Region Guide for New South Wales and ACT

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. New South Wales and ACT 17,883 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 147.126996, -32.174898

1.1. Northern Rivers 93 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 153.073030, -28.963259

1.1.1. Urbenville 56 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 152.570837, -28.477142

1.1.2. Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.255729, -28.394794

1.1.3. Tweed Valley 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.329274, -28.286091

1.1.4. Old Lismore Quarry 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.5. Nimbin Rock 0 routes in Area

1.1.6. Lillian Rock 0 routes in Area

1.1.7. Wanganui Gorge 0 routes in Area

1.1.8. Mount Doughboy 13 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.324141, -28.512089

1.1.9. Edinburgh Castle 0 routes in Area

1.1.10. Boonoo Boonoo Falls 3 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Trad

Description:© (gremlin)

Pronounced Bunna Boonoo.

1.2. Mid North Coast 328 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.568243, -31.149465

1.2.1. Coffs Harbour 328 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 153.016657, -30.188363

Unique Features And Strengths:

The climbing is located near the town of Glenreagh, 45 mins North West of Coffs. There is an extensive sandstone escarpment which offers about 300 routes at 10 crags

Where To Stay:

If Your camping, the best place is above the wonderlands crag.

Ethic:

mixed. There is some old school routes and some newer sport routes (plus some old sport routes) so you get a bit of everything. One things is certain you need to bring some gear for anchors as plenty of the older routes wont have lower offs (even some of the sport routes!)

1.3. Hunter Valley 2,061 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.365336, -32.420030

Description:

This region covers from swansea to the south, Bulahdelah to the north and Watagans to the west. It also covers the Port Stephens region. The Watagans is made up of numerous sandstone cliffs in the National park. Port Stephens off some fantastic sea cliff climbing on quality granite like rock. Bulahdelah is made up of an Alum rock. This rock is very stong and lends itself to some interesting featured climbing, induding the famous cave. For more information see the Hunter Valley Rockclimbing guidebook.

1.3.1. Watagans 432 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 151.438190, -32.975926

Description:

The watagans is made up of sandstone cliffs. West of the F3 freeway this is a national park the cover quite a large area and has numerous cliff inside the NP. The rock can be a little conglomerate in places but if you stick to the worn classic you should enjoy.

Monkey Face is the main area. It is a good place for beginners and is easy to set top ropes. It is often used by the scouts and Newcastle Mountaineering club.

1.3.2. Port Stephens 275 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.113287, -32.744061

Unique Features And Strengths:

Port Stephens climbing is on fine seaside granite. Most areas require trad gear but there are a few smaller sport crags thrown in. It is a great place to spend a summers day go for a climb and cool off with a swim. Port Stephens also offers a number of DWS crags.

1.3.3. Bulahdelah 236 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.207977, -32.417630

1.3.4. Gloucester Buckets 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.923926, -32.019539

1.3.5. Glenrock Lagoon 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.726310, -32.959565

Unique Features And Strengths:

Newcastles only local suburban crag.

Description:

All bolted sport routes. Rock can be a little fragile but worth the vist if you live local and want to get out on the rock without driving 45mins north.

Access Issues:

Located in glenrock state recreational area, inbetween the suburbs of Mereweather and Kahibah/Charlestown.

Approach:

Park in the Burwood Rd car park,

1.3.6. City 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

1.3.7. Central Coast 1,073 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.104882, -33.281638

Description:

A Google map of most of the areas can be found here:

http://maps.google.com/maps/mm?ie=UTF8&hl=en&ll=-33.535814%2C151.308614&spn=0.003658%2C0.006652&t=h&z=17&msa=0&msid=100949765405423936796.00043830eabc8f735d095

1.4. Northern Tablelands 1,607 routes in Region

Summary:

Boulder,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.765129, -29.951277

1.4.1. Ebor Gorge 181 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.340406, -30.402480

Unique Features And Strengths:

Lots of crack and aretes

Description:©

Ebor Falls is part of Guy Fawkes River National Park. All the cliffs are in the National park as is the access to these areas and should thus be treated accordingly. Enough said!

Ebor is a township 77km east of Armidale on the Dorrigo road. The climbing area is just before the town on the Armidale side of the Guy Fawkes river on the cliffs around the falls.

The cliffs consist of short vertical basalt columns (10m - 20m) and virtually all the climbs are sustained cracks of varying size between the columns. The original climbing areas are called ‘Breakaways’ and are numbered 1 to 6 with the first being closest to the falls and the sixth being furthest from the falls.

The more recently developed cliffs have broken with tradition and been given more exotic names so that the very short ‘Dead Heroes Buttress’ is between the 4th and 5th Breakaways, ‘Solid Gold Buttress’ is directly below the left-hand end of the 4th Breakaway and ‘Pub Buttress’ and ‘Bondage Buttress’ are on the other side of the gorge.

Access Issues:©

National Park

Approach:©

Take the Dorrigo road out of Armidale until just before the township of Ebor there is a sign posted road to Ebor falls on your left. Take this road past the graveyard to the first car park (on your right); park here for access to the 1st and 2nd Breakaways, and drive further on to the main car park and picnic area for access to the 3rd - 6th Breakaways, ‘Dead Heroes Buttress’ and ‘Solid Gold Buttress’. To access ‘Pub Buttress’ and ‘Bondage Buttress’ walk across the top of the First Falls and then proceed to the gorge rim on that side of the river.

Where To Stay:©

Camping at the Ebor Falls rest area is banned but you can camp nearby at the Native Dog camping ground. To get there drive west towards Guyra for 12kms. It is part of Cathedral Rock National Park and camp fees apply. It is only an hour’s drive from Armidale so you can easily stay there. There are also an amazing variety of hotels, bed n’ breakfasts, pubs and caravan parks in Armidale.

Ethic:©

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.

History:©

Ebor holds a rather special place in the history of New England climbing. Due to its pleasant nature, easy access and short well protected climbs it has been an ideal training area where many Armidale climbers have ‘pushed their grades and tested themselves on such classics as ‘Rooflet’ 19, ‘Backdoor Man’ 19, ‘Sleight of Hand’ 19, and ‘Luce’ 21, and as little as about 6 years ago an ascent of any of these test pieces signified your ‘arrival’ into the upper echelon of New England climbers. On the other hand Ebor has broken a lot of hearts. Almost everyone who has climbed there has had at least one of those days when the climbs cease to be inanimate crack lines and become vicious and spiteful beasts, hell bent on seeing you lying on your back on the ground with blood streaming out of your ears. On one such day (in May 1983) after falling off ‘Anxiety Attack’ a few times Paul Colyvan (Animal) in a fit of rage hitchhiked back to Armidale rather than spend a minute longer at the cliff waiting for everyone else to drive back.

Given the extremes of feeling for the place, which is so much a part of the character of the cliff, it is not surprising that the cliff drifts in and out of fashion from time to time. It always manages to attract a few visitors though, even in recent times, when it has been largely overlooked due to its lack of bolt protected wall climbs which are fashionable at present. Considering this lack of interest in recent years it is remarkable that some of New England’s hardest routes are at Ebor, in fact Ebor has always been well represented in the upper grades at any particular point in time and was often the scene of the first climb at a particular grade right from the time of its discovery as a climbing area.

Anyway, the story begins in April 1974, when local, Bob Killip, records the first climb at Ebor on the Third Breakaway, ‘Luce’ 17M1, a thin crack that was aided to a roof which went free. Ironically now that the route is free at 21 the roof is considered about 19 (and some even insist that the roof is the crux). Shortly after that Jill Kelman and Al Stephens also did ‘Haggis Hole’ 13, also on the third breakaway, which was the only other route recorded at Ebor that year, despite Killip’s enthusiasm for the place. In reality Killip would have been climbing near his limit on most climbs at Ebor, since 17 was the highest grade in New England at the time, and no one else was capable of climbing at that standard. So it’s not surprising that development was slow at first, however, the interest was there and it prompted New England climbers to get into crack climbing, a trend which wouldn’t change significantly for nearly 10 years.

In March the following year Killip returned to do ‘Frogwyn D’Harder’ 18 also on the third breakaway, which was New England’s first 18 (although now it is considered 19!). Before that however A1 Stephens and Rob Dixon recorded the first route on the first breakaway in February with ‘Supermouse’ M2 and went on to do a few others on the same breakaway as the year progressed, the best of which is probably ‘The Joker’ 17 led by Dixon. Dixon along with mature age novice Brian Birchall and visiting Queenslander Trevor Gynther also added the first route on the second breakaway with ‘Chunder Chimney’ 12. Also of note from 1975 was Stephens’ route ‘Sundown’ M2 which made the first use of bolts on a climb (for aid) in New England. By the end of 1975 there were still only a total of 13 routes recorded at Ebor. In 1976 Richard Curtis arrived in Armidale and he, like Killip, was keen on hard jam cracks and provided a bit of healthy and friendly competition for Killip, who had dominated Armidale’s hard climbing scene for the past few years. Curtis was particularly keen on Ebor where he added many fine new routes, but the other important thing he was to do was to provide encouragement for Brian Birchall who improved dramatically and also acquired a taste for hard jam cracks such as those found at Ebor. The two teamed up for many first ascents at Ebor and elsewhere such as Kaputar and Gara gorge, although the newly discovered Gara granite areas where neglected somewhat in 1976 for the sake of Ebor. During the year Curtis led the superb ‘Narcissus’ 19 on the First Breakaway, ‘Anxiety Attack’ 19 on the Second Breakaway, freed the Killip route ‘Luce’ 20/21 which was the first climb in new England graded above 20 (it has since been upgraded to 21). That was on the 3rd Breakaway where he also added ‘Prime Cut’ 19/20 with an aid rest, which was overlooked in the description. He also did the testy ‘Knuckleduster’ 18 which was among the first climbs on the Fourth Breakaway. Birchall led ‘Fear and Loathing’ 17 and ‘Rattlesnake’ 18 on the Second Breakaway and the classic ‘Jugular’ 19 (later downgraded to 18) which was the first route recorded on the Fifth Breakaway.

