Region Guide for Queensland

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Queensland 4,530 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.659069, -20.977083

Description:

Queensland. While not offering the world class crags such as Blue Mountains in NSW or Grampians in Victoria, what it lacks in volume it makes up for in variety. We have more varied rock types and styles within a day trip of Brisbane than any other capital city can boast.

1.1. Girraween 102 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 151.964662, -28.851536

1.1.1. First Pyramid 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.2. Second Pyramid 20 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.3. Castle Rock 15 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Sport and Boulder

Description:© (nmonteith)

Only two routes in this area.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From the camping ground follow the old 'Castle Rock' track for about 100m, then follow a vague track tot he left for approx, 400m up the hill and under the huge boulder. Continue left to walk through a narrow causeway, in ---- the first route will be found on the right wall, and the second route on the left wall. See map.

1.1.4. Sphinx Rock 12 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.1.5. Turtle Rock 30 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.6. Scattered Rocks Area 11 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.7. Shark's Fin 9 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Sport

1.1.8. Mt Norman 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.9. Turtle / Sphinx Campground Bouldering 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

1.2. Urbenville 72 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport

Long/Lat: 152.529402, -28.477421

Description:

Not technically part of Queensland, but we've adopted it as our own. Guide available on www.qurank.com

Access Issues:

For access to The Crown: It is requested (by the farmer whose land you cross to access the cliff) that you phone him prior to your arrival and seek permission to access The Crown. His name is Mr Jones and his number is (02) 6634 1225. Think of this as a courtesy call which will serve to keep climbers in the good graces of land managers. Please do it. If you should have any problems with this arrangement, post up on qurank.com.

Approach:

Urbenville is in NSW, 150 km south of Brisbane via Beaudesert. Turn R to Rathdowney at the traffic lights in Beaudesert. Through Rathdowney and past spectacular mountain scenery. 'Campbell's Folly', the cliffline just past Palen Creek is particularly awesome, although it resides on private property. Drive on past Mt Lindsay and into NSW. At Woodenbong, turn L to Tabulam on McPherson Street. It is about 13 km to Urbenville.

1.2.1. Battery Hill 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport

1.2.2. The Crown 37 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Sport

1.3. Mt Barney 40 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.675111, -28.276829

Description:© (gremlin)

The largest massif of rock in south east 'Queensland'.

1.3.1. East Peak 19 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport

1.3.2. Leaning Peak 4 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Trad

1.3.3. Isolated Peak 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad,?

1.3.4. West Peak 0 routes in Area

1.3.5. North Peak 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3.6. East Side Barney Lodge 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Boulder,?

1.3.7. East Face 0 routes in Area

Description:© (gremlin)

The big obvious face below the east peak.

1.4. Mt Maroon 327 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.722000, -28.212894

Unique Features And Strengths:

Bold trad. Big walls & many long multi-pitch routes. Heaps of untouched rock. Most areas are visited very seldom = many crags are in a pure state. Climbing is quiet, just you & nature most days. Maggie's Farm is remote (5km walk in) & is, as of 2011, out of mobile coverage = be prepared in case of injury.

Description:

Great views of the Fassifern Valley, Moogerah Valleys, Knapps Peak & Mt. Barney.

Access Issues:

Access from the carpark to the N.P. is via the N.E. track & is across gazetted private land. Please stay on the path. The N.P. boundary is signed.

Approach:

Allow 1-1:15 to get to the start of Ruby Of India; about 30min to get to Viewpoint Buttress and about 1:15-1:30 to get to the Paparazzi Cliffs.

Where To Stay:

Bigriggen is by far & away the best camp ground in the area. Drive another 7kms east towards Rathdowney, turn off, after crossing the Logan River, onto Upper Logan Rd. & follow the signs to "Bigriggen"

Ethic:

Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.

