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Nagasaki Mostly Sport climbing 12 routes in crag

12
SA
1214161820

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

Good range of fun lines ranging from 12-21. Belayers beware! NB: Plenty loose rock! Climbers check bolts before clipping!

Access issues inherited from Radioactive

This area used to be closed to climbing - please treat it and the land owners with respect to ensure we as climbers continue to have access.

Enter at the Africaland hiking venue and pay R80 entrance PP

Do not park close to the hiking trails as the owners would like to keep the hikers experience pure. Park near an abandoned house when going down the second left after entering the gate and walk to the crags.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Approach

As for Hiroshima, but follow the good path for 100m more, then around a corner heading rightward. You are now just above the river bank. Follow this for a 100m where you will see the crag on your right.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
14 ★★★ Magglet runs in Takkies Sport 8

Start around the arête from VISIONS OF NUCLEAR DOOM below a roof 5m up. Stem the recess, move left through the break, and then climb the pleasant face above to chains.

FA: Peter Adrian BB: Peter Adrian & Roland Magg

2
12 ★★ Visions of Nuclear Doom Sport 14m, 8

Starts 5m right of MAGGLET RUNS IN TAKKIES. This is the only climb at the crag to have its name written on the rock at the base of the route. Climb the crack just right of the arête. A little steep at the top – go for it!

FA: Diane Avranitakis BB: Peter Adrian

3
15 ★ Not for Chicks Sport 9

5m right of VISIONS OF NUCLEAR DOOM, in the corner where the block juts out from the main crag. Crank your way to the top of the face, when it feels like grade 19, exit left.

FA: Marc Echstein BB: Peter Adrian & Nicholas Grech-Cumbo

4
13 ★ Easy Peasy Proton Pite Trad

The first route on the main face, next to NOT FOR CHICKS. Start in the corner, and climb a series of ledges to a wide recess, with a crack in the middle. Climb the crack to the top with tree belay. Beware of loose rocks at the top.

FA: Peter Adrian & Nicholas Grech-Cumbo

5
19 ★ Ignore the First 10cm Sport 10

Clips the first bolt of GREY IMPORTS then moves left up the face, up through two overhangs, and finishes on easier rock at the top. The name refers to the first 10cm of glue that flows from the Fischer glue gun, which leads to boltless holes near the top.

FA: Peter Holdt BB: Peter Adrian & Roland Magg

6
17 ★ Grey Imports Sport 25m, 12

Climbs a grey face a few meters left of NO ROPE AS LONG AS TIME, then move right, through a break, onto easier rock.

FA: Roland Magg

7
19 No Rope as Long as Time Sport 6

Climbs a crack system about 3m left of the PARTICLE ACCELERATOR chimney.

FA: Roland Magg

8
14 ★★★ Particle Accelerator Trad

In the middle of the crag is an obvious chimney, climb this for 30m to a stance below a medium sized tree at the top of the crag.

FA: Rory Lowther & Rance McIntyre, 2003

9
16 ★★ Illuminati Sport 20m, 9

Climbs the crack line 2m right of the PARTICLE ACCELERATOR chimney.

FA: Roland Magg

10
21 ★★ Fabricated Emotions Sport 10

Start up a thin face with technical climbing up a shallow break. Pull through the triangular roof above on the right and climb to top.

FA: Roland Magg

11
20 ★★ Danger of Implosion Sport 9

Starts 2m left of SLAVE TO THE WEST. Thin face moves take you past the first 4 bolts to reach a good ledge. Climb the face right of the tree and then pull through the roof on the right hand side of the arête.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

12
19 ★★ Slave to the West Sport 9

Start 5m left of a small left facing corner at ground level. Climb the orange face above to the ledge. Continue up steep rock to the top.

FA: Roland Magg

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