Bob Killip’s only significant contribution at Ebor in 1976 was to steal a route on the 4th breakaway which Curtis had cleaned and not had a chance to climb yet. Killip called the route ‘Rooflet’ 18 (it has since been upgraded to 19). This marked the end of the ‘friendly’ competition between Curtis and Killip. Other routes worth mentioning from 1976 are Jill Kelman’s ‘Double Trouble’ 16 on the 4th Breakaway and Phil Prior’s middle grade classic ‘Caballero’ 14 (since upgraded to 16 after some enthusiastic cleaning years later). The new 2 volume green guide ‘Rockclimbs in New England’ by Bob Killip and Brian Birchall came out in the later part of 1976 and featured 40 routes at Ebor up to grade 19, 27 of which had been added in that year and another 10 were added after the deadline for the guide to bring the years total to 37 new routes and one aid elimination. This was Ebor’s finest hour!

In 1977 Birchall left for Melbourne and Curtis continued on his merry way cleaning up many great climbs at Ebor such as ‘Backdoor Man’ 19 and ‘Sleight of Hand’ 19 on the 4th Breakaway and ‘Affection Injection’ 18 and ‘Bash Street’ 20 on the First Breakaway. He also discovered the 6th Breakaway and did the first easier routes there. Joe Friend arrived in Armidale late in the year and did his only significant routes here, the off width ‘Blinky Bill’ 20 on the First Breakaway and the thin crack ‘Inspiration Point’ 18 on the 5th Breakaway. Killip although still around only made sporadic appearances and led nothing of interest at Ebor in 1977. There were 19 new routes in 1977.

In 1978 both Curtis and Killip left Armidale and Birchall returned from Melbourne but it was Joe Friend who was to dominate the scene in 1978 doing many new routes in Gara Gorge but Ebor apparently didn’t interest him and no new routes were recorded here in 1978.

1979 was a year of general slackness. After Friend left, Birchall was in charge of shop and very little in the way of new routes was done (only 4 at Ebor), the most significant being the rattly fist crack ‘Fidget’ 17 on the 4th Breakaway. It was, however, a period of consolidation after the grade pushing and exploration of the previous few years and it allowed everyone the chance to get out and repeat routes.

There was also a new younger crowd of climbers such as John Lattanzio, Greg Pritchard, Ed Sharpe and later in the year Mark Colyvan, who were keen to push their grades and there was no better place than at Ebor under Birchall’s guiding hand.

1980 saw even more new-comers to Armidale in Paul Bayne and Austin Legler (from the USA). Al Stephens, who had done very little in the past few years jumped into the limelight again with Rob Clark who arrived in Armidale the previous year. The other important development in 1980 was the arrival of ‘Friends’ to New England which had immediate applications at Ebor, and later in the year the use of chalk became common.

The first route to be done in 1980 was Paul Bayne’s lead of an old problem which had been previously attempted by Dick Curtis to give ‘Anyone for Tennis’ 20MO. A couple of months later, also on the Fourth Breakaway, Mark Colyvan led the slippery off width ‘Resurrection Shuffle’ 18M0 and a little later still, visitor Tony Dignan led the classic test piece ‘Brown Buffalo’ 20. However it was the Second Breakaway which received the most attention and yielded many new routes in the latter part of the year.

Clark and Stephens did the classic line ‘Amphetamine Annie’ 18. Austin Legler did ‘Anthrax’ 19M0 (& later freed it at 20) and Lattanzio and Colyvan did many new middle and easy grade routes, the best of which was ‘Hitman’ 15. All in all there were 22 new routes for the year bringing the total to 95 at Ebor at the end of 1980. Lattanzio and Legler left Armidale at the end of the year and Pritchard left early in the next.

At the beginning of 1981 the hardest climb in New England was ‘Demon Dropout’ 21 (later upgraded to 22) put up in 1978 and while Ebor’s hardest was ‘Luce’ 20/21 (later upgraded to 21) freed in 1976. So there had been no advancement in grades at Ebor for 4 years and for 2 years in the rest of New England; that was to change in 198Early in the year Greg Pritchard, Ed Sharp and Al Stephens developed Dead Heroes Buttress and did quite a few routes here, the best of which was ‘Daroof’ 17 led by Stephens. In March Colyvan freed his own route ‘Resurrection Shuffle’ at 18 and later in the same day, along with Ed Sharpe, freed ‘Anyone for Tennis’ 20 under controversial circumstances by preplacing 2 pitons that weren’t present on the first ascent, to protect the scary top section. After much criticism Colyvan removed the pegs and led it free again without them. About midway through the year the new guide book by John Lattanzio and Greg Pritchard came out entitled ‘Climbers Guide to the N.E. Tablelands’ It contained 116 routes recorded at Ebor, although 3 were mistakes (and one omission) so there were 114 routes at this point up to grade 20/2Later that year after the new routing frenzy at Dome Wall had died down, interest reverted to Ebor and Colyvan led (and then freed) the classic offhand crack ‘Lethal Dose’ 21 while also on the 6th breakaway Birchall and Clark took turns on ‘Toxic Shock’ 20 which was one of Clark’s last routes before he left Armidale for Hobart. Right at the end of the year Colyvan led Birchall and Killip up ‘Chemical Warfare’ 22 to bring the years total number of new routes up to 25 along with 4 aid eliminations..

Interest continued at Ebor in the early part of 1982, particularly on the first breakaway where Stephens led ‘Bombay Duck’ 20MO (freed a couple of weeks later, at 21, by Lattanzio, who had returned to Armidale to live), and Colyvan led ‘Pretty Vacant’ 20, ‘Blitzkrieg Bop’ 19 and the desperate flared crack ‘Power Play’ 23MO (freed by Colyvan shortly afterwards at 23). The 4th Breakaway yielded ‘Domination Quickstep’ 19 by Lattanzio and ‘Transactional Burnout’ 20 by Birchall. Colyvan left Armidale for Sydney early in 1982. However he returned later in the year to do ‘Arsenic and Old Lace’ 24 on the 6th Breakaway, which was New England’s first 24. Interest in Ebor waned as the year went on and a total of only 9 routes and 3 aid eliminations were recorded during 1982.

1983 marked the beginning of New England climbers interest in bolt protected walls and slabs and consequently they have been pretty lean years at Ebor since then. During 1983 Colyvan returned to do ‘Blue Murder’ 21 on the Second Breakaway while Stephens led ‘Solid Gold’ 20MO, the first route on Solid Gold Buttress (freed later that same day by Colyvan at 20).

Later in the year Solid Gold Buttress was the scene of a rather unfortunate accident and rescue involving Brian Birchall, a 30 ft ground fall, a variety of popped runners and an unfinished new route. 1983 also saw Mark Colyvan lead the classic ‘It’s My Party’ 22 on the Third Breakaway on yet another of his semi-_regular visits, and Paul Bayne leave Armidale. During 1983 there were 8 new routes along with one aid elimination to bring Ebor’s total number of routes at the end of 1983 up to 137. 1984 sees the return of Richard Curtis to live in Armidale and he frees his old route ‘Prime Cut’ at 20 (which no-one knew had any aid in it, it just so happens that the couple of ascents it had also found it necessary to rest on the rope!) and added ‘Little Wonder’ 18 to the First Breakaway. He also took visitor Kevin Lindorff here so he could do the arête ‘Chocolate Barbarian’ 23, which was the first bolt protected face climb here, although poorly bolted, since the bolt spoils another naturally protected route.

1984 yielded a total of 4 new routes and one aid elimination; In 1985 Stephens does the classic bolt protected face route ‘Sucking Faces’ 20 on the first breakaway.

Curtis and Animal (Paul Colyvan) visited the other side of the gorge and did ‘Snatch and Grab’ 18 (led Curtis) and ‘Grab the Snatch’ 21 (led Animal) on Bondage Buttress. They were the only 3 new routes done in 1985.

1986 saw a couple of aid eliminations of interest with Lattanzio freeing ‘Supermouse’ at 22 and Stephens freeing all but the start of ‘Sundown’ now 20M.

Larry Dixon from Dorrigo began developing Pub Buttress on the other side of the gorge with ‘Damp Monkeys’ 18 being the first route, and probably the best to date. A total of 5 new routes and 2 aid eliminations for the year.

The only activity in 1987 has been Larry Dixon and Al Stephens continuing development of Pub Buttress and bolting some of the arêtes on the second breakaway such as ‘Modern Electrics’ 17 (by Dixon) and ‘Ilean’ 20 (by Stephens), making use of their new power drill. A total of 13 new routes were done in 1987 to bring the total number of routes recorded at Ebor at the end of 1987 to 162 with grade 3 being the easiest and grade 24 being the hardest.

I am tempted to say that the future at Ebor looks fairly bleak however stranger things have happened than crack climbing returning to favour and if recent developments with power drills and aretes continue, Ebor may yet be dragged into the modern era of face climbing. We’ll just have to wait and see.

Mark Colyvan 1 Jan 1988 1988, the Bi-Centennial year, produced four more crack-lines, the best being ‘Tough Customer’ 21 by Jack Lattanzio and Mark Colyvan. Two bolt-protected routes were also established; Tadpole’s ‘It Pays To Belong’ 20 ,and the very beautiful ‘Dream Of The Devil’ by Mark Colyvan. This climb being the first to have fixed hangers at Ebor.

In December 1989 the summer heat melted something in Al Stephens’ brain causing him, with Mark Colyvan, to bolt up ‘Dead Calm’ 22 at the 1st Breakaway . The Nymboida was very low that summer so Larry Dixon and a group of Rafting Guides visited Ebor and did ‘Old Punks and Young Hippies’ 16 on the 2nd breakaway.

1990 saw only two climbs established, both on the 2nd breakaway and both using bolts; ‘Rage’ 21 by Stephens, Gavin Dean and Anita Gordon, and ‘Steel Magnolias’ 24 , equal to the hardest grade at Ebor so far, by Mark Colyvan, Dean and Stephens.

There were no new routes at Ebor during 1991, 1992, and 1993. Many repeats were done during this time at both the First and Second Breakaways, with occasional visits to the Fourth.

Three routes were completed in 1994. At the First Breakaway Brian Cork led Scott Cleland up ‘Biscuit’ 12, and Cleland led Stephens up ‘Nought’ 18.

At the Second Breakaway Gordon Low led Al Stephens, Brian Cork and Toby Waters up ‘Sex and Intrigue’ 20.

1995 saw a new climbing style developing at Ebor, “Shimmying up a fridge”. Gordon Low used this style at the 2nd Breakaway to complete ‘New Blue Dress’ 24, equal to Ebor’s hardest.

In 1996 Gordon Low with Ben Christian, again perfected this technique by leading Ebor’s hardest climb to date, ‘The Proverbial’ 26, at the Third Breakaway.

What’s next? There are many more arêtes to be “shimmied” but they will all be very hard. If you can perfect the technique it will be worth the effort.

