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Description

There use to be a big edge on the State Of Origin problems but some vandal smashed it off, so you now need to pop for the smaller holds in the break.

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Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

These climbs are right on the Great North Walk as it runs beside the boulder.

Yet another problem that's been vandalised. The starting flake is bit smaller than it used to be. Jump from the starting flake to the next flake and then straight up.

One of the best 5s in Sydney. Start right hand in the pocketey side pull just left of the scoop and go straight up aiming for the nice uncut just left of the scoop up high. Nails.

These climbs are on the rear of the boulder.

There use to be a big edge on the State Of Origin problems but some vandal smashed it off, so you now need to pop for the smaller holds in the break.

Up crack

From the arete traverse right finishing up Bog On Up.

About half way between the arete and Bog On Up is a faint feature around head height with two slopes on either side. Grab the slopes and make a series of desperate slaps to the right finishing up Bog On Up.

Mantle the good holds

Start on the lowest holds and pop for the small edges then up over left. There used to be a big edge, but it has been smashed off so this is now probably harder than V3.

Sit start and a long reach. The arete and the big edge half way up on its left are off. Mike Croker

Right of arete, starting very low. 'Arete' is off.

Easiest way off the Block

Overhang 10m right of The Block

Start on obvious jug. Needs some repeats to confirm grade. Good start sequence.

Eson Zhao

Set: Eson Zhao

FA: Eson, 3 Sep 2021

Since the jug has been smashed off by some vandal this may be undoable by mere mortals.

Start in the back of the cave, up out over the jugs and wrestle with the tricky finishing mantle.

Information needed

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 19 Apr
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