Region Guide for Mexico

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Mexico 711 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport,? and other styles

Long/Lat: -103.089598, 23.788387

1.1. El Potrero Chico 567 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.498125, 25.938995

Unique Features And Strengths:

Over 500 routes. Lots of multi-pitch sport. Lots of moderate (sub-5.11) sport. Short approaches. Nearby cheap accomodations and camping. Can stay a week, and not need a car.

Description:

Just under an hour northwest of Monterrey, Mexico. This area, just outside the small town of Hidalgo, can be driven to from the US border or you can fly into Monterrey and take a taxi for about $75. You have to see the pictures to understand how impressive the rock is here, dozens of climbing sections - both shade and sunny sides.

The major climbing areas and sections are generally described left right, starting on the east (left) side of the Potrero as one normally approaches it, and as seperated by the road that runs into the Potrero. This lists from first approached to last on the left side, and reverses it from the (detached) spires on the west (right) side and the farthest in to closest to front, then along the outside (front) face to the right.

Access Issues:

Most of the climbing here is in a 'State' Park, but there is no fee. There are a few campsites and rooms available just down the road (i.e. 10 minute walk) from the park entrance.

Approach:

Walk about 10 minutes up the road from the camping areas, then approaches get more specific for various cliffs within/around the Potrero.

1.1.1. Fitness Canyon 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

This section is outside the Potrero proper, on the front wall, east-side.

Approach:

Drive up the mine road to the end, then hike from the end of the parking lot.

1.1.2. Canon de los Lobos 33 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

The first deep canyon on the left (east) side as you enter the Potrero.

1.1.3. El Fin De Semana 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:

The 2nd canyon on the left side as you enter the Potrero, it is much shallower than the Los Lobos canyon on its left or Estrellas canyon to its right.

1.1.4. Las Estrellas 71 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:

The Estrellas canyon is the 2nd deep canyon on the left (east) side of the Potrero as you enter.

1.1.5. Mini Super 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

A small south-facing wall just across the road from the "Scrutinizer" wall. A good introductory set of single-pitch climbs.

1.1.6. TNT Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

Dark vegetated wall up and right of the "Mini Super" wall.

1.1.7. The Vatican 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport,Trad and ?

Description:

This is the high hanging canyon across from the tin pavilion and above the wave.

Approach:

Climb "Argos", or the first pitch of "Kotu Mundi" or "Sandra" in "The Conundrums".

1.1.8. The Conundrums 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport,Trad and ?

Description:

This area is directly above "The Wave".

1.1.9. The Wave 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

The obvious wave-shaped formation directly across from the tin pavilion.

Some pitches are long -- be careful lowering.

1.1.10. Lower Sense of Religion 58 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:

This is the large expanse of rock facing southwards into the Potrero on the east-side. It starts out just above the aroyo, and extends up to obvious bend i the wall characterized by a steep orange bulge topped by a gray bulb -- or from the road to about 400m up the wall.

1.1.11. Upper Sense of Religion 43 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:

This is the upper section of the wall, hike farther up and in.

1.1.12. The Spires 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:

The obvious pair of spires on the right side, past the cattle gate.

Approach:

Walk past the cattle gate to hobo camp, then follow the blue trail up to the right towards the Outrage wall, and turn left at the red trail.

1.1.13. The Dihedrals 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

The Dihedrals are the obvious set of dihedrals up and left of "The Outrage Wall". Despite the name, lots of crack climbing.

Approach:

Take the trail up towards the spires, and go up and over the saddle above the spires, then continue upwards

1.1.14. The Surf Bowl 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

The shallow cave right of "The Dihedrals", high up on the wall behind "The Spires".

Approach:

Take the trail up towards the spires, and go up and over the saddle above the spires, then continue upwards.

1.1.15. Time Wave Buttress 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

Vegetated buttress between "The Surf Bowl" and "The Outrage Wall".

1.1.16. The Outrage Wall 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport,?

Description:

The black and white streaked orange overhanging wall on the inside of the Potrero, on the west side.

1.1.17. The Jungle Wall 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:

This cliff is one of the easiest to find -- it is the big vegetated slab behind the tin pavilion.

Several of EPC's classic multi-pitch go up this wall.

Approach:

Step over the aqueduct and walk past the (mostly) abandoned picnic area.

1.1.18. The Central Scrutinizer 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:

This is the large clean buttress on your right after you pass the Pool Area and fenced off base of "The Virgin Canyon". It runs until the big tree against the wall on the aqueduct.

Approach:

Step off the road, over the aqueduct. You could, if you had actually driven to EPC (or up to the Potrero from camp) actually belay most of these routes from your car.

1.1.19. The Virgin Canyon 85 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:

This is the first deep canyon on the right as you walk into the park, just past the swimming pools.

Walls are ordered left-right along the canyon, when facing the side of the canyon that wall is on. (That is, clockwise around the canyon, starting with the first wall on the lowest point of the left (north-facing) side of the canyon.

Due to the easy approach (up stairs), the abundance of good climbs, and the tendency to be shaded, the lower walls of the Virgin canyon are very popular, and can be quite busy on weekend days as locals come out to climb them.

Approach:

Enter the pools and walk up the stairs. Or, walk to the left side of the canyon and step up around the edge of the chain link fence and up the path.