Al Stephens 27 Aug 1996

In 98 James Langston with Al Stephens added Funky Monkey.

Either not much happened after this or a lot of history has been lost.

In 2006 the NPWS wanted to ban climbing here but in consultation with the UNEMC future climbing here is secure. In 2007 Liam Jackson and Todd Free added some bolts around the lookout as part of this agreement.

1.4.2. Gara Gorge 567 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.811390, -30.609926

Description:

All the cliffs on the Gara gorge 15 minutes from Armidale.

1.4.3. Stonehenge 69 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.742422, -29.840773

Description:

Stonehenge is a great bouldering spot with 60+ routes on some great shaped rocks. The rock is typical New England granite with lots of crimps, flakes and great friction. And where else can you park right next to the problem you're working?

Even though stonehenge has seen active bouldering for some time a lot of history isn't recorded so any feedback on history, routes, names and grades would be greatly appreciated!

Stonehenge is about an hours drive north of Armidale and about 5 minutes south of Glen Innes. It is 700 hundred meters north of 'Balancing Rock' which is sign posted.

The area is a recreation area complete with picnic area, barbecues, footy pitch, washrooms, water and a rifle range.

1.4.4. Dangars Gorge 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.726576, -30.675762

1.4.5. Mt Yarrowyck 153 routes in Crag

Summary:

Boulder,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.372529, -30.464257

Unique Features And Strengths:

Mt Yarrowyck is granite bouldering and climbing. There is a lot of climbing that has been done and still more to be discovered. The boulders range from 2m to 15m high and the roped climbing is up to 2 pitches long.

Description:

The Mt Yarrowyck Nature Reserve west of Armidale is best known for it’s Aboriginal rock art and it’s isolation. However this area also offers some superb bouldering on exceptionally high quality granite. The boulder fields are extensive and the environment and landings usually friendly. The rock is featured with unusual crystalline pockets, heinous slopers and the arch-typical granite crimper. These combine to offer problems ranging from V0 slabs to steep pocketed test-pieces. The best time to climb is from March through to November. Winter days can be cold with single digit temperatures not unusual whilst pleasant summer mornings can give way to scorching midday sun. The area is serviced by the NPWS who maintain a toilet and some BBQs but drinking water is not available so be warned, particularly if you intend to visit in the summer months.

Jeff Gracie.

Access Issues:

95% of the climbing at Yarrowyck is located on private property, but the land owner is a climber and has granted access to all climbers anytime. Please do not leave garbage around, leave gates as you find them and do not harass stock. Climbing at Yarrowyck is a privilege, not a right.

The other 5% is located on National Park land along the trail to the Aboriginal Rock Art site.

Approach:

Yarrowyck is about 30 minutes west of Armidale.

From Armidale take the Bundarra Rd past Mitre Ten and the Sale yards for about 30 minutes.

When you get to the T-intersection at Thunderbolts Way, turn right and after about 1km turn right into the car park of the Mt Yarrowyck Reserve.

History:

It wasn’t until 1975 that the potential of the boulder fields at Yarrowyck was realized. Although the crags higher up the hill had long been a focus of local attention, the numerous problems on the low lying boulders had gone largely unnoticed. Development following the initial reconnaissance's yielded a number of area classics including Killop's Killer , Burchill's Bomber, Latanzio's Lurch and Bayne's Claim To Fame. The main protagonists at this time being Bob Killop, John Latanzio, Brian Burchill, and Paul Bayne. Unlike other bouldering areas at that time the problems at Yarrowyck focused mostly on boldness rather than technical difficulty.

By the mid 80s the focus of the Armidale climbing scene had again returned to roped climbing with the popularity of the ‘practice boulders’ all but a fond memory. However the bouldering at Mt Yarrowyck returned briefly to the limelight in the early 90’s following the arrival of the now infamous Carl Schultz. Although Carl's bouldering passion was seen by some as an oddball activity, he pioneered a number of extremely difficult problems in the Armidale area, many of which are yet to see repeats. It was in 1997 that the Yarrowyck area underwent a full bouldering renaissance after being rediscovered by Armidale locals Ben Christian, Gordon Low, and Jeff Gracie. The new problems all focused on technical difficulty and included the development of the Sharpest Mono Area with it’s classic problems, 'Pocket Fest' (V2), and 'The Sharpest Mono in the World' (V3). Development went into overdrive in early 1999 when the mist finally cleared from Christians’ ‘bouldering goggles’ allowing him to at last realize the true potential of the area (something that Gracie had been telling him for years). The first focus of attention was 'The Trackside Boulder' where 'New Beginning' (V4) and 'Jingoism' (V7) both saw quick ascents.

1.4.6. Moonbi 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,?

Long/Lat: 151.076836, -30.995035

Description:

The Moonbi area (Anteater Buttress and environs) presents many granitic cliff lines, mainly slabby in nature and much of which has now been explored. In the early years most of the interest concentrated on Anteater Buttress and the boulders above due to easy access and obvious quality. The slab routes are some of the best in New England and there have been no hang-ups with anti-bolting ethics here so most of the routes are well protected.

Access Issues:

The town of Moonbi is located about 20km North of Tamworth on the New England Highway, in the heart of chicken country. The access arrangements have changed in recent years and general access is now not allowed. If you want to climb here you must go with Kevin Moore from Tamworth or with the UNEMC from Armidale. In addition you will be required to fill out a special indemnity form, requested by the landowner's insurers available only from Moore and Stephens. Failure to adhere to this procedure will see a total lockout.

History:

The first routes were done in April 1975 by various Armidale climbers. The notable routes from these early visits were the classic 'Snakeskin Flake' 13 by Bob Killip and Phil Prior, the desperate jam crack 'Savage' 19 (now 23 due to a falling block) by Bob Killip and Max Smart, and the bold 'Slabba-Dabba-Do' 17,which was the first slab route to be done,by Robert Stazewski and Bob Killip. The last route was particularly impressive since it was done on sight (ie no brushing or bolting !) and it took many years before it had its second lead. Another route of interest was the popular 'Sorrow' 14 by Phil Prior. A total of eight new routes were put up that year.

Only two new climbs were completed in 1976, 'Laurel And Hardy' 15, above the slabs, by Brian Birchall and, on the Splitters Gully Road Slabs the multi-pitch 'Babylon' 12 by Laimonis Kavelieris, the only climb there to date.

The area continued to see visitors from time to time mainly to repeat 'Snakeskin Flake'. Early 1982 saw the first climbs at Goal Creek Slabs. Ed Sharpe led 'Trundle' 11 and Al Stephens did 'Protection Racket' 14 and 'Up For Grabs' 18. During the same year Kevin Moore completed the first route up high on the ridge at The Brothers, 'Can't Remember Her Name' 12.

However it wasn't until Mark Colyvan and Brian Birchall returned to the area to do the second ascent of 'Slabba-Dabba-Do' in early 1983 that the potential of the slabs was realised. Colyvan bolted and brushed an obvious black slab which he climbed a few months later with Paul Bayne and Paul Colyvan (Animal) to give 'New Romantic' 21 which was an instant classic. This route was Paul's introduction to slab climbing, a style which he grew to love and master very quickly. During the same year Ed Sharpe returned to Goal Creek Slabs to do the powerful 'Scare Tactics' 19. Later in the year, back at the Anteater slabs Al Stephens got into the act by doing 'On the Slack' 18, another route sporting bolts,and Paul Colyvan did 'Slap And Tickle' 17. Paul also did 'Green Spastic Chook' 11, on the boulders above the slabs.

When Paul Colyvan moved to Tamworth the next year, 1884, he did the bold slab left of 'New Romantic' called 'Fashion Conscious' 22 which was the first slab done in the new high friction boots; Fires.

Things were fairly quiet here until August,1986 when the Colyvan brothers returned for a long weekend and camped in a Kootingal motel so that they could eat Chocolate Bavarians and watch the footy at night. They spent most of the three days at the crag brushing and bolting. However they ended up with three great slab routes; 'Slow Fade' 22 by Mark,'Cock and Pullet' 17 by Paul, and 'Head Over Heels' 19 also by Paul!. Later in the year Al Stephens put in two half days bolting to produce yet another good slab in 'Buck Buck Bacaw' 21.

1987 produced only two new routes, 'Bantam' 17 by Larry Dixon, and 'Finger Lickin Chicken' by Stephens, both on the boulders above the slabs.

1988 was another quiet year with two shady climbs on the boulders above the slabs, 'Shady Bridge' by Gary Phillips and 'Shady Tactics' by Kevin Moore. Later that year Kevin Moore with Bob Murison began exploration of the Kootingal Tip. They found 'Scanties on the Chockstone' 14, by Bob, and Petticoat Corner' 14 by Kevin.

The next two years were boom years for Moonbi. During 1989 21 new climbs were recorded. Seven were completed at the Lookout Crag (now totally closed), the best being the classics 'Confidence Limits' 16 and 'Interative Process' 17 both by Kevin Moore. Eight new routes were conceived on the boulders below the slabs. The best being Larry Dixon's 'Faith No More' 21 and the classic 'Beak Job' 19, and Mark Colyvan's 'The Fosbury Flop' 21. A quick weekend visit by the infamous crag developer Andrew Penny with Carl-Joan Jagusch resulted in two new routes, the best being the very popular 'Henny Penny' 18 by Penny. Later that year Mark Colyvan with Jo Monaghan slogged their way up to the slabs on the Left side of Moonbi Gap and completed the very long, but easy access route 'Walking Back To Happiness' 4, as well as 'Promise' 16, a two pitch slab.

New route fever continued into 1990. Twenty-two new routes! John Wilde put up the last route on the slabs to date,the very bold 'Head Over Heels-Direct Finish' 24. Attention then moved to the Lookout crag. Eight new routes were completed, mostly by Newcastle climbers. The best being 'Sebastian's' Maximum Likelihood' 25 by Paul Reviere, 'Zoro Direct' 21 by George Fieg, 'Call Me Al' 24 by John Wilde and 'The Great Leap Forward' 19 by Al Stephens. During one of his visits, Newcastle climber John Wilde accidentally stole Paul Colyvan's bolt prepared route at The Fosbury Flop Boulder, 'Death Warrant' 23. Around the same time Kevin Moore completed 'Pluckin' Feathers' 21 on the boulders above the slabs. The other area of huge development was the boulders below the slabs. Seven new climbs were put up, the best being 'The Caponiser' 17 by Kevin Moore, 'Cock-A-Hoop' 22 and 'Kentucky Fried Rodent' 21 by Gavin Dean, all at Pecker Wall. Later that year interest turned to the two new areas up on the ridge. Kevin Moore led a tramline of climbers up the classic 'Boys Day Out' 15 at The Brothers, then moved on to The Minefield to do 'Hybrid Vigour' 20. With him was John Wilde who, at the same crag, completed the very technical 'Dambuster' 24.