History:

Prior to the arrival of Rick White (early 1968) at Maroon, very few climbers had visited the mountain = there are no records of ascents pre-1968. Rick, together with Chris Meadows, Ted Cais, Paul Caffyn & others, established well over 100 routes, all of which are pure trad but the rare button bolt was left behind on the hard East Face routes ("Phaedra" & "The Anti-Christ"). The only enhancement that Rick did, that I know of, was on "The Nympho" (Nympho Buttress), where he drilled a handful of holes into the rock (to insert rods into), so as to aid climb the blank section. Rick established Australia's first grade 22 route with "Valhalla" (East Face) in 1972. The other big contributor of ascents on Maroon is Robert Staszewski, who has climbed there since 1969 and has established well over 100 routes there, all of which are trad. Visiting Victorian climber Chris Peisker put up Queensland's first 24 in 1977: "Wounded Bird". Some development in the 80s by Paul Hoskins, Even Bieske, Chris Frost, Mark Plenderleith & others. Scott Camps arrived on the scene in the early 80s & has established a score of routes there, some using partial bolting to keep them sane, amongst these, two 24s ("Thins" & "C Mon, I Told Ya So"). Herb Brandmeier arrived in the early 90s and established many sport/part sport routes here & controversially opened a new "sport" crag on the mountain - Paparazzi Cliffs in 2004. In the 2000s, Terry Svingen & Mark Gamble established several trad routes. A new hard multipitch route was added to the very exclusive club of routes on the formidable Tiger Face in 2004: "Solar Quartet" (23 with aid=has yet to be freed). Maroon's hardest route was freed in 2007 by Adam Donoghue & Gareth Llewellin: "The Anti-Christ" (28). Mark Gamble

1.4.1. Viewpoint Buttress 74 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad,?

Approach:© (gremlin)

Google Map of Viewpoint Buttress.

Follow the tourist track up the mountain. When you scramble up onto the first rocky knoll with a nice view. You are standing on top of the cliff... Next time walk off-trail to the right before you scramble up.

1.4.2. East Face 25 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Aid and Trad

1.4.3. Paparazzi Cliff 17 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport,? and Trad

1.4.4. North West Columns 26 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad,?

1.4.5. Virgins Window Buttress 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Approach:© (gremlin)

Along the old track about 100m after viewpoint.

1.4.6. Maggie's Farm 70 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 152.728181, -28.214981

1.4.7. Egg Rock 7 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Trad

1.4.8. Waterfall Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.4.9. The Insignificant Cliff 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad

1.4.10. The Annex 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad

1.4.11. The Breadloaf 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad

1.4.12. The Graveyard Ridge 12 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.13. Little Norway 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad

1.4.14. The Watchtower 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad

1.4.15. Nympho Buttress 18 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.4.16. Shangrilah 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.17. Ronin Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad

1.4.18. Grogan Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Trad

1.4.19. Heartcramp Buttress 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.20. Wedgie's Place 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.21. North East Buttress 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.22. Tiger Face 11 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Aid

1.4.23. The Hour Glass Cliffs 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.24. The Coffee Shop 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.25. The Bat Cave 9 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.26. Tiger Face Annex 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.27. The Lost Cliff 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.28. Central Knoll 0 routes in Area

1.4.29. Eastern Knoll 0 routes in Area

1.4.30. Tophat 0 routes in Area

1.5. Binna Burra 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Aid and Trad

Long/Lat: 153.188845, -28.196005

1.5.1. Bellbird Buttress 22 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Aid and Trad

1.6. Whitinbah Wafers 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.221928, -28.157790

Unique Features And Strengths:

Varied climbing (predominantly crack/corner) on rhyolite columns. Climbs range in height from 16m to 52m and in difficulty from grade 12 to 21.

