★★ The Beauty & the Beast 6b

3rd pitch is the beauty, 1st pitch is the beast. The second pitch just connects the two. The first pitch is shared with 'Big Wave'.

1. Start with a couple of fun, overhanging moves out the left side of the cave, then easier climbing on sharp rock up the buttress. Take the right of the two anchors. 7 titanium bolts.

2. Go up and sightly right - don't be lured by other bolts going further right. 9 titanium bolt.

3. This pitch is fun and follows bolts up into a small ledge at a small cave. 12 titanium bolts.

4. In 2006, Drew Spaulding and Adam Weiner established a 4th pitch, but it is not well equipped without trad gear. Climb up into the corner on gear, threads and a few bolts. Then tunnel up right and under the stalactite umbrella up to the bolted anchor (this pitch needs re-bolting). A wild ride!

From the top of P3, it is also possible to traverse out left, wiggle through a hole in the cave, and finish up on the last pitch of 'Big Wave'. This finish slightly raises the grade, but dramatically increases the fun.

Descend by rapping down three times from the anchor of P3 with a 60m rope.