In 1991 everyone calmed down. Kevin's son Anthony Moore led 'Play School' 7, his first lead. Al Stephens made the long trek to Moonbi Gap-Left Side to complete 'Perfect Skin' 15. Then during December when it was too hot to do any long lines, Kevin Moore ticked of three more at Kootingal Tip, 'No Refuse'15, Wasted Time' 9 and 'Laughing Litter' 10.

In 1992 Al Stephens finally cracked his long term project at Pecker Wall, 'Chicken Vindaloo' 25. Kevin Moore, Dave Worthington and Jim Morgan found another five climbs at Kootingal Tip, the best being Kevin's 'Scalpel' 19 and Jim's 'Dynamic Lifter' 21.

The Kootingal Tip produced one more climb in April 1993,'XPT' 20 by Kevin Moore. In October the same year Stuart Whitten launched a small expedition to Moonbi Gap-Right Side (the North side) and completed 'Up The Garden Path' 5, 'Sly Street' 12 and 'Shoulder Boulder' 16.

If you want to do new climbs, there's always lines between the lines. But if you don't, there are masses of great climbs to repeat. Anyone want to go to Moonbi next weekend ? Al Stephens........September 199

1.4.7. Bakers Creek 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.891919, -30.542745

Unique Features And Strengths:

Fine grained granite, large boulders

Description:

Deep gorge not far from Armidale, off Waterfall way. I heard from Rick Curtis that a few trad lines had been done there but no record of them exists. Perhaps 20 boulder problems established so far, with scope for more, and potential for bolted and naturally protected climbs as well. Access is steep and difficult, straight off the lookout.

Access Issues:

From Armidale head east on the waterfall way for 20kms, then right at the sign post, onto dirt for a couple kms.

Approach:

From the lookout, jump the fence on the right and follow a faint track down to the right. Caution must be taken walking in as the decent is very steep. As you approach there is a promising looking boulder that you soon realize is the size of a house. Most established boulder problems are downstream of this (problem 'High times and down beats' is upstream of the giant block and 'One too many' sits against it), but future problems exist right through the gorge from the waterfall downstream.

1.4.8. Bluff Rock 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.998922, -29.167188

1.4.9. Cathedral Rocks 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,Boulder

Long/Lat: 152.231903, -30.439685

Approach:

From Armidale take the Grafton/Dorrigo Road for approx. 79km to the turn-off to the park. Follow the dirt road for 7km. to the Barokee Rest Area. Park here then follow the walking track for approx. 2km. to the walls of Cathedral Rock. All climbs, except 'Morlock', are on the sunny 'North side'.

The best time to climb here is autumn, late spring or on a still, sunny winter’s day. Take out all your rubbish and no fires please.

History:

Due to the popularity of other crags in the Armidale/New England area, Cathedral Rock hasn’t produced many new routes since its discovery as a climbing area in 1979. The history of this crag spans only two years. In the first of those two years, 1979, access to the cliff was more reminiscent of a minor bush-walk. For the second part of this history, 1984, access was greatly improved with a picnic/camping area and a pleasant track leading to the crag.

In 1979 Ed Sharp convinced Al Stephens that there was a huge amount of rock to climb at Cathedral Rock. In those days there was a locked gate at the aqueduct. Bushwalkers parked here and walked several kilometres down the road, then cross-country to the rock. Ed and Al, being very cunning, phoned the D.C.A.(who administer the Radar on Round Mountain) and convinced them to leave the gate open for them. They drove to the bottom of the hill (the site of the current gate) then walked across to the rock. After some exploring they found and completed 'Morlock' (14), a climb that goes from one side of the rock to the other. They realised the great potential of the place but didn’t return until several years later.

1984 was quite a huge year for Cathedral Rock. Stephens convinced Larry Dixon of the possibility of new routes waiting in the warm winter sun. Stephens led 'Soft Touch' (17), in May and they returned in June for Dixon to lead 'Day Dream' (12), while Stephens did the big chimney 'We Won’t Get Fooled Again' (16). Stephens returned the same month with Richard Curtis to put up two climbs on the isolated pillar to the left of the walk-in track. Curtis glided up 'Tontons Macoutes' (22) while from the same start Stephens went up, did a backward somersault off, then up again, 'Street Café' (21). In August Stephens led Brian Birchall up the chimney 'Instrument Of Revenge' (17). Paul (Animal) Colyvan got wind of the possibility of new routes and in December, with Birchall and Simon Gay put up the very scary and dangerous 'Cheap Regrets' (22). The same month Colyvan returned with Stephens and Dixon to do 'Bangin’ Beava' (24).

Well that’s it for now. There are still some cracks left but the best routes will be the walls and faces littered with chicken heads. Protection will require the use of modern technology. It’s all there waiting for you!

1.4.10. Wollomombi Falls 0 routes in Crag

1.4.11. Beulah 552 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.927251, -30.485121

Unique Features And Strengths:

Rolling terrain covered in (almost) unclimbed granite boulders and domes.

Location of the Annual Beulah Rock Festivus held every Easter and/or ANZAC Day. www.BeulahRockFestivus.com

Description:

Located 1.5 hrs west of Armidale, NSW, Beulah is the Axelsen Family Station. The station is 3000 acres in size and has rolling hills covered in granite boulders as well as 3 large domes up to 70m in height.

Access Issues:

Access to Beulah is only permitted during the Annual Beulah Rock Festivus that is held there every Easter. More info here: www.beulahrockfestivus.com

Approach:

From Armidale, head west on the Bundarra Road. When you come to a T-junction with Thunderbolts Way, turn right. Follow this until the next left after about 5 km, which is Torreyburn Road, which will take you to Kingstown.

From Kingstown head west on the Bendemeer Road for about 3 km then turn right onto Warrabah Road.

Set your trip odometer to zero.

Follow Warrabah Road for 22.6 km going through many dips and over several cattle grids. If you get to 23 km, you have gone too far. You will pass through Warrabah Station and drive by Warrabah Homestead, white metal signs will tell you this. Just before you get to Beulah you will see a sign on the left at a white cattle grid saying welcome to Linton Station. Two hundred metres passed this is Beulah.

You're looking for a green mailbox on the left that says Beulah and has a large piece of steel nailed to a tree with BRF spray painted on it. You made it.

Address is 2317 Warabah Road, Beulah Station.

GPS for Gate: -30.462131 150.919796

Where To Stay:

During the Festivus camping is available and some accommodation is available in two vacant and unfurnished houses.

Ethic:

First ascents are hugely appreciated and the object of climbing at Beulah. Scrubbing lichen and removing loose rock is encouraged but the line is drawn at chipping holds or glueing holds back on. If a hold comes off, please leave it off and climb what the rock affords you.

Bolting is also permitted with permission and as long as there is no available natural protection. For example this includes a 30m climb that requires 9 bolts and one cam or wire to protect. The adding of a 10th bolt for the convenience of not having to carry said wire or nut is not acceptable.

History:

The first boulder problems and routes were scrubbed in 2005. The following year more potential problems were scrubbed, GPS'd and left for another time. The idea for the Festivus began in early 2007 and the first Festivus saw 7 people out in August sending some scrubbed lines. The second annual saw attendance double and the date change to Easter. The third annual event became the a full blown Beulah Rock Festivus complete with sponsorship, prizes, events and climbers from all over Australia. 2010 had 60 people from all over coming out for 4 days of perfect weather and a 132 new problems sent!

In 2011 the 5th Annual had over 120 climbers come out for five days of sun and good times!

1.5. Sydney Metropolitan 3,119 routes in Region

Summary:

Boulder,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.986010, -33.799653

Description:

*Note 31/12/11 following user feedback (and a look at the map) we've moved the crags that were at >NSW & ACT >Sydney Metroplitan > Southern Highlands to >NSW & ACT >Illawarra. Let us know if you have comments or suggestions: support@thecrag.com Thanks

1.5.1. Hornsby and the North 522 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.169128, -33.598760

1.5.2. Sutherland 568 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.039454, -34.043832

Unique Features And Strengths:

The Shire has a long history of climbing. Accessible cliffs, routes you do not have to die for and a variety of locations keep the suburbanite climbers happy. Because of the not so steep nature of much of the sandstone in the area, a lot of routes are of a moderate grade making it a good place for new climbers to develop their craft.

Description:

Most of the climbing can be found on the rim of the hills, overlooking the Woronora River and Georges Rivers. The rock is the usual Sydney sandstone but the Cathedral has a a weird type of stone that is a refreshing change from the norm.

Access Issues:

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Ethic:

There are no real ethics in Sydney, ethics were surrended to the Riobi and Hilti crews in the 1990's. It is common that people retro-bolt. Places like Bonnet Bay, Wastelands and Heathcote being good examples. In recent times, old routes have been repeated and renamed at places which is a little dissapointing. It would be sad to see the crags grid locked with rings.

History:

Climbing has been going on since the 1960's in the Shire. Gossip has it that an old doctor used to play around the cliffs on the Woronora River in those early years. Joe Friend was also known to climb here back in the 1970's. You can find some old pitons, pin scars at odd locations such as the Heathcote Bridge, Menai area and at the Cathederal. It was common that Scouts and at times the Army regularly frequented places like Menai, Lucas Heights and Alfords Point.

The 1980's saw a steep rise in development with climbers from the Loftus Crew, Anthony Scharnbel,Damian Taylor and Bruce Stevens. A big influence in the 1980-1990's was David Barnes. Dave developed several new areas and put up scores of routes across the shire, including the classic routes at Rainbow Wall and Ruthless Babe and a handful of others at Heathcote. He has now moved onto Tassie. Mikl of course had flurries of activity at the Cathedral, Bonnett Bay and Heathcote when he was working with Homer Simpson at the Lucas Heights Nuclear facility. A Young Graham Fairburn made a good contribution to the Cathederal, before growing muscles at Nowra.

