla Moya

FA: Mark Grundon & Norma Torres

Starts with Little Route, Big Tufa but continues straight / slightly right.

Starts below the obvious big tufa on yellowish ground. Trends left to same anchor as Moctezuma'z Tufa.

FA: Alex Catlin

Same anchor as Little Route, Big Tufa.

FA: Alex Catlin & Ralph Vega

FA: Alex Catlin & Edgardo Baca

FA: Alex Catlin & Edgardo Baca

FA: Alex Catlin

Fifty feet left of the old mine.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Frank P. Madden

Date: 2022

ISBN: 979-8218024314

The latest guidebook to El Potrero Chico is now available in its third edition. This book has comprehensive detail of not just the routes but how and when to be there. Single pitch or multi-pitch, this book has it all. More great crag photos to help locate the spot you want to climb as well as plenty of topo photos to help you find all the routes you will want to climb. The new edition also has a new history, local history and geology section of the guidebook produced by local members of the community! There is also the long awaited index by grade! A comprehensive guidebook for all of El Potrero Chico, Las Ventanas de Mina (Crescent Moon Buttress and Culo de Gato), Grutas de García, La Popa and Boca de los Potrerillos. Including a couple newly developed crags called Narnia and SunnyVale, and more than a few new routes unpublished anywhere else. Has multi-pitch topo photos for the classic routes with pitch by pitch information.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Thu 20 Apr
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