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1 4 25m
2 8 35m
3 8 35m
4 12 50m
5 11 25m
6 10m

description

Definitely the best way to climb Siren, especially as it only has one move at grade 12 and creates one of the best easy corner pitches anywhere!

  1. 25m (4) As for Siren

  2. 35m (8) As for Siren

  3. 35m (8) As for Siren

  4. 50m (12) Brilliant corner as for Siren but instead of stopping at the belay at 25m, continue up and step right through the rooflet and on to more glorious corner above. Belay on major ledge. From here either walk of left or...

  5. 10m (11) Walk left along the ledge to the small right-facing corner and finish up this for full value.

© (kieranl)

Route history

1964First ascent: Ian Guild & Doug Hatt..

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75237, 141.83915

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

4,8,8,12,11 Assigned grade
12 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
15 [14 - 16] ++ grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 84 from 103 ratings.

Difficulty - 12

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 6 ratings.

Suggested Grade

12
14

Based on 7 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 51
Flash 1
Red point 18
Tick 31

Comment keywords

committing intimidating scary easy epic arete short layback bad feet steep smooth traverse cruisy roof interesting pockets slabby rest crack exciting fabulous great fun superb enjoyable brilliant good cool stoked lovely amazing incredible super satisfying beautiful fantastic nice awesome pleasant sweet challenging tired

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 24 Apr
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