In the last ten years Jason Lammers has added new routes as well as re-bolting the old routes, lower offs and rings have been added to most shire crags now. As of 2010 Neil Monteith has been living in the area so a new chapter of history is a given. What will you add? DB

1.5.3. North West 597 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.898398, -33.700973

1.5.4. Northern Beaches 416 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.287204, -33.703897

1.5.5. North Shore 522 routes in Crag

Summary:

Boulder,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.187634, -33.773890

1.5.6. Eastern Suburbs 214 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.235257, -33.923369

1.5.7. Inner West 74 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.122433, -33.897807

Description:© (willmonks)

A blank little wall, most routes having been chipped into existence. Which is fair enough considering the surroundings! It's not exactly peaceful here, being right next to a 4 lane arterial.

1.5.8. Western Suburbs 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.5.9. Colo River 73 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport

1.5.10. South West 76 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

1.5.11. Royal National Park 53 routes in Crag

Summary:

Boulder,Sport and ?

1.5.12. Harbourside 0 routes in Area

1.5.13. Fairy Bower Cliff 0 routes in Area

Description:© (christo)

Only one climb here, but a fun one nonetheless. Good views, decent rock and it is further from the tourist hoards and park rangers.....

Approach:© (christo)

On the north-eastern side of North head, just south of Fairy Bower. From the southern end of the car-park at Fairy Bower, take the well-touristed bush track. Follow this up the hill, past the lookout and through a small hole in the big sandstone wall. Immediately turn left and follow the stone wall to the cliff edge (maybe 20 m or so) and then follow this for ~50 m, dodging around numerous banksia bushes and spider's webs. Two rap bolts are located on top of a large sandstone block overlooking a SE facing wall. Rap of these.

It is also possible to walk along the rock platform, which makes locating the cliff easier, however the scub-bash from the rocks to the cliff is possibly more demanding than the climb itself.

1.6. Illawarra 2,449 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.610345, -34.772557

Description:

Sandstone ranging from rock hard at Mt Alex to slightly sandy else where.

1.6.1. Nowra 1,576 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.489342, -34.978928

Unique Features And Strengths:

The best sport climbing in the state. Sometimes ugly, but great climbing, with a huge variety of styles.

Description:

Nowra is a fantastic sport climbing area, in quite a beautiful urban setting, with many of the crags sitting in valleys carved out by the Shoalhaven River. It is not unusual to park your car outside someone's house, then disappear into the bush, and 3 minutes later be at the crag. The climbing is characterized by being steep and powerful, there are not many pure endurance routes. While the climbing is not as visually inspiring as other areas in Australia, once you're on it's very good.

Nowra is a very comfortable place to climb, most of crags require a five minute approach at the most. All the routes are bolted with easy lower offs and the rock is generally very good. While Nowra doesn’t offer the casual café style that the Blue Mountains has, it is a good location for rest days, with reasonable surf only a short drive away. Nowra itself has all the amenities you would expect from a reasonably sized city.

For the beginner climber Nowra doesn't have a lot to offer, all the easier type climbs do tend to be the chossier ones, and there is very little below grade 18. For the intermediate to advanced climber however there is a lot of very good routes to do, especially if you climb 20+. The best crag in the area is Thompson's Point, it offers more climbing in a greater range of grades than any other Nowra crag. This is probably the best crag to visit if you are an intermediate climber. In the 18 to 24 range there is a plethora of really good routes, all well protected and ideal for pushing your grades on.

For the advanced climber there is loads of stuff to do. There are a lot of other crags apart from Thompson's, they are not quite so large and varied. The intermediate climber has to wander about a bit, but there are some real gems to be found. For the harder climber Nowra is a paradise of projects to do. Apart from climbing there is also a lot of bouldering, a lot of hard stuff has been done at areas like Lot 31 and Cheesedale.

All up Nowra is a great place to climb, what it lacks in presence, it makes up for in fun.

Approach:

Three hours south of Sydney. It’s easy to get public transport to Nowra, once you are there many of the crags are in walking distance of each other. If you're staying at one of the parks opposite Thompson's Point it may be to hire a canoe to get across, which saves a long walk.

Where To Stay:

It is possible to bush camp for free, but you want to have found a very secluded spot- climbers' cars have been broken into. The best option is to pay for camping at one of the parks opposite Thompson's Point.

1.6.2. Point Perpendicular 536 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 150.805996, -35.040913

1.6.3. Wollongong 271 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.920377, -34.324719

Unique Features And Strengths:

Short (8 - 18m) Sandstone climbs. Easy Access.

Description:

Australias 9th largest city. With excellent beaches, mountain bike trails and a relaxed pace (as compared to Sydney)

Access Issues:

Crags within a 20km (max.) range of each other. Easy drive-to and then short walk access.

Approach:

1.25 hours drive from Sydney.

1.6.4. Green Cape - SE Coast 0 routes in Crag

1.6.5. Pulpit Rock - South Side Upper 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Boulder

1.6.6. Pulpit Rock - South Side Lower 0 routes in Crag

1.6.7. City Rocks 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.6.8. Appin 34 routes in Crag

Summary:

Boulder,? and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.840739, -34.212799

1.6.9. The Chopping Block 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:

Small out crop in Belangalo Forest. Nice featured rock, potential for lots more routes scattered in the gorges around the area.

1.7. South Coast 56 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 149.934651, -36.360813

Description:© (nmonteith)

Sandstone sea-cliff climbing a long way from anywhere.

1.7.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,? and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.021565, -37.242544

Description:© (nmonteith)

Pulpit Rock is a 100m wide, 9-10m high sea cliff of Grampians-like sandstone in Ben Boyd National Park, N.S.W. (580km from Melbourne). It is approx 48km by road north of 'Victoria' on the seaward side of Green Cape near Disaster Bay. This is about 35km by road south of Eden, N.S.W. and Twofold Bay. 'Pulpit' Rock is one of many 5-25m sea cliffs on Green Cape Peninsula that are accessible by unsealed roads and scenic trails. Most sea cliffs are vertical with clean well-defined lines, flaring cracks and bizarre weathering patterns typical of coastal exposure. Considerable potential exists for

technical short routes. 'Pulpit' Rock has been climbed before, oxidised carabiners were found in a dead tree at the back of the upper terrace,

apparently for belaying. Knowing this, our intent here is to point out a place worthy of a visit during a trip between 'Melbourne' and Sydney. 'Pulpit'

Rock is frequented by land based game fishermen, who consider climbers as something of a novelty. 'Pulpit' Rock faces east and is well protected from

the westerly winds which, for secret reasons, is when the fisherman turn up to float their live bait seaward on lines attached to balloons. Lines are

driven by the wind for about a half kilometre out to sea, to where large gamefish (Marlin, Yellowfin Tuna, etc) surface to feed. This is where the

eastern continental shelf-edge drops dramatically to the bottom of the Tasman Sea. Winds from the Tasman are cold so to escape an onshore wind go

over to City Rock on Disaster Bay (approximately 4km from 'Pulpit' Rock). The cliff there appears very steep to overhanging and is about a one minute walk from the car park. Rick Carey, Mike Law-Smith and Zac Zaharias and others lead all the top roped climbs described in the previous edition of the Green Cape Sea Cliffs guide around 2004 as well as adding many more.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From 'Melbourne' take the Princes 'Highway' toward south eastern N.S.W. (550 km). At approx 35km north of Genoa, Vic (18km south of Eden, N.S.W.) turn right into Edrom Road (sealed; signposted), which provides access both to a Pulp Mill on Twofold Bay and to Green Cape in Ben Boyd NP, where 'Pulpit' Rock is located. Petrol and basic provisions are at Kiah, another 5km further along the Princess 'Highway'. After 6km on Edrom

Road, turn right onto Green Cape Road (unsealed) and go 18km to the 'Pulpit' Rock turnoff on the left. On the way, you will pass signposted roads on the left to Saltwater Creek Campground (8km) and Bittangabee Campground (15km) and on the right to City Rock (17km; no camping). At 18km 'Pulpit' Rock Road turns left (signposted). The main road ends 3km further at Green Cape lighthouse. The final 1.5km of the track to 'Pulpit' Rock leads to a car park among Ti trees, just above the climbs. Walk east 100m toward the sound of crashing

waves. The area can be reached from Canberra by heading to Cooma and then down to Eden, Drive south from Eden about 17km and turn left on Edrom Road, follow the signs to Greencape Lighthouse. Just prior to reaching the lighthouse a sign will direct you right 700m to City Rock, or continue towards Greencape a short distance and a

left turn that will take you 1.6km to 'Pulpit' Rock. City Rock involves a short walk to access the climbing areas. 'Pulpit' rock is more easily accessed from the car just walk down a few steps onto a large rock platform and amphitheatre.

If you enjoy fishing bring your tackle, there are heaps of large fish to be had. On the first trip, during a break in the climbing the Rick Carey caught 6 good-sized fish in 20 min using a hand spear and snorkel, much to the disgust of several line fishermen watching on. In addition to the edible wildlife there are some large predators in

the deep water. Whilst fishing we observed a large leopard seal slicing up the large schools of fish, this was a little unnerving. The fishermen spoke of large aggressive bronze whaler and mako sharks being common in the area, so keep a look out especially if you are in the water with injured fish. Equipment - The area lends itself to natural protection, most routes are capable of being well protected using a variety of small wires and RP's. 'Small' to medium cams are particularly useful so don't forget them. Most routes are short 12-15 meters so a big wall rack is not required. Anchors - As yet top roping and rap chains are not in place, so you will need to set your own belays using the trees and cracks at the top. Most are well back from the edge requiring extensions using ropes or long slings. Ensure you

back everything up until such time more permanent anchors are in situ. CLIMBS - A trail to the base of 'Pulpit' Rock leads eastward from the car park to a trail on an 'arête'. The path leads down to a lower terrace with a steep back wall (the main face). An alternate, poorly defined trail descends southeast

through scrub to an upper terrace that's tilted gently seaward. For top-roping here, anchor placement is difficult so, unless bolt anchors are added a second rope is needed to reach scrub at the back of the terrace, The right side of the cliff (facing it) provides a quick descent route from the upper terrace (see sketch) through vegetated

sandy rubble. The 'Pulpit' Rock main face, as it is approached from below, begins on the right with a pocketed, clean, sandstone wall with limited pro and dirty exits. Potential here is for bolt protection and ice-axe exits. The centre section is best with steep walls, shallow corners, and sinuous left-leaning cracks with overhanging roofs. Around

left, large blocky faces alternate with mostly vertical, 90-degree corners. Because the back corners are sheltered, people use it for relief of body-functions. Unless the platform is clean from storm waves, approach this area from upwind with caution.

