Help

Mädel

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 8

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

AF IXb. 4m links vom "Dekolleté" Wand (5R) auf Absatz. "Alter Weg" zG.

FA: 8 May 2021

AF VIIIb. In der Südseite des westlichen Vorbaus über Absatz, anfangs linkshaltend, Wand, Hangelrippe und Rissspur auf Vorgipfel. "Alter Weg" zG.

FA: S. Hille & K. Schlenkrich, 2009

Links am sűdwestƖichen Vorbau Wand (2 R, SU, 3. R) zu SchuƖter (nR). BeƖiebig zG.

FA: Jens Wagner & Andreas E, 5 May 2023

7m rechts vom "Schulterriss" Wand (4R), oben rechts Kante (5.R) auf Vorgipfel. "Alter Weg" zG.

FA: K. Schlenkrich, 2009

In der Νordseite, rechts vom "Schulterriss", Wand rechtshaltend (R) zum 3.R vom „Topf sucht Deckel“. Diesen zG.

FA: 23 Nov 2021

with support VIIb

Aus der Schlucht von "Alter Weg" Kamin 10m hoch zu Absatz. Übertritt und Wand (1.R) zum Riss der "Südwand". Diesen über deren 1.R und Rissrippe über 3.R zum Ende (4.R). Wand und Reibung linksansteigend (2R) um die Kante zum 2.R der "Südwand". Diese zG

FA: Jürgen Höfer, 2000

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): H. Schulze & V. Hölker

Date: 2022

Bizarre Felstürme, romantische Schluchten, endlose Wälder Eine über 150-jährige Klettertradition hat hier ein recht strenges Regelwerk bewahrt. Der Führer stellt eine Auswahl von über 300 der lohnendsten Sandsteinrouten, vorwiegend in den Schwierigkeitsgraden I bis VII vor. Gebietsfremden oder Anfängern soll der Einstieg ins Elbsandsteinklettern so erleichtert werden.

Author(s): B. Arnold

Date: 2017

Der Kletterführer bietet den ultimativen Überblick über die großen klassischen Kletterwege an den bis zu 100 Meter hohen Felsen des Elbsandsteingebirges.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Wed 19 Apr
Check out what is happening in Mädel.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文