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Description:

To reach the base of the route, climb the ramp at the base of the south face and look for the bolts.

  1. 50 ft (5.10b) Sustained and well-protected sport climbing leads up the left-traversing line of bolts on small edges and knobs. 7 bolts.

  2. 50 ft (5.10c) Reachy face climbing up small knobs and edges. 4 bolts.

  3. 60 ft (5.6) Easy climbing over interesting rock. Pro: knob tie-offs and cams 0.75" to 3".

  4. 100 ft (5.8 R) Meandering face climbing to the summit. Runout 5.7 slab moves 20' above the last bolt may be the psychological crux. 3 bolts. Pro: questionable knob tie-offs, 3" cam.

Don't even think of grabbing those dangerously loose flakes near the arête on P3 and P4. With so many hanging belays, it may be no surprise that this route is seldom climbed in 4 pitches.

Suggested variations:

  • Finish the first pitch at the higher new-looking optional 2-bolt anchor (just hangers with no option to rappel) offering a comfortable belay stance on a ledge. Combine the rest of P2 and P3 for a total of three pitches.
  • With a 70m rope, stop at the 2-bolt anchor above the comfy ledge. The rest of route (5.10c) can be combined into a single über-pitch.
  • With a 60m rope, climb the route in two long pitches by combining P1 + P2 (150 ft) and P3 + P4 (190 ft). Set up the first hanging belay at the 3-bolt anchor with two rusted leeper hangers and one blessedly bomber-looking new bolt.

Descent options:

  • Rappel back down the south face with a 60m rope.
  • Rappel down the north side of the summit, climb the last pitch of 'Harding's Chimney', then walk off north.

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Gary Anderson, Jay Smith, Rick Sumner, 1977

    They only placed 2 bolts!

Location:  

Located in South Face / The Fang approx:
Long/Lat: -120.308166,38.776028

Route Grade Citations

5.10 Rock 'N Road: Rock Climbing Areas of North America
5.10c Principal
5.10c Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe
5.10b, 5.10c, 5.6, 5.8 R *** Hard Landin' Brandon

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

fall tricky reachy

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