1.7.2. Tuross gorge 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 149.655752, -36.456090

1.7.3. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay 31 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.018808, -37.212640

1.8. Central Tablelands 4,962 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 149.895747, -33.069365

1.8.1. Blue Mountains 4,434 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.337263, -33.703968

Unique Features And Strengths:

Massive amounts of rock, easily accessible high quality routes in a beautiful location.

Description:

Driving up into the Blue Mountains is like entering a fortress, for once you are up in them, you are on a plateau surrounded on all sides by cliffs. It is in this almost suburban bush surrounding, that some of Australia's best climbing resides. From big adventurous walls, to smaller single pitch sport climbs, to fantastic trad climbing, the Blueys has a bit of it all. All this comes amidst the smoky blue green vistas of the Blueys, which on a good day are so peaceful you will never want to leave.

The Blue Mountains are a unique destination offering a very civilised climbing experience, courtesy of places like Katoomba and Blackheath, that sport a healthy cafe culture. The mornings can begin with a coffee in Blackheath and a visit to the bakery. The day can then be spent thrashing yourself on some of the countless sport routes, or scaring yourself silly on some sandy trad horror show. The evening can then culminate in Katoomba with a nice café meal and possibly a film. For a more traditional experience head to Mt Victoria for the pub, and the rickety old theatre. Most of the crags are within easy driving distance of each other, and in some cases easy walking distance. The most popular area is around Blackheath which offers the highest concentration of quality climbing to be found. There are many other areas though which are very good, most of which are within half an hour, to an hours drive away. For most people these days, the Blueys is really a sport climbing destination. Apart from Nowra, there is no other place where you will find so many sport routes. There is still plenty of trad climbing though, even though the sandstone is not as suited to trad climbing as the Grampians and Arapiles, being generally poorer in quality. Mt Piddington and Mt York are probably two of the best places to trad climb, although both crags offer some sport climbing. Around Blackheath the best sport area is Centennial Glen, although Upper Shipley probably offers more options for the intermediate climber.

For the beginner climber the Blue Mountains is nowhere near as good as Arapiles or the Grampians, the easier routes do tend to be the chossier ones. For the intermediate to advanced climber though, the Blue Mountains is fantastic. The beginner climber should not be put off however, as the Blue Mountains probably has more climbing companies offering introductions to climbing, than anywhere else in the country. The Blueys is a fantastic place to spend time, although it can be a little more expensive than other areas, due to having so many more temptations.

Access Issues:

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsular are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. Technically neither of the agencies acknowledge climbing as a legitimate nature based activity! In reality, climbing is one of the main reasons visitors come to the Blueys. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:

An hour and a half’s drive west of Sydney (80kms). There is a train line that runs right across the top of the Blue Mountains plateau and many stations are in very close proximity to the crags. There is also a bus service.

Where To Stay:

Camping isn't fantastic, there are free campgrounds in the Megalong Valley, Mt York and Perrys Lookdown but they are a long way from the crags if you don't have a car and have limited facilities. Blackheath has a BMCC operated campground which offers security and showers and is in the centre of the main climbing hub, Katoomba has plenty of hostels and there are many bed and breakfast type places through the mountains, if you can afford it. It really is a place where a car is needed to make the best of the area.

Ethic:

Due to the 'nature' of the rock (and a recent fatality) bolting by visitors is discouraged (well, at least thats what people who reckon they own the place think. The rest of of us discourage shit bolting, not visitor's bolting). If you do need to 'top rope' then please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain. It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush! The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to esthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally its best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

1.8.2. Wolgan Valley 395 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 150.244091, -33.242901

1.8.3. Evans Crown Tarana 130 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 149.924886, -33.548850

1.8.4. Mt Canobolas 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.981443, -33.378145

1.9. Southern Tablelands 598 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 149.560756, -34.821083

1.9.1. Bungonia Gorge 119 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.012665, -34.795508

Unique Features And Strengths:

Limestone gorge two hours from Sydney, three from the blue mountains. Need I say more.

Description:

Up to 300m limestone multi-pitch climbing with single pitch sport and bouldering at the base.

Approach:

3 min drive to the look out and then 30-40 min steep walk down the red track into the slot canyon.

Where To Stay:

Camping on site. $10 per night plus $7 per car.

1.9.2. Nerriga 79 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.088437, -35.126986

1.9.3. Wingello 176 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.252475, -34.710215

Unique Features And Strengths:

Wingello has a good variety of climbing combined with fairly easy access and camping which make for a fantastic weekend away. If a day trip is more to your liking, Wingello is only an hour down the freeway from Liverpool in South Western Sydney. So it is well within the 2 hour day trip limit.

Description:

The crag is located in a great location over looking beautiful bushland about 10 minutes out of Wingello. The best coffee in Wingello is served at the Wingello Village store, which is located just over the railway tracks in the down town metropolis. They also sell pies, bread and basic lunch supplies. They open early on weekdays, but 8am on Saturdays – closed on Sundays. The walls of Supa Fun Happy and La Paz have some fantastic climbing with amazing almost Grampians like sandstone. Supa Fun happy is a good wall to start at with a good mix of grades.

Access Issues:

From Sydney: Wingello is about 1 hour from the M7/M5 intersection and the crag itself is about 20 minutes out of Wingello (depending on your car). Wingello is best reached (from Sydney) by busting straight down the Hume Hwy to the turn off just after the paddy’s river bridge. You can also go through Bundanoon but its probably a bit slower. From Macca’s on the Freeway its 11.5km to the Wingello turn off, and another 8km from there to the Wingello Railway Crossing. Reset your Speedo on the railway line or at the shop

From Canberra:

Reset Speedo at NSW Border on Federal Highway. The BP at Marulan is 110km or 1hrs drive, Wingello Turn off is 124.7 km or 1hr and 10 mins The Railway crossing at Wingello is 131.6km or 1 hr 15mins.

Approach:

Detailed Directions from Wingello 1. (0.0km) - Cross the railway track and turn right. Stop at General Store for supplies for lunch. Grab a coffee and a pie. 2. (0.1km)- Take 1st LEFT into Forest Road. 3. (2.8km)- Continue along into Wingello State forest past state forest sign 4. (4.2km)- Turn RIGHT into Running Creek Road at campground ie. The grassy area between the tall trees 5. (4.4km)- Turn LEFT about 100m later into Gulp Road 6. (4.8km)- Veer leftish onto smaller looking road (its still Gulp Road) at first intersection 7. (5.5km)- Veer right at next ‘V’ intersection 8. (8.6km)- Turn LEFT at big tree in clearing the track gets a little rough from here but is ok for 2wd with a little care. 9. (10.0km) – At rock Cairn on left side of road. Park here to access La Sancta Wall. Keep driving if you want to get to the other areas more easily. 10. (11.1km)- Reach fireman’s memorial and park here. Grab your gear and take the LEFT fire trail down steep hill. 11. Walk straight down hill to large rock platform to get to western area access or take an obvious right fork and walk towards the eastern access gully.

1.9.4. Tallong 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.105802, -34.734365

1.9.5. New Area 24 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Description:

A nearby bouldering area is about all you're likely to find here, but there's some possibility of climbing nearby, particularly a cliff on private property that looks to be ~15 metres high. This area is currently being developed and so directions are redacted, but will be published soon.

1.9.6. Mt Alexandra 125 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,? and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.455956, -34.442432

Description:

A great crag in Mittagong, just over and hours drive from Sydney. A good change from Nowra. Climbs are mostly sport climbs with the odd trad line thrown in. Faces north west so can get a bit hot in summer, but because of the altitude tends to stay cooler than Nowra.

Approach:© (bundybear)

To get to Mt. Alexandra from Sydney follow the Hume

'Highway' until it is possible to turn off into Mittagong.

Follow the road into Mittagong. Once you pass the

Information Center on your L take the next R just past

the petrol station. Take the next L then turn R into

'Victoria' St. Follow this as it climbs steeply up until its

end in a dirt carpark, park here. Walk towards the rock cutting past the obvious

overhanging bouldering area on your R (Sico wall) turn

L down hill and pass another bouldering area (Garth's

gallery) turn downhill again and follow the track to the

base of the cliffs.

1.9.7. Area 51 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,Trad

Long/Lat: 150.458920, -34.439819

Description:© (bundybear)

Useful Info: Area 51, also known as Groom Lake, is a secret military facility about 90 miles north of Las Vegas. The number refers to a 6-by-10-mile block of land, at the center of which is a large air base the government will not discuss. The site was selected in the mid-1950s for testing of the U-2 spyplane, due to its remoteness, proximity to existing facilities and presence of a dry lake bed for landings. Groom Lake is America's traditional testing ground for "black budget" aircraft before they are publicly acknowledged. The facility and surrounding areas are also associated -- with varying levels of credibility -- with UFO and conspiracy stories. In 1989, Bob Lazar claimed on a Las Vegas television station that he had worked with alien spacecraft at Papoose Lake, south of Area 51. Since then, "Area 51" has become a popular symbol for the alleged U.S. Government UFO cover-up.

Routes are described right to left as you approach the crag.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Park at the Gym/Swimming Pool Carpark.

Head straight up the hill on foot, passing the gym until you reach the fire access road (about 20 metres past the gym). There is a sign calling it the RED Track.

Follow this road down hill as it runs beside the Nattai River (looks more like a creek). After four or five minutes you should see a wooden post painted white on the bottom and red on top on the left side of the fire access road.

Walk 108 steps past this and then turn right off the road into bush down towards the river. Look for yellow tape on trees and cairns to guide the way.

Cross river easily and walk up steep hill veering gradually left as you go. Head up towards the cliffs at the top (about three to five minutes).

When you get to the cliff turn left and look for the ring bolts about five to ten metres along cliff. The first climb you come to is 'Butch'. This is a new crag so expect some loose rock for a while.

1.9.8. Mt Gibraltar 0 routes in Crag

1.9.9. Perpendicular Rock 34 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.9.10. The Loony Bin 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,?

Unique Features And Strengths:

Great rock. All the starts are hard, most routes have a roof or two.

Description:

12 metre high wall capped with a roof in most places. Vertical to steep routes on beautiful rock. Routes described left to right.

Access Issues:

National park land so take care with new routes. Park at the 2nd Shellhaven sign as you leave Fitzroy Fall.

Approach:

Walk up the road for two minutes.

Ethic:

Bolts.

