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Summary
A sport crag of diminutive proportions! Caution: There's a bit of loose/weak rock that will clean up with traffic.
Description
'Dwarfland' is a small buttress hidden in the forest south of 'Mt Tibrogargan'. The climbs are well-protected & fun, it has that off-the-beaten-track feel and there are beautiful panoramas incorporating all the 'Glasshouse Mountains'.
All climbs have fixed protection with double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. a handful of bolts scattered around the top allow toproping of most of the cliff. Proper top anchors are planned so please be patient. The approach reaches the cliff at its rightmost end. For this reason the climbs are listed from R to L (or west to east). The wall at 'No Biggie' & 'Elfin' is north-facing and has sun almost all day. The wall at 'Nadir' etc is east-facing and is partially shaded by trees in the morning, completely shady in the afternoon. 'Like Icecream For Spiders' gets some afternoon shade too.
The top of the crag seems to be a popular lunch spot for hikers, with an abundance of loose rocks helmets are strongly advised!
The site is accessed by following the Trachyte Cicuit and the Yul-yan-man track.
Access issues
In 2017 QPWS plannned for a major upgrade to the tracks and the overall presentation of the low hills south of Tibro. An officially-sanctioned climbing development at Dwarfland was part of this project. It represented a unique opportunity for climbers to work with land managers through official channels to develop a sport crag that is well integrated into the National Park. Climbers had the chance for input into this project and in June 2018 the Yul-yan-man track was completed. This track takes you directly to the base of the Dwarfland Crag.
Approach
10-20 min
Thanks to QPWS there is a walking track to the crag, the Yul-yan-man track. Refer to the tracks image along with these instructions.
'Dwarfland' is about 70 km, or a one hour drive, north of Brisbane. Follow the Bruce Highway north and take the Steve Irwin Way turnoff 60km from Brisbane. Follow this for 6km before turning left at the "Matthew Flinders" rest area. Keep driving and turn left down Caves Rd at the railway bridge. Drive along this road (don't turn down Caves Lane).
As you drive down Caves Road you will reach a gate, no motor vehicles are permitted past this point. You can either park on the verge outside of the gate or back at the Matthew Flinders car park.
You will need to follow the Trachyte Circuit until it joins the Yul-yan-man Track. The circuit crosses Caves Road twice in a loop. Its dealers choice which way you go. The track is well sign posted, once you hit the Yul-yan-man trail follow it for 10 minutes which will take you to the base of the Dwarfland buttress slab, where you will be able to see the first main wall up and to your left.
GPS 26.94302 S, 152.936354 E
Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9377779499658
Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9780958079068
A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.
ⓘ
Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Melinda Van Slobbe on ★ Like Icecream For Spiders 19 - Mel on Like Icecream for Spiders
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Melinda Van Slobbe on ★ Booger Sugar 17 - Mel on Booger Sugar
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Dwarfland - Like icecream for spiders anchor
Dwarfland - Dwarfland Route.png
Wed 19 Apr
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