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Lighthouse Wall All Trad climbing 15 routes in crag

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 9
15
AU
1315171921

Seasonality

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Description

This neat wall lies directly below the lighthouse. Approach via abseil (35m) to the broad platform at its base. Take care at the top of the routes here as most finish on vegetated ledges where belays are tricky to arrange. The vegetation consists mainly of succulent ground covers. Treading on these in friction boots can be very dangerous.

Description from “The Adelaide Hills, A Rock Climber’s Guide” by Nick Neagle

Access issues

Watch out for big waves.

Approach

A neat wall due east of the lighthouse. Abseil 35m to the broad ledge at its base and watch out for big waves.

Description from 'Rockclimbing around Adelaide' by Paul Badenoch and Luke Adams

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 unknown Trad 25m
2
19 ★ Finger in Seagull, Trad 30m
3
22 ★ Phallic Broccoli Trad 30m
4
14 ★★ Spudmatic Trad 23m
5
16 ★ To Kick a Porcupine Trad 22m
6
19 ★ Lenin on the Lamppost Trad 23m

The main diagonal crack on the wall L of Midnight Sun. If the start is wet, climb a crack parallel to and just R of the main line to a stance at 5m. Gain the crack proper and follow it all the way.

FA: David Cox, 1993

7
13 Midnight Sun Trad 29m

The steep corner at the L end of the wall to a pleasant wide crack and direct finish. Puts value back in the grade.

FA: Colin Reece, Mike Round & Martin Bell, 1972

8
19 Attila the Nun Trad 28m

Start R of Midnight Sun but make a rising traverse R to overlaps. Continue up to the thin crack 3m R of Midnight Sun.

FA: Pete Rigby, 1994

9
19 ★★ Thunder Road Trad 28m

Begin 10m R of Midnight Sun, just L of a square cut block. Take the crack to the roof and pull through on the R to a stance. Step R and follow the L leaning flared crack to easier ground.

FA: Ryan Robertson & Glen Hordacre, 1987

10
15 Glissading Penguins Trad 26m

Start 2m L of Lamplighter. Up the twin cracks and continue in line to the short crooked jam crack.Step R, move up then L along the ramp a bit and finish up the vague crack,

FFA: David Chenery & Paul Gray, 1987

11
14 The Cad Trad 26m

Glissading Penguins into Pavements from Shanghai. From above the tiny corner at the end of the ramp, climb diagonally R via a vegetated ledge to finish up a V corner.

FA: Erik Lock, Caroline Lock & Lee Heard, 1997

12
13 ★ Pavement from Shanghai Trad 26m

Up Lamplighter 's corner then L along the ramp to finish as for Thunder Road.

FA: Dave Trehearne & Peter Kraehenbuehl, 1987

13
14 ★★★ Lamplighter Trad 26m

The R facing corner in the middle of the wall. When it ends, step R and continue up the narrow crack. Finish with care up R across vegetated ledges.

FA: Colin Reece, Mike Round & Martin Bell, 1972

FFA: Glen Hordacre, 1987

14
15 Fush and Chups Trad 22m

Start at the niche 7m R of Lamplighter and climb the L leaning crack to a ledge. Move L and finish up the slanting cracks.

FA: Paul Gray & Dave Chenery, 1994

15
16 Made in England Trad 20m

The parallel cracks 2m R of Fush and Chups to a ledge. Continue up the L crack.

FA: Ed Darling, 1994

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14 ★★★ Lamplighter

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Wed 19 Apr
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