1.9.11. The Sanctuary 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

A collection of cliffs from 10 to 20 metres in height overlooking a picturesque valley. Near Mittangong, details TBA

1.10. Snowy Mountains 74 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Boulder and Aid

Long/Lat: 148.866281, -36.358254

1.10.1. Blue Lake 51 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 148.313099, -36.403617

1.10.2. Club Lake 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.10.3. Mount Clarke 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.10.4. Mount Townsend 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.258688, -36.423465

1.10.5. Barry Way 0 routes in Area

1.10.6. Perisher Blue 11 routes in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.415698, -36.400950

1.10.7. Jindabyne 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.614715, -36.422798

1.11. Northwest Slopes and plains 381 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 149.902545, -30.107391

1.11.1. Kaputar 381 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 150.142584, -30.289936

1.12. Central Western Slope and Plains 233 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 147.888469, -32.350568

1.12.1. Warrumbungles 233 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 149.005306, -31.282894

1.13. South West Slopes 0 routes in Region

1.14. Riverina 73 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 145.663287, -34.746873

1.14.1. The Rock 73 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 147.354259, -35.744045

1.15. Lower Western 0 routes in Region

1.16. Upper Western 0 routes in Region

1.17. Australian Capital Territory 1,847 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 149.021442, -35.466148

Description:

Generally - must love granite. The ACT is ringed with a large number of cliffs - for such a small geographical area - the majority of which are granite. Trad and mixed climbing is a focus, with Booroomba Rocks, Gibraltar Peak, Orroral Ridge and other such granite areas presenting opportunities for single and multi-pitch climbing up to hundreds of metres tall. Many of them also present interesting opportunities to test the mental faculties above large runouts as well!

However, don't be fooled by the name of the local guide (ACT Granite), sport climbing on other types of rock is by no means unrepresented in the area with a number of crags such as Red Rocks and those to be found in the Mount Coree area providing opportunities for late teen to late grade twenty climbing on river-style rhyolite rock. The ACT currently has climbs of grades up to 28/29. Climbers new to granite, slab and/or crack climbing are encouraged to jump on a few lower grade climbs before throwing themselves headlong into an epic!

There remain a few hard projects around the ACT that have not yet to the author's knowledge been freed and that could push ACT grades into the thirties.

Climbing is fairly accessible in the ACT, with both Kambah Rocks and Red Rocks within easy reach of the city itself. A number of other crags close to the city have either seen access closed (Ginninderra Falls, Michelago) or have fallen off the radar of current climbers in favour of the established granite cliffs and tors.

Bouldering in the area is mostly on granite and generally quite accessible, particularly Cooleman Ridge. For a break from small granite crimps, a reasonable number of boulder problems can also be found at Red Rocks. Grades go from V0- up to V11, though they thin out substantially above V8. There is reasonable potential for new problems in a number of areas around the ACT.

If you are having difficulty finding the areas - and some can be very difficult to find, the following link may be of use:

http://maps.google.com.au/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&t=p&msa=0&msid=202220939889529959331.0004614316914ba5e0cf2&ll=-35.469618,149.136658&spn=1.263842,2.103882&z=9

1.17.1. Booroomba Rocks 343 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 148.994017, -35.561771

Unique Features And Strengths:

Like much of Canberra, Booroomba showcases the qualities of granite.

Description:

Booroomba Rocks is one of the classic traditional areas of Canberra, and often considered one of the gems of Australian climbing, ranking behind Arapiles, but not by far. A large, proud cliff that can be seen from Canberra, it is home to the tallest climbs in Canberra, though often the final metres of the taller climbs are more a walk-off than any kind of climbing. Expect adventure and come prepared with your rack and a strong lead head.

Approach:

Drive to Tharwa and continue south on the Naas road for about 10 kilometres, then turn right onto Honeysuckle Road towards the site of the Honeysuckle Creek Tracking Station (the turnoff to the right at the top of the hill above Naas). Follow the road for about 8 kilometres, turning right about 400 metres before the old Tracking Station site. Follow this track for about 2.5 kilometres and turn left to a camping area. The road is usually passable in two wheel drive vehicles, noting that there is one steep section that will require a bit of grunt or a run up. Booroomba Rocks is signposted - take the well trodden path that starts on the northern side, grunt uphill for about twenty minutes to a fireplace and campsite above Middle Rocks. This is generally used as the main meeting point for groups before trundling off to start a climb.

Ethic:

The ethic at Booroomba is generally staunchly traditional. Most climbing goes either entirely on gear or gear with bolts for those walls where there is insufficient gear to protect climbs. Climbs are occasionally rebolted, but retro-bolting would be considered vandalism of the lowest order.

History:

The first climbs at Booroomba Rocks were put up around 1966, and from then it saw consistent development from a number of strong crankers. Bolts started appearing over the years on a number of climbs, though never very many and only to accompany natural gear where possible. Since then a handful of climbs have been added that go purely on bolts, simple due to the lack of opportunities for natural protection. However, the prevailing style here is placing gear and adventurous climbing.

1.17.2. Orroral Ridge 321 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 148.958794, -35.600391

Unique Features And Strengths:

Orroral Ridge is a good alternative to Booroomba and in much the same style, if, like Gibraltar Peak, shorter.

Approach:©

Drive out on Apollo Road as for 'Booroomba', but go all the way to the squashed remains of the Honeysuckle Creek Tracking Station (at the end of the bitumen). The dirt road, starting from just right of the gate here, provides access to all the 'Orroral Ridge' outcrops. The condition of the road varies, but 2WD is generally possible. Beyond 'Honeysuckle Crag' the road winds up to a carpark where, once upon a time, a big scaffolding tower stood, above 'Tower Rocks'. The road passes a turnoff on the left (locked gate) which leads past 'The Battlements' and into the 'Orroral Valley'. See topo/map.

1.17.3. Orroral Valley 86 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 148.954434, -35.629659

1.17.4. Gibraltar Peak and Corin Road crags 235 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 148.929272, -35.493682

Description:

Gibraltar Peak is a Granite Tor that stands proud above the Tidbinbilla valley to its north west and and the narrow Gibraltar Creek valley to its south. Of the areas listed here, it includes Trackside, The Summit Boulders, Southern Tablelands, Knife Edge Boulder. The other listings are small crags - most of them scattered along the Corin Dam road and some in Tidbinbilla valley and its flanks.

Approach:

The first basic option for approach is by 2WD vehicle taking the main Tidbinbilla Reserve Road and parking at the first dirt carpark on the right, then walking up a (steep) 45 minute track towards the peak - clearly signposted. Google maps reference for the carpark is -35.448714,148.926694. Note you will have to pay entry costs.

Second option for the approach is from the other side, using a 4WD. Turn off from Corin Road onto the track at -35.458573,148.94753 on google maps, take a left and follow the track around until it does a 180 and you meet a gate. Park and keep trekking up the path for a steep 10 minute walk until you get to the Peak.

The peak itself can be found at -35.467329,148.95489 on google maps.

1.17.5. River Crags 169 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 148.986739, -35.240271

Description:

A number of crags in the ACT situated along either the Molonglo or other rivers nearby.

1.17.6. Southern ACT 66 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,? and Aid

Long/Lat: 148.928860, -35.732112

Description:

Contains the areas south of ACT including Mount Scabby, but not including Michelago (see River Crags for the limestone crag in Michelago).

1.17.7. Mount Coree 78 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 148.809239, -35.307522

Unique Features And Strengths:

For those who want a break from granite, and to do some proper sport climbing to boot, Mount Coree offers a lot of fun, particularly with its nearby bakery/chalet. It's best to arrive early in the morning if you want to get the best croissants!

The rock type at Mount Coree is similar to what you would find at Kambah Rocks or Red Rocks, with hidden holds abounding on many of the routes, however it has better friction and is stronger to boot, with rock fall less likely to occur.

Description:

Mount Coree can be seen from Piccadilly Circus, a large rock tor looking out over valleys at a height of 1350-1400 metres above sea level. The mountain can get quite cold in winter and does see some snow, and best climbing is therefore in autumn and spring. However, don't listen to tales that summer days can be brutal and painful - with a bit of wind, the height of the cliffs contributes to between a 5 and 7 degree drop in temperature which can make things quite pleasant. That said, the cliff is the right colour to reflect a lot of heat and UV so be careful with your sunscreen.

There is some talk of rebolting but the current climbs are galvanised steel, and are showing some rust. If you're feeling philanthropic, take some new stainless maillons or shackles to replace some of the more rusted lower-offs.

Approach:

Head out to Brindabella Road via Uriarra Road or the Cotter towards Piccadilly Circus, which is an intersection on a saddle with Two Sticks Road and Mount Franklin Road. At Piccadilly Circus, turn right onto Two Sticks Road and follow for around 8km to pass a scree slope, uphill of which is Hollywood. Continue onward further then turn right onto the Mt Coree Summit trail. This road, beyond the campsite, is in poor condition. A 4WD is required.

An alternative approach can be taken via Curries Road. Take the first right a couple hundred meters after the Brindabella Road turns to dirt, towards Blundells Flat. After a small creek crossing, turn left and wind your way up the hill to join Two Stick Road a few hundred meters before Hollywood. Curries Road is slightly rough, a 4WD is recommended.

An even more direct approach can be made via Pabral road, by continuing on straight after the Blundells Flat creek crossing. To join the Mt Coree summit trail. Pabral Road is rough in spots, a 4WD is recommended.

History:

Mount Coree saw some climbing in 1958 by John Hammond, and a number of routes were put up which are now lost to history.

Between 1996-1999, George and Sarah Fieg, Nathan Wales, Chris Warner, Justin Ryan and Glen Jones put up the current routes.

1.17.8. Black Range bouldering 151 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 149.538947, -35.412158

Description:

A fair distance out of Canberra, these granite boulders are situated in the hills of Tallaganda National Park, in a eucalypt forest. The area was first developed as a bouldering area by Duncan Brown and has since seen a lot of development by Chris Warner, George Fieg and Andrew Bull among others. The boulders are wide-spread and numerous, and home of the greatest number of problems Canberra currently has to offer.

Access Issues:

These boulders lie in a national park. While there are no current access restrictions, please respect the nature of the park and aim to minimise your impact.

