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Summary
Described by Mike Law as "possibly the worst cliff in the world, with some of the best climbs", you'll either love it or hate it.
Description
Ben Cairn is granite outcrop situated about 1.5 hours east of Melbourne. The surrounding area is heavily forested, picturesque but is not suitable for climbing in the winter.
It's a five minute walk in from the road and contains around 40 routes protected by a mixture of bolts and trad gear.
You can belay from the tourist guard railing or set up top ropes. Most routes involve friction slabbing. The rock is very fine grained making slab moves sometimes slippery.
Update: 25 Sep, 2011. Many routes may need cleaning to be safely climbed on lead.
Access issues
[As at 12 March 2018 Ben Cairn Road closed both ends due to landslip. Practically impossible to access].
From Melbourne take the Maroondah Highway to Healesville. Go through town, past the bridge, turn right at Don Rd and go 9.8km to a junction. Keep driving about 8km and the road becomes dirt. You pass a sign stating "Ben Cairn 1040m". Walk 5 minutes up the foot track to gain access to the crag.
Note: Both ends of Ben Cairn Road gated in winter. https://traffic.vicroads.vic.gov.au/ for further access information.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson
Date: 2011
ISBN: 9780646529387
Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.
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Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest
Date: 1994
ISBN: 0646167308
A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo
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| 12 | ★ Plumb Jamb | ||
| 20 R | ★★ Skating Away | ||
| 22 R | ★★ Pakenham Upper | ||
| 24 | ★★ Protagonist |
Photos Browse all photos
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Main Cliff - IMG_20190119_134852.jpg
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★★ Skating Away 20 R - Skating Away
Kai Seth Robertson on ★ Digit Dancer 20 - Kai Seth Robertson swimming up Digit Dancer in a makeshift harness. No problem.
★ Cracker Barrel 12 - 2015-11-22 15.58.20.jpg
Wed 19 Apr
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