Description:

The cliff was first sighted from near the Whitinbah prison farm in the beautiful Numinbah Valley. Through the binoculars we could see a number of shadow lines that looked interesting, so we decided to have a closer look. In early November 1973, the mank yielded and we walked underneath the cliff, astounded at the find. This small area now offers a very wide variety of concentrated crack climbing. The fascinating rock architecture on some routes is unique in Queensland crack climbing. The virgin bush, the views into the valley and a host of birds....a great place for doing absolutely nothing. The rock is well weathered rhyolite. The occassional loose flake makes a helmet a good idea. We have found slings useful on a lot of routes. Hey man, this cliff is really cool....even in mid-January only scattered sunlight gets through in the mornings, allowing climbing on the hottest of days (particularly in the afternoons). Consequently the rock takes most of the day to dry after rain. One climb "Jatz", stays dry even in heavy rain. Several tracks have been marked to help with access. (Last visited 15 years ago and scant tape on trees to mark the way down.) A walk-in track marked with orange tape leads to the southern end of the cliff. At the northern end another track (also marked with orange tape) leads from the top of the cliff to the road. Tracks marked red at end lead to abseil points. THE TRACK DOWN IS VERY STEEP AND ROUTE FINDING WOULD BE DIFFICULT IN 2010, BUT WELL WORTH THE TRIP. THE WAFERS are on the way to BINNA BURRA, drive 5.4 KM (3.3 miles) past Beechmont School (Canungra turn-off) towards BINNA BURRA. There is a large grass parking area on the right where the cutting ends, park here. Hope you enjoy the climbing. Rhys Davies, Trevor Gynther (This description/entry taken from an original typed copy of the guide book-John Rigsby-Jones Aug 2010) From the three times I have been to the cliffs, the first being in 1986 the tape was easily found on the way down. The last trip to the clifffs 5 years later the tape had been very difficult to find with some on the ground then. The slope down is very steep = be careful. The base of the cliff is also steep but safe, walking along the bottom is tricky and requires caution. JRJ

Access Issues:

The guide book has a map of how to get to the Wafers and a map of the cliffs. I will have this up asap or email fife87@hotmail.com (John Rigsby-Jones)

1.7. Burleigh Heads National Park 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,? and Sport

Long/Lat: 153.457436, -28.093649

Access Issues:

Note that as at January 2006, climbing has been officially "banned" by the area's ranger. They are permitted to issue spot fines of $225 each. You have been warned!

1.8. Poondahra (NP - closed) 97 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

1.9. The Steamers (Main Range NP) 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,?

Long/Lat: 151.635841, -28.278968

1.9.1. The Prow 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad,?

1.9.2. The Funnel 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad,?

1.9.3. The Mast 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad

1.9.4. The Pinnacle 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad

1.9.5. The Stern 0 routes in Area

1.10. Shady Buttress (closed) 131 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

1.10.1. Kanangra 13 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10.2. Phonebone Boulder 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.10.3. Bracken Wall 23 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10.4. Rumble La 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.10.5. Rhatany Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10.6. Big Shitty 19 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10.7. Jivaro 21 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10.8. The Northern Front 47 routes in Area

Summary:

1.11. Western Wall (closed) 68 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

1.11.1. The Big Grin 38 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.11.2. Echoside 30 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.12. Dinosaur Rocks (closed) 84 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

Description:

Small individual rocky outcrops

Access Issues:

Private land; farmer is not in favour of climbers on his property.

Ethic:

Farmer's hospitality was abused by climbers in the 80s = climbers now shut out.

History:

Developed by: Gordon & Evan Bieske, Stuart & Scott Camps, Andrew Barry, Peter Lehman, Mike Groom, Hugh Penning, Russell Chudliegh, Shane Chemello, Phillip Waters Allen Hansen, Phil Bigg, Paul Grey & others.

1.12.1. Pete's Place 32 routes in Area

Summary:

1.12.2. Gomboo Country 22 routes in Area

Summary:

1.12.3. The Mainsail 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.12.4. Phallus And Environs 15 routes in Area

Summary:

1.12.5. Stygian Hollow 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.12.6. The Judge's 7 routes in Area

Summary:

1.13. Mt Greville 114 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,Sport and ?

Long/Lat: 152.504148, -28.077252

Description:© (gremlin)

Mt Greville is one of the several mountains around Boonah which is protected by the Moogerah Peaks National Park. The rock is tightly fused trachyte in various stages of errosion up to about 300m in height.