Approach:

Drive out of Queanbeyan towards Bungendore on the Kings Highway and take a right onto Captain's Flat Road. After driving for a fair while turn left onto Briars Sharrow Road (this is easily missed). Cross the creek and continue a short distance, taking the next right. Drive to the end of this road and at the T-intersection turn right, to Hoskinstown. Drive through the town and take a left onto a dirt road (Forbes Creek Road). The dirt road continues for some 15-20 kilometres through fairly rough terrain (but doable for a 2WD) - continue on until you reach a small parking area with an information sign. Back up the road some five metres and to the right is The Hill, and on the left are the remainder of the areas. Allow 1 to 1.5 hours to get there from Canberra.

History:

A description provided by Duncan Brown to australianbouldering.com:

"I first found North Black in 1999 shortly after starting climbing but believing everything to be too hard it was left alone until I returned with my brother Jarvis, Ky Wittich and Chris Webb in early 2000. That year saw us develop most of the problems in two areas: the Campground and the Hill, leaving pretty much only the hardest lines undone. Some of the most notable asscents of that year were Leeson Roses 'Percival the Fiesty Mouse' V8, my 'The Mojo Connection' V7 and Ky's establishment of the desperate 'Bumknut' V5??? (which remained unrepeated despite many strong attempts until Elmar Jerg managed it in June,2002). During that time many other classic hard lines were cleaned but awaited (and some still await) someone strong enough to send them. At the end of 2000 some new keen developers joined in, most notably Andrew Bull & George Fieg. Over the next year or so they cleaned up numerous unfinished projects including Andrew's spectacular 'Nob Jockey' V8, as well as finding and developing several new areas just down the road such as Dog Rock, Wombat Rock, the Asteroid and a few unnamed areas, all of which contain dozens of beautiful granite problems of all styles and grades. The last year has also seen visits from some of our strong northern cousins with 'Sticky' Dale repeating almost every problem V9 and over in a single weekend and Zac Vertrees snagging the first ascent of one of the most amazing lines in the area 'Zacs Arete'(aka'the Nothing') V9. North Black is situated in the mountains about 30kms south of the town of Bungendore which is just east of Canberra (you will find it on most road maps). It is an amazing setting with granite boulders of all sizes scattered throughout the forested hills. This is a place with something for everyone; slabs through to super steep, easy as they come through to desperate unfinished projects with plenty of everything else in between with most of the problems being in the below V3 bracket. It is also one of the few places where you can spend all day putting up new problems, so bring a brush!"

1.17.9. Corin Road Bouldering 96 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.947825, -35.474015

Unique Features And Strengths:

Best featured granite boulders (with actual holds) in Canberra.

Description:

A number of boulders can be found along Corin Road. Note that the crags in the Corin Road area (Bandido Wall, Hideout Wall, Square Rock etc) can be found under Gibraltar Peak. Like most of the rest of Canberra, the boulders around Corin Road are granite, and require good contact strength, balance and sometimes a fair bit of nerve to top out. Highball problems are a bit more common here, and there's a few that will test the V6 climber's nerve to the limits. The area has some potential for new problems, and some further work cataloguing existing problems, for example near Snake Rock.

George's Boulder is a good place for a quick stop-off and boulder if you're stretched for time, and if you have more time, Cantaloupe Hill holds enough to keep all but the very strong busy.

Access Issues:

Access is along forestry roads, which in some cases may require a 4WD or just a bit of extra walking. If you have a low clearance car you can park a few hundred metres past the Woods Reserve turnoff (good visibility both directions for parking and also driving away) and walk up from there. It is about 200m to the dirt road, and another 200m to the 4WD parking area, so it isn't a great deal more effort.

Approach:

Either through the Cotter via Cotter Road down towards Tidbinbilla, or through Point Hut Road.

Cantaloupe Hill: turn onto Corin Road, then it's around 6km until you reach a turn-off to Woods Reserve. Around 400 metres past this, a dirt forestry track on your right leads up towards Cantaloupe Hill. Drive (the road is quite rutted) or walk straight up this road until you reach a fork where it turns left and right. Ignore these - the walking track is directly in front of you, marked with a cairn or two at the start.

George's Boulder: The second dirt track turn-off on Corin Road, found 2.6km (as the crow flies) after the turn off onto Corin Road from Tidbinbilla Road. You'll know you've found the right track from its comparatively well-kept surface, and the fact that the dirt track takes an almost immediate right turn. Park at the turn and follow a faint and blackberry-infested path north for about 80 metres.

1.17.10. Pierce's Creek Bouldering 165 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.926164, -35.362085

Description:

An area developed in the main by Justin Ryan and Chris Warner after the Canberra bushfires, Pierce's Creek has hundreds of discrete boulder problems over a wide-ranging area. Unfortunately since the fires the area has seen consistent regrowth of pine and blackberry, rendering climbs difficult to find and the terrain rugged. Only the most intrepid are likely to climb here without a guide (and understandably), but there are still a lot of problems that survive and are good quality.

Approach:

Drive towards and then past the Cotter from town. You'll go through a few switchbacks and then continue past the Cotter dam. Look out on your right for Laurel Camp Road. Don't turn at the Pierce's Creek Forest sign - that's too early; continue on a bit further. Directions for individual areas can be found at the area level.

Ethic:

Quite a few climbs out here have been chipped, and some are completely chipped. That said, there's enough problems here; please don't chip or drill any more.

History:

Pierce's Creek was developed in the main by Chris Warner and Justin Ryan, with Chris developing the excellent guides that have been used as a basis for this guide. A number of other strong Canberra climbers have contributed, including Clinton Szady and Andrew Bull.

1.17.11. Cooleman Ridge Bouldering 109 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 149.034201, -35.361838

Unique Features And Strengths:

Cooleman Ridge comprises mostly granite rocks, similar to most of Canberra. As such, it's an excellent training ground for getting used to granite climbing tactics, although it won't necessarily prepare you for the long runouts you might find when tackling some of the routes around Canberra.

Description:

Cooleman Ridge has a lovely set of boulders set over six semi-distinct areas, spanning VBeginner to V8 (with one possible V10 line - hard crankers are welcome to come and attempt and/or report the grade of the #7 arete at Niblo). Cooleman has a lot more than one might expect at first glance. In fact, it covers the basics of lower grade bouldering, with some steeper and shorter climbs to be found around Niblo and Horse Paddocks, and some taller lines, verging on highballs to be found at Sun Blocks and Pony Boulders. Like most granite, the rock is not hugely featured and many climbs rely more on friction, balance and a bit of nerve to complete than pure strength. The higher grade boulders are exercises in crimping, body tension, and pure willpower.

Access Issues:

Please be sensible accessing the Horse Paddock boulders if walking in from the Kambah side and go around the horses rather than straight through the pen. Parking for access from this side is on Hake Street.

Approach:

Park in Niblo Pl or Darrell Pl (Chapman) and walk up to the ridge. Alternatively if you want to access Pony or Horse Paddock boulders, you can park on the Kambah side at Hake Street and walk across to the walking track and then uphill.

Ethic:

While some of the harder climbs on the ridge were created by chipping, where previously no climb was possible, please leave your chisels at home. There are not so many climbs at the higher grades that they should be brought down to lower levels!

History:

A detailed history of the geology of cooleman ridge can be found at: http://www.coolemanridge.org/geology.html

Without the hard work of Chris Warner in putting together topos for all of the areas on Cooleman Ridge, much of the information here would most likely have remained in people's heads. Therefore it should be noted that this guide draws heavily on the expertise and information he freely provided to the Canberra Climbers' Association and for that he has the author's thanks.

1.17.12. Miscellaneous Crags 0 routes in Crag

Description:

There a number of isolated crags scattered around the ACT and into nearby NSW that due to their small size and limited offerings are grouped here.

1.17.13. Buildering 7 routes in Feature

Summary:

All Unknown

Description:

Buildering - climbing man made structures has a proud history in Canberra. The long traverses of the rough hewn bluestone wall on the iconic National Library are a legacy of determined climbers returning time and again after being turfed off by bored security guards. Sanity and library budgetary constraints prevailed and now it is as much a part of the landscape as the joggers on the lake shore below. As a way of developing your climbing strength - outside and close to where we live it is unsurpassed.

1.17.14. Black Mountain Bouldering 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 149.097249, -35.276204

Unique Features And Strengths:

Black mountain consists of the same type of rock found around Kambah and Mount Coree. Like Coree, it is less polished than the river crags; unfortunately it is also somewhat prone to breaking just like the other areas. Like Coree, the rock also has good friction.

Description:

The boulders of black mountain (or, more accurately, exposed rock faces indigenous to the mountain, as opposed to free standing boulders) are found in a rough ring of the area. While many have visited this area over time, no details have been recorded, other than a brief mention in the local guide of 'black mountain bumdrags'.

The rock here lends itself to many hand and foot-holds, and therefore the climbing is really as hard or as easy as you make it. Enough crimps, slopes and dynoes exist to provide climbing roughly up to V5, including a roof problem or two! However, if you're looking for 'that' stellar line that climbs a line of barely possible features, there's a fair few better areas around, particularly Cantaloupe Hill (Corin bouldering) and Black Range.

However, if you're not climbing V8+, or you'd just like a pleasant afternoon out in the sun (which the mountain gets until late, as long as you're on the face near the carpark), black mountain is worth a day trip. Heck, bring a picnic along.

Note that the names and grades of what is here are liable to change for a while until they get solidified. Also you should take them as only being a general idea of the difficulty of the climb, as body morphic issues will become more apparent on eliminates/dynoes etc.

Approach:

The approach to black mountain is near the Australian National University. Turn off just before the Botanic Gardens into Black Mountain Drive and you'll wend your way up a twisty hill (a nice ride, by the way). The first parking area on your left leads to some boulders, around 150 metres from the car. You'll need to turn right off the track to find the rocks - a broken band of exposed stone up to 5 metres tall.

Where To Stay:

If you're staying in or near the city, this is a good little quick jaunt. Otherwise, there's probably other areas that will take your interest, particularly if you're staying in the south of Canberra and have access to Booroomba Rocks and Orroral Ridge.

History:

This area has been climbed at for many years, but the prevailing trad ethic ("if it's got a runner, it's not bold!!") and resulting disdain for any type of bouldering - particularly bouldering that focuses more on eliminates and/or traversing moves - has meant the problems have remained unrecorded until now.

1.17.15. Mount Ainslie Quarry 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 149.160598, -35.271518

Description:

After an investigation into the impact of climbing on the area by the ACT Parks and Conservation Service, this cliff was closed in 1994. Please respect the closure.

1.18. Cataract Gorge 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.19. Gibraltar Rock 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad

1.20. Western NSW 0 routes in Region

1.20.1. Wagga 0 routes in Area