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Summary

Kambah rocks features a huge density of routes and is perfect for after work in summer, with the river at the base for a quick swim to cool off.

Description

About a 30 minute walk from the parking area for Kambah Pool, Kambah rocks is a popular crag, lying just a short distance away from the heart of the city. The climbs are often top-roped, less often led - there are some bolts, but you should consider bringing some trad gear if you want to lead.

This crag gets little sun so it's not a great option for winter - but great for summer. Best after 1 pm when the shade starts to appear.

Approach

There are two preferred options for parking - at the nearby Kambah Pool, or on Kambah Pool Road next to the gate marked 'Welcome - Murrumbidgee Corridor - Bullen Range Nature Reserve'. The gate marks the boundary of private property. Be aware that cars have been broken into at both options (leave nothing inside and the glovebox open to minimize the risk), and the carpark gate is closed at 9pm each night. Where you choose to park will affect the length and pleasantness of the walk in - somewhere between 20 minutes and an hour generally.

The cliff itself is at GPS coordinates -35.40563,149.02722

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Routes

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Grade Route

A leaning corner above the water at the left hand end

Three metres left of "Romance in Cow Paddocks". The nice, thin crack just left of the large overhang.

Climb up to the niche under the overhang, then left and up.

start 5 meters right of Downward Bound.

The undercut corner, then a small rooflet and up the corner above

April 2017: A substantial rockfall has removed most of the first half of this climb. With the new exposed rock loose and friable. It's in need of a clean. The route might still go. But likely harder than grade 20 now.

Start on the undercut wall behind the tree. Up the wall (leave the poor tree alone) to a ledge. Up the groove, then left onto the arete and up. A good finish on big buckets.

In the heavily vegetated corner. Not done much these days. Easily up wall to the ledge, then up the bottomless chimney

A body length of good moves. Climb up to the ledge, then up the right wall of the chimney to another ledge then finish up to the right.

There are two top rope anchor systems directly below the lookout on a ledge. The anchor for this climb is the one on the right when looking out.

Start at the left end of the wall under the lookout, a few meters left of Charlotte. Head up and left on the ramp, pulling through onto the wall above past an old piton, and up through the flared hand crack.

Caution
The hold on the top headwall is moving a little, and is fairly large. It will likely fail at some point soon.

Start left of the tree at a rooflet. Sustained face climbing the whole way with a difficult crux leads to a roof guarding the anchors. When pulling roof, be gentle with the jugs which have some fracture lines. Belayer take some precautions.

There are two top rope anchor setups directly below the lookout platform. The anchor for this climb is the one on the left when looking out.

Marked 'S' starting a meter or so left of CC. Arbitrary and challenging to find moves that aren't part of SRO or CC.

Nominally follows the vauge groove, then right for a few moves, then finish up SRO or CC

Up the blunt arete left of the big overhang. Starting at the 'CC' marking. Shares DBB with Scrofula and CS.

Move from out under the starting rooflet then continue up the arete with some tricky moves to get onto the face.

The corner left of the the big overhang and 1 meter right of CC, using a few holds on the arete

Step right from the corner once you are above the overhang and climb the groove

Climb the arete 3 meters right or CS to the roof, then traverse left and finish up CS

Up the wall right of the arete, then reach through the roof to the hand crack. Move right slightly and up to the top

A boulder problem consisting of a short rising traverse to the overhang.

A bouldery start bear hugging the arete leads to the minor rooflet. Move into the sweet flake, catch your breath then tackle some sustained and technical climbing all the way to the anchors. Keep looking left for your holds.

Strenuous climbing up the small corner. Head left to the flake and layaways. Finish left as for EA

continue up from the corner and slightly right to a jug just below the Bummer, then traverse left on big holds.

Follows the stepped corner, though several ring bolts and some fixed hangers to a new anchor.

Follow 'The Bummer' to the second ledge, then straight up over mantle on obvious holds to anchor of 'Silent Running'.

Up the wall just right of The Bummer, trying to stay off the corner.

Follow the prominent hand sized crack to the right of the bolted line The Bummer. Traditional gear protects you until you hit a sole bolt as you move through the face climbs of the head wall.

The once-brushed line a few meters right of SR

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