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Description:©

A Bungonia mega-route.

Start at the large R-facing flakes in the chasm. 10m right of Evolution, and a few metres left of Andrew's Arete / left and round the corner from Siblings.

Gear: single set of nuts; #0.3 Camalot (or green Alien or #1 Mastercam) to #3 Camalot, (optional: doubles to #1 Camalot); 120cm sling; several 60cm slings; 15 or so quickdraws.

  1. 20m 22. Smashing warm-up. Overhanging layback flakes up to hard moves then easy slab to DBB. 5 bolts plus threads and gear. An easier but lower quality varient traverses in from the left on the huge flake.

  2. 35m 23. Slabby pitch with hard crux. Shares first 5m of pitch with Jumpmaster. After second bolt, follow rightwards branch of bolts. At the top of pitch, head for the large tree atop the 2m vertical step (bit of loose rock here). DBB behind the large tree. 10 bolts plus gear.

  3. 20m 19. Start 3m right of the belay. Boulder the overhang past two bolts. Traverse right above the bolt to a hollow crack with large flakes and threads (shared with 'Reason for Man'). Straight up to DBB on ledge. 2 bolts, gear including several threads.

  4. 28m 22. Excellent pumpy climbing. Follow line of spaced bolts with good gear in between (take it all for this pitch). 8ish bolts

  5. 35m 24. Cool, tricky climbing straight off the belay then step right to gain incipient crack and gear. Up to a section of easy choss (120cm thread in small cave). Traverse right on fantastic pockets (save #3 camalot) till the climbing eases. Up to DBB on the right edge of the huge cave (beware of loose scree in cave). 7 bolts and gear.

  6. 25m 22. Good pitch on red rock. From the right edge of the cave traverse right a couple of metres then wander up cracks and face to semi-hanging DBB on the left. Lots of bolts and gear.

  7. 30m 25. Steep, pumpy pitch with a couple of good rests. Step left from the belay then follow the bolts into the stratosphere. 11 bolts plus a couple of nuts and finger-sized cams.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Damian Jovanovic, Oliver Story, Chris Ling, Carl Godfrey, Nick Herrald & Sarah Truscott, 2015

Location:  

Located in South Wall - Main approx:
Lat/Long: -34.796539,150.017406

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

22, 23, 19, 22, 24, 22, 25 Community registered grade
22, 23, 19, 23, 24, 23, 26 *** Canberra Climbers' Association Guide

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 100%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

challenging crux sustained tough hard beautiful fun cool good brilliant amazing enjoyable awesome fall runout tricky steep rest reachy interesting hands technical face jugs traverse

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