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Golfers crag

  • Grade context: UK

Description

From the Owey Ferry pier Walk North following the coast for 800m, descend onto a large area of rock platforms between 2 very prominent long narrow sea inlets. On your left is the wall and recess called "Cruit Cave." Scramble over the wave sculptured cliff tops for a further 80m to the highest point. Below facing North is "Golfers Crag" a scramble down East or West will allow access to the routes at either side of the crag.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the series of corners and platforms at the far Eastern end of crag.

FA: I. Miller, 2009

Climb the very obvious right trending ramp at the Eastern end of the crag.

FA: I. Miller & C. Gleeson, 2009

From the base of ‘The Ramp’ climb directly to the summit up the deep cracks and the cheeky Arete above.

FA: I. Miller & C. Gleeson, 2009

Starting 3m from the base of ‘The Ramp’ climb the left facing corner, cross the Ramp and continue up the step cracks above.

FA: I. Miller, 2009

Climb the steep cracks left of ‘Cookie Monster Corner’, cross ‘the Ramp’ and up the right facing 'Outside Broadcast ' corner to the summit.

FA: I. Miller, 2009

Climb the huge left facing corner, monster cams useful and 3D thinking required.

FA: I. Miller & C. Gleeson, 2009

Black Wall Direct HVS 5a 9m FA W. Schuessler, I. Miller 30/03/11 Climb the deep vertical crack to the left of ‘Actor's Dilema’.

FA: W. Schuessler & I. Miller, 2011

From the square platform in the centre of the crag climb the steep left facing corner and follow the left trending hand crack to summit. Excellent climbing!

FA: I. Miller & C. Gleeson, 2009

Climb the sharp arete to the left of ‘Ledge Route’.

FA: I. Miller & W. Schuessler, 2011

From the sea ward end of the square platform at the base of ‘Actor's Dilema’, climb the series of corners and ever decreasing ledges direct to the summit.

FA: I. Miller, 2009

Climb the Arete between ‘Ledge Route’ and ‘Bunkered’, pleasant steepness via the inverted flake.

FA: I.Miller & C. Gleeson, 2009

Climb the left trending fault from the centre of the tidal island at the base of the wall.

FA: I. Miller & C. Gleeson, 2009

Climb the deep right facing fault up the centre of the wall.

FA: I. Miller & C. Gleeson, 2009

Climb the steep vertical crack, right of centre, with a mildly puzzling crux.

FA: I. Miller & C. Gleeson, 2009

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Iain Millar

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780902940994

A selective guidebook describing the rock climbing in Donegal in Northwest Ireland, covering over 1,000 routes from sea cliffs and sea stacks, to islands and the mountains.

Author(s): David Flanagan

Date: 2014

ISBN: 9780956787422

A selective guidebook describing the very best traditional rock climbing to be found in Ireland, covering over 400 classic routes in some of Ireland’s wildest, most beautiful coastal and mountain areas.

Author(s): David Flanagan

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780956787439

A comprehensive guidebook describing every major and minor bouldering area found in Ireland, covering over 1,700 boulder problems from Font 3 to Font 8b+.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sun 23 Apr
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