Nice short route at left end of the magnificent East Face of East Dome. Pleasant climbing in cracks and good rock with satisfactory protection. Descent by abseil on the route, take care ropes are jamming.
P1: Start the rip left of the little cave. 2-bolt-belay at ledge or combine with next pitch.
P2: Follow the corner crack sytem. Sling belay left of the ledge (for abseiling) or more comfortable gear belay at the ledge.
P3: Follow the crack, sling belay.
P4: Crux pitch, hard for 5+. Sling belay.
P5: Left leaning corner to the end.
6 May 1986 | First ascent: Claude Remy & Yves Remy |
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5-,5+,5,5+,5 | Assigned grade |
★★Victor | |
5+ | Joey Friedmann |
Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.
Overall quality 56 from 3 ratings.
Author(s): Thierry Souchard
Date: 2017
ISBN: 9782952638876
A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.
Author(s): Thierry Souchard
Date: 2017
This digital guidebook presents a selection of 26 multi-pitch routes taken from the book Rock around the World. Almost all of the routes presented are trad. Of course, this style of climbing on trad gear requires us to be modest about route choices, but do not fear, the rock lends itself well to gear placements, especially along its beautiful, long crack systems. Other equally interesting routes, more in a mountaineering style, focus on route-finding rather than pure difficulty. These follow more or less along the lines of the famous Bedouin routes. These ‘extreme adventure treks’ discovered by the locals are the most aesthetic way, and undoubtedly the only true way, to explore the area. Some climbing routes included in this selection use Bedouin routes as descents, and two Bedouin routes that ascend to the summit of Jebel Rum are described in detail. Trad 6a/6b grade is required and a good crack climbing experience Routes are drawn on zoomable photos. The content of the guidebook is detailed in the OmegaRoc app.
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