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Description

Located directly below Mount Jellore lookout. Main wall hosts all of the fully bolted routes at Mount Gibraltar, and the highest concentration of classics at the crag. The rap below Jellore lookout deposits you here.

Routes

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Grade Route

Thin crack on left wall of main corner.

FA: M.Law & S.Butler, 1987

Slab 10m left of Slow Twitch corner. 4 BRs.

Set by Michael Law

FA: Patrick Burr, 2012

Slab 6m left of Slow Twich corner. Avoid corner at start (ants!), stay left on slab. 6 bolts.

FA: Vanessa Peterson, 2012

Start below obvious corner. Up slab to corner, then up corner to finish. Lower-Offs. 7 bolts.

FA: M. Law, 1988

Start as for Slow Twitch, then continue up corner to top. The line of the cliff. tenuous and weird

FA: M. Law, 1988

Links Slow Twitch into the top pitch of Sluj Gulpa past 1 additional bolt and a techy boulder-problem to create a 38m mega pitch from the ground. The best pitch at Mount Gibraltar?

Start up Slow Twitch, after clipping the last bolt (before the final desperate mantle) traverse up and rightwards towards the NEW bolt, keeping fairly high (you shouldn't be touching those Orchids) to join Sluj Gulpa P3 after it's traverse (where the climb begins to head up the flake/corner systems. Follow this to the top.

A 60m rope will NOT lower back to the ground from the anchors. HOWEVER, if you are working this route, you CAN lower to the ground from the LAST BOLT with a 60m rope.

FA: Paul Thomson, 2015

CLOSED PROJECT - MIKL. The line of bolts straight up the face between the Slow Twitch Corner and the obvious line of Sluj Gulpa.

Set by Mike Law

CLOSED PROJECT - MIKL. The malevolent Chimney between the Slow Twitch corner, and the obvious line of Sluj Gulpa.

Set by Mike Law

6m right of Slow Twitch corner.

  1. Up corner to diagonal crack. Right along crack to belay. 4 bolts.

  2. Right to BR, then up and left past 4 more bolts.

  3. Up to flake, then continue up to top. 6 bolts.

FA: Mike Law, Geg Child, Greg Moore & Giles Bradbury, 1988

Start approx 30m right of Slow Twitch, around corner. Short, curving corner.

FA: A. Prehn, 1979

The base of the following routes are more directly accessed by walking down the left side of the lookout. Be careful when it's damp and slippery. A fixed rope from the top of Big Bird leads to an abseil point above route 14 corner. 50m to the deck from here. There is a intermediate abseil point 20m down (belay for Monsterpiece Theatre).

FA: J. Bell, G. & G. Williamson, 1996

Start left of Big Bird at detached block.

  1. 30m (19) Up crack (optional large cam or sling) to ledge, move left to corner clip fixed hanger. Tough move off ledge to slab following fixed hangers to steep overlap. Tricky moves up through corner (longer sling on bolt). Bolt on top of lip and easily up to chains.

  2. 20m (19) Up line of fixed hangers. Belay directly above (2 fixed hangers on wall), or at rap station.

FA: Stephen Varney, 2017

Up corner past 2 carrots to pod in corner, and up to rap station.

FA: Unknown

(Please remove the red tag if you climb this) Climbs up and left through the corner above the 1st belay on Big Bird.

  1. Climb the first pitch of Big Bird.

  2. Climbs from the 1st belay on Big Bird straight up through corner system past two bolts. Belay on cams below the roof.

  3. Out right escaping the roof on the obvious finger crack flake. Pull the lip and head right to belay on the slab as for Big Bird.

  4. Climbs the 'beak' direct. head down onto the exposed fridge slab and then up onto the beak. Belay as for Big Bird. Two fixed hangers, then rings as for Big Bird.

Can be climbed as an alternate pitch to the final pitch of Big Bird. It's a little harder and a lot scarier. Seconds beware of the potential for a big swing. Maybe clean the second draw after mantling (you'll see). 2 fixed hangers on the left arete of the beak.

FA: James Bultitude, 2014

Start at short crack with Ubolts abown 80M R of the big corner, below obvious steep layback corner.

  1. 15m 17 Up easy slab to groove and crack, then up and right to belay beneath steep layback corner.

  2. 40m 20 Up steep layback corner, which fades out to slab and crack. Step right past bolt, then hard, thin move through bulge to slab and belay.

3.20 19 Left to "beak" feature. Up onto beak (with some difficulty), then up easily to single bolt-belay. (you can bridge off the tree to clip 2nd bolt)

Scramble up and left to lookout.

FA: Gareth Downey & Mikl Law, 2012

Start 15m right of Offal Dredger, 6m right of Big Bird. Climb rib right of obvious corner.

  1. Up to corner and belay at ledge (gear).

  2. Right and around arete, up slab. At 4th bolt head up right to ridge, and back left to tree.

  3. Up cracks to easy ground.

FA: Mike Law & G.Eggins, 1986

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