On the buttress in front of face. First pitch excellent rock and gear, 2nd pitch not so good. Find lowest major roofs on front (N) side of Cox's Castle. Just L of roof is attractive corner. Possibly cairned.
40m. Line to good ledge.
60m. Easy, with alternatives possible. L up juggy crack for 4m or so. Wander up towards big corner high above. Up corner to steep section with slightly schist-y rock. R for 3m, then up easily. Finish up R-facing corner.
To descend, abseil 15m to top of arches (it's a dangerous grade 15 downclimb otherwise). Then sidle R to top of the Arches (the 50m wall below Solomon’s Sanctuary) and descend by 50m abseil.
22 Jan 1992 | First ascent: Doug Fife & Peter Steane |
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17 | Assigned grade |
17** | ★★Vanessa Wills |
Trad, but some bolts exist where trad is not possible.
Frenchmans Cap is in The Franklin - Gordon Wild Rivers National Park and subject to the Tasmanian Wilderness Heritage Area Management Plan. Climbing is addressed on pages 143-14 of the plan. Some of the presceriptions related to climbing are:
• The area will be predominantly maintained as a traditional climbing area. • The establishment or maintenance of routes that are protected primarily or exclusively using fixed anchors (i.e. ‘sport’ climbs) is generally prohibited. • Existing routes in the 2013 minor boundary extension that use fixed anchors may be maintained. New routes may be established in existing locations where fixed anchors are utilised subject to approval by PWS. • Based on historical precedence, the occasional limited installation (or replacement) of permanent anchors at Mt Geryon, The Acropolis, Frenchmans Cap and Mt Anne is permitted. • Written authority must be obtained from the PWS before using power-driven equipment to install or replace any permanent anchor in the TWWHA.
Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9780646841946
Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.
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