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Description

The main wall and the first reached when you get to the bottom of the cliff. Nice white and orange rock with a squillion ringbolts. The start of all routes are quite hard on very polished white rock.

Access issues inherited from Cinderella Crag

None… Until they lock the fire road gate then expect a long walk or bike ride. Keep a low profile when drilling, there are some people lurking around the fire trails on the weekends. Well maintained fire trail access is fine with a 2WD with good clearance

Approach

At the base of the descent gully.

Descent notes

All routes have lower-offs.

Ethic inherited from Cinderella Crag

Ring bolted sport routes with lower offs

Routes

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Grade Route

Up funky corner via steep moves. Sorta tricky for 19 when you don't know the moves.

Set by Matt Tranter

FFA: Matt Tranter, 2013

Up prow

Set by Matt Tranter

Set by Matt Tranter, 2013

Up white stuff to punchy crux, well actually tricky down low as well

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2013

First large rock cairn. Up toughish start to a series of stepped overlaps. Anchors halfway up wall at large horizontal break.

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2013

Django extension to the top of the cliff on perfect orange stone. Straight up from the anchors on D, then move leftwards around the blunt arete to anchors under the roof.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2013

Start on the second large rock cairn. Stick clip first bolt (if you are scared, useless or don't feel like an honest challenge) for bouldery start. Up for two bolts, clip high third bolt, then drop down and traverse hard right into Agent Orange for a couple of moves then back left to 4th bolt. Tricky move up to small ledge on the left - then up nice wall for a bolt then traverse left into mini corner feature to rap anchors.

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2013

The logical (and better?) finish to Temple of Doom straight up the longest section of orange rock. Climb TD for 7 bolts then head straight up trending slightly right rather than traversing off left. Finish through bulge to anchors on small ledge under large roof.

FA: Neil Monteith & Veronica Trainor, 2014

Start up AO and pop up over the break and veer up and left. Heave up over the final bulge to anchors up high under the final roof.

Set by Jason Lammers, 2014

One of the best routes here. Starts on the third large rock cairn. The usual bouldery start then easier ground to white rooflet. Tricky over this then beautiful waves of orange to low set of anchors. Mantle above optional!

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2014

Bit of move at the 2nd bolt, then long cruise to the top of the cliff. Still needs a bit of TLC to get an extra star

Set by Tom Farrell

FA: Tom Farrell, 2014

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