Crag Score Rating

theCrag.com is a project to build a global index of climbs as an online resource for rock climbers. Rock climbers of all standards use the site for pre and post trip planning. Read the FAQ to understand the goals and vision of the site. If you only learn about two features on the site they should be 'Quickfind' and 'Crag Planner'. If you do not know how to use these then ask one of your climbing friends or send us an email. Quickfind allows you to find climbs by grade (any grading system), height and/or stars at any area in the index (eg all starred 5.10a climbs in Yosemite). Crag Planner is the rock climbers trip planning tool, typically used in conjunction with Quickfind. It lets you build personal tailored climb lists on a single interactive PDF page that you can print and take to a crag. (eg single page PDF of starred 5.10a climbs in Yosemite).

Crag Score Rating   Crag Score was initially developed by www.thecrag.com as an objective way of assessing a climber's ability relative to the climbing community as a whole. A statistically derived base metric was created to score the relative difficulty of the climb (see original article on Crag Score).   Intentionally the base Crag Score metric had no concept of the style of ascent, how long ago the ascent was done or how many times the climb had been done. Many climbers have been asking for another score which takes into account these factors. Basically members want a higher score for an onsight then a top rope.   We will continue to provide the Crag Score base value (now called Crag Score Base) on the site because of the value it provides in it's own right. We are now also providing another score, called Crag Score Rating, which takes into account: The style of the ascent; How long ago the ascent was made; and How many previous ascents you have made of the climb. While the calculation of the Crag Score Base figure is objective and statistically based, the calculation of Crag Score Rating is abitary. For this reason we are publishing the calculation methodology. We welcome any comments or feedback that will help us improve this calculation in the future.   Crag Score Rating = Crag Score Base * Ascent Style Adjustment * Ascent Age Adjustment * Repeat Ascent Adjustment   Ascent Style Adjustment   Ascent Style Adjustment is a multiplier given by Table 1. If the ascent style is not in the table then the multiplier is 0.   Ascent Style Factor Tick 0.9 First Ascent 1.0 Solo 1.0 Onsight 1.4 Flash 1.0 Redpoint 1.0 Pinkpoint 1.0 Dog 0.2 Second Clean 0.5 Second with Rest 0.2 Top Rope Clean 0.5 Top Rope with Rest 0.2 Aid 1.0 Table 1: Ascent Style Adjustment Factor   Ascent Age Adjustment   Ascent Age Adjustment is calculated by reducing the value by 50% for every year since the ascent date. For example if the base value was 8, then an ascent done within the last year will have a modifier of 1 giving it a final value of 8, an ascent done one year ago will have a modifier of 0.5 giving it a final value of 4, and an ascent done two years ago will have a modifier of 0.25 giving it a final value of 2.   Repeat Ascent Adjustment   Repeat Ascent Adjustment is calculated by reducing the value by 80% for each subsequent ascent of a particular climb. For example if the base value was 10 then the first ascent would have a final value of 10, the second 8, the third 6.4 and so on.     Simon Dale Copyright thecrag.com