The middle section of the Crag. The first climb is approx 50 m right of the Wasp Warriors face.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information. A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Climbs the slabby wall approx 50 m right of Wasp Warriors.

Set by Neil Margetts

FA: Visiting Czech Climber, Jan 2009

Starts at the right hand end of the obvious long roof. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains!

FA: Mark Millar, 2004

A greatline. Pull a small overlap then head into the corner and race for the chains up steeper ground.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004

One of the best lines at the crag. A sustained and sequence of technical mastery takes you to the chains. Consensus is easy 28 (7c). Name written on the rock.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004

A slabby looking line on the golden wall between SWAT Team & Eldorado. The line weaves its way through a series of balancy moves.

FA: Andrew Pedley, Jun 2009

A lovely intro to this section of the wall. Amazingly comfortable holds and great friction. Rebolted and upgraded from 23. Mantle onto the initial protruding block and head up the water groove. Name written on the rock.

FA: Mark Millar & Marc Efune, 2003

Start on a big block and climb a cruxy 4 bolts over a bulge. Continue up the bolt line to the anchors. Low in the grade.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2009

Follow the path around the corner 25m to the right of the Aapstreke chimney. Climb the small open book and skirt the overlap on the right

FA: Liz Makovini, Nov 2015

Name is painted on the rock.

Climb up an initial short blocky corner, unclipping the first bolt as you pass it to reduce rope drag. A long sling on the 2nd bolt is a good idea, too. Surmount the small roof, then pass another bulge on the right, then up some thin face to the anchors.

FA: Wes Makovini, Sep 2015

This route starts at the base of a huge, well established two-stemmed tree. Climb the layback under a small roof, using the finger 24 crack to step up and left onto the ledge. Then onto the face with fun climbing to chains.

FA: Gary Lowther, 2003

Start up obvious diagonal crack tending right through overlaps.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

Start under a big roof. Head right, then into small open book, following the thin crack to chains.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

Climb into a small roof, when standing on it, traverse out right and then up to face climbing.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

5m right of the previous climb, starting on a slab. Climb out right at the small roof and onto the face for another 20m.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

Start 18m left of Malaria at an undercut base between some trees under the obvious roof crack in the sky. Climb the face up to a small stance under a left-leaning corner. Climb the corner till forced to the arete out right. Climb face till stance under the roof. Traverse left into roof crack and up.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

Starts in the back of a little gulley, behind a free standing pillar, left of ROC RALLY.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006

Starts halfway up a pillar on a stance. At the third bolt, climb over onto the main wall.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006

Takes the groove just left of ROC RALLY. Consensus seems to have brought this climb down to 22 from 24!

FA: Ed February & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

A short route 20m left of FUG.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006


First time here? is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question


Check out what is happening in Malaria Area.