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The climbs either side of the obvious smooth west facing wall (Wasp Warriors).

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

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Grade Route

10m R of Excuse Me While I Kiss The Sky is a big right facing corner/chimney. Climb up tree roots into chimney.

FA: Don Poe & Clive Curson, Feb 2017

Start about 3m R of Palaver.

FA: Don Poe & Clive Curson, Mar 2017

Just left of I M O Julius. Route name on first bolt.

FA: Don Poe & Clive Curson, Mar 2017

17 * [11D] Not such a pretty face when viewed through the fig tree. But the upper section has great climbing. Negotiate the blocky little corner 2m R of IMOJ thru the fig tree to access this narrow face between 2 chimney lines. Take care with some of the blocks down low. FA: Don Poe Clive Curson 3.2017

17 [11D] Start up BRUTUS for 5 Ubolts, stepping left onto DARTHs face just above the fig tree, just below the crux sequence. These are very sweet moves, laybacking right and left. FA: Clive Curson Don Poe 3.2017

15 * [11D] Climb the chimney, as for CEASAR, but stay outside the cleft, stemming left onto JAPF to avoid moving into the bowels of the earth, where the climb steepens. Up to anchors just left of the cleft. FA: Clive Curson Don Poe 3.2017

Starts up a creeper fig tree and into the chimney.

FFA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

Climb the fun chimney left of WAW and discover the cave system.

FFA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

Climb up the right arete. Avoid using opposite side of chimney. Then move right onto the face after the small roof.

FA: Rory Lowther (BB) Chris Rudolph & Rory Lowther, 2003

A rather loose few meters (careful) of easy climbing leads to an appealing yellow-dotted headwall. Fun climbing becomes technical higher up.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

Starts 8 m left of the Good and Evil arête and diagonally up right. Lead-out but safe. A great climb.

FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 2003

The obvious arête on the big blocky buttress to the left of the highest section of the crag when looking from the farmhouse parking. Stay left of the 5th bolt that was placed out there due to hollow sounding rock on the arete.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Voytek Modrzewski, 2003

Climb diagonally right up the middle of the obvious west facing face.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2003

The arete left of the prominent crack in the corner.

FA: Sarel Smit, 2003

The obvious chimney right of CR.

FA: Abert Smit, Sarel Smit, Wikus Spies & Lohan Spies, 2003

15 ** [~8D] About 10m R of AAPSTREKE is a bolt line up a corner right of a steep gully. FA: ?

Tagged. Follow the path around the corner 25m to the right of the Aapstreke chimney. Climb the small open book and skirt the overlap on the right.

FA: Liz Makovini, Nov 2015

16 * [14D] Overbolted? Could be your 1st 16. Pull onto the face 1m right of TOL. Continue up the slab, 1st slightly left, then up. The holds become a bit thin just before the anchor. FA: Clive Curson 10.2017

17 * [11D] Use the 1st pitch of GUNGADIN up to the belay ledge. Follow the P bolts up the middle of the face. FA: Clive Curson 10.2017

This ledge can be used to climb all 3 pitches above – 2 extra bolts lead leftward back to SONNY BOY. The ledge can be accessed more easily at ~ grade 11 by starting up SONNY BOY then heading right after the 4th bolt – to practice 2 pitch climbing.

19 * [11D] 20? From the belay, go diagonally right up the slab. This steepens below a corner, which is followed up to the anchors. The 2 pitches can easily be done as one [16D]. FA: C Curson 10.2017

Starting at a multi-stemmed tree, climb the curved crack to an aloe. Step left onto the ledge with a block, climb the face following the corner for 15m. Rail out left on face up to an ab tree. Take plenty small gear.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

19 * [11D] Start up WOSs curving crack at the multi-stemmed tree for 4m, then right through the rooflet, and straight up to anchors. FA: Clive Curson 10.2017

22 * [10D] 3m right of the multi-stemmed tree (1-2m L of NTF], start up the corner. A thin section gains the easier headwall FA: BB: C Curson


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