If walking up the stairs, you will hit the north wall of the canyon at "Cat Wall" when you first get to a rock wall. If you don't enter at the pools, but by cutting aorund the end of the fence, you'll be at the "Surf Board" wall.

1.1.20. Wonder Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:

This is the wall across the back of the picnic area above the pools, with BBQs along its base. It is the first wall along to the right along the front-side of the Potrero.

Be very careful on this wall, especially on the upper pitches of any mulit-pitch routes, when the pools and picnic/BBQ area is busy. Any rock fall could hurt locals, including children, who will not be looking for or expecting rock fall. (In fact, it is probably best to not climb anything multi-pitch on this wall if the pools and picnicing is at all busy.)

Approach:

Walk up past the pools and BBQs to the obvious wall.

1.1.21. Front Side 52 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport,Boulder and other styles

Description:

This is the beautiful main wall that you see from the campgrounds, right of the narrow opening into the Potrero proper. The tallest peak, approximately in the centre, is "El Toro".

As you look at it, the leftmost silhouetted ridge is the route of "Monster Truck". Closer than this, and running lower than it for most of the climb is a 2nd ridge that goes up to the central (El Toro) peak -- that is "The Scariest Ride in the Park".

Approach:

Varies from sector to sector.

1.1.22. Tarahumara Pass 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

A saddle in the rock west (right when facing the Potrero) of "Buzz Rock".

1.1.23. Buzz Rock 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

Buzz Rock is the small, dome-shaped outcrop located north of El Toro.

1.1.24. El Bobo 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport,Trad

Description:

This is the seperate "dunce cap" shaped spire in front of the Potrero proper, on the right side of the road.

Not many routes, not very good rock, and a longish approach leave this not being climbed very often.

1.2. Culo Del Gato 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport

Description:

This is about 30 minutes away from "El Potrero Chico", on a different formation. Also lots of room for development.

1.2.1. Crescent Moon Buttress 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

Technically this crag is not part of Culo de Gato, but is another buttress in the same formation.

1.3. El Salto 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.3.1. The Cave 9 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.3.2. Animas Wall 20 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4. La Huasteca 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.1. Cazuelas 17 routes in Area

Summary:

1.4.2. Navajas 21 routes in Area

Summary:

1.4.3. Zona Extrema 4 routes in Area

Summary:

1.4.4. Las Rejas 0 routes in Area

1.4.5. Los Perros 0 routes in Area

1.4.6. La Lulu 0 routes in Area

1.4.7. Los Gatos 0 routes in Area

1.4.8. Medicos 0 routes in Area

1.4.9. Guitarritas 0 routes in Area

1.4.10. La Lechuza 0 routes in Area

1.5. El Gigante 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Aid,Alpine

1.6. Mexico City 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

Mexico City is a valley located in central Mexico at an altitude of about 2400 m bove sea level. It is surrounded by mountains. Some noteworthy climbing areas that are in the metropolitan area of this city include: Los Dinamos, La UNAM, La Marquesa, among others.

1.6.1. La UNAM 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Description:

Ciudad Universitaria has a few areas for bouldering, trad, and sport climbing made up of volcanic rock from "El Xitle" volcano. All of them are in urban areas. Please contribute to this if you have the knowledge, as I only posted what I am sure (or think I'm sure) of. Lots of climbs still yet to be posted!

1.7. Jilotepec 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport

1.7.1. Comite de Bienvenida 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Unique Features And Strengths:

Two easy climbs there so far, one of the easiest crags in Jilo...

Description:

Gigantic Boulder, the first you see when going up the steps after the carpark.

Access Issues:

Park in the carpark, look for the steps. On RHS, there are the two big boulders, one route on each so far...

Approach:

See "access".

Where To Stay:

You can camp wherever you see fit.

Ethic:

No chipping, no breaking holds, no setting up TR on the anchors (only on your gear), no littering, no keeping draws up for later if not using for a long time.

1.7.2. Megasesino y Capilla 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Unique Features And Strengths:

2 faces, going up the steps past the chapel, there is Capilla and then Megasesino.

Description:

See "unique features and strengths".

Access Issues:

See "unique features and strengths".

Approach:

See "unique features and strengths".

Where To Stay:

Camp wherever you see fit.

Ethic:

No chipping, no breaking holds, no setting up TR on the anchors (only on your gear), no littering, no keeping draws up for later if not using for a long time.

1.7.3. Poste 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Unique Features And Strengths:

Great Jilo rock.

Description:

Easy climbs in a hard belay setting.

Access Issues:

Opposite side of the canyon, there is this uphill slope LHS of the large rock faces in front of the car park. Go up this slope past "El Pilar", and when you find on your LHS a big double boulder with three trees in it, that's Poste.

Approach:

See "Access".

Where To Stay:

Camp wherever you see fit.

Ethic:

No chipping, no breaking holds, no setting up TR on the anchors (only on your gear), no littering, no keeping draws up for later if not using for a long time.

1.8. Aculco 0 routes in Crag

1.9. Catedral 0 routes in Crag

1.10. Ajusco 0 routes in Crag

1.11. Meztitla 0 routes in Crag

1.12. La Muela 0 routes in Crag

1.13. El Arenal 0 routes in Crag

1.14. Bernal, Qro. 0 routes in Crag

1.15. Tutuaca 0 routes in Crag

1.16. Pericos (valsequillo, puebla) 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.17. Cerro Bola 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.18. Cumbres de Majalca Chih 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown