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Description
Great little exposed crag which acquires some extra seclusion points from it's unorthodox access. Moving around the crag is a very vertical exercise. Many of the climbs offer some pretty spectacular exposure. Can be quite warm on the faces even in the morning. In the sun most of the day but this can be escaped for those willing to pull (or jam) a little harder in the caves above.
Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
Approach
A short paddle from Brooklyn boat ramp heading east. You can't miss it.
History
First recorded climbing here was by the Wondabyne Climbing Club, who aided the main crack line through the roof in the late 1970s. Phil Stallard led the roof pitch with his leg in a cast, having broken his leg some weeks prior.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint
Date: 2023
With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.
Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.
Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9780645299908
Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.
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Eagle Rock - ER5.jpg
Chris Bentham on ★★ Two Scoops 22 - And this is how i climbed that 23 in the dark.... :-) Chris showboating after several beers and bolts. Nick laps it up
Tue 18 Apr
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