Useful Info: The nearest towns by distance are: Aratula, Mt Alford and Boonah.

There is no camping, water, BBQ's or facilities of any kind.

Various rare and endangered flora and fauna can be found around the peak including:

Westringia Sericea

Hibbertia Hexandra

Plectranthus Alloplectus

Acacia brunioides subsp. brunioides

Arundinella Grevillensis

Leionema Gracile

Grevillea Linsmithii

Comesperma Breviflorum

Melaleuca Groveana

Arundinella Montana

Black-Breasted Buttonquail

Powerful Owl

Brush-tailed Rock Wallaby

Important

Don't urinate or crap in the gorges, they are creeks!

Be dicreate and respect the environment when you are here.

There is a general agreement not to climb around Palm Gorge.

It is a very unique micro-environment, leave it for future generations.

The rock quality isn't great and the walls are covered in vegetation.

Don't ruin access for others by climbing in this amazing place...

1.13.1. North Face 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad,?

Description:© (gremlin)

Very high and very intimidating. This wall hasn't been climbed on in some time.

1.13.2. Red Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport

Description:© (gremlin)

A striking, steep red wall above the grey wall.

1.13.3. The Grey Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:© (gremlin)

All day shade makes this a great summer crag (when its not wet!).

Don't remove vegetation from the base of climbs like other silly twits have been!

1.13.4. Little Springfield 17 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport,Trad and ?

Description:© (gremlin)

A fun little wall with several short yet brutal sport routes.

Approach:© (gremlin)

Follow the tourist track toward 'Waterfall' Gorge. As you walk up over a rock slab the trail starts to look like an old road. Look to your right and walk down the gully aiming for the lump of rock. If you reach the turn off for the South East Ridge or end up in 'Waterfall' Gorge you have gone a little too far.

1.13.5. The Wizard Sector 16 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:© (gremlin)

Two pillars of rock hidden halfway up 'Waterfall' Gorge. One of the best areas on 'Mt Greville'. Routes are listed from right to left when facing the rock. If scrambling around up the top, be careful not to dislodge all the loose rock on people below.

1.13.6. Sector 1 18 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Trad

1.13.7. Arnotts Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Sport

Description:© (gremlin)

Included for historical reasons.

Was another sore point with National Parks during the early development of bolted routes on the mountain. The bolts were rather obvious and right above the tourist track.

Do not place any more bolts in this area.

Approach:© (gremlin)

Was the first area you come across as you walk up 'Waterfall' Gorge.

Keep an eye out for it on the right about 500m upstream from where you enter the bottom of the gorge.

1.13.8. South East Ridge 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.13.9. Sector 6 24 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad

1.13.10. Cape Smear 12 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad

1.13.11. Magrathea 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.13.12. South Town 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad

1.13.13. Waterfall Gorge 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.13.14. Lobster Ridge and Surrounds 0 routes in Area

1.14. The Pulpit (private land) 83 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 152.551208, -28.078137

Access Issues:

Please, if you do not know the farmer and have personal permission - don't go to the cliff.

1.14.1. Back Wall 57 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

1.14.2. Front Wall 26 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.15. The Mushroom 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.16. Millepede Butress 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.17. Frog Buttress 397 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.619913, -27.984179

Unique Features And Strengths:

Pure splitters.

Description:

Hardcore crack climbing area offering splitter cracks to 40m in height.

Access Issues:

A bit over an hour SW from Brisbane.

Approach:

Five minutes.

Where To Stay:

Campground at top of cliff.

Ethic:

Trad climbing. No more bolts to be placed at the cliff.

1.18. Goombungee 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport

Description:

Toowoomba locals will be the only ones interested in this small sandstone outcropping.

Access Issues:

Last I heard (2009), the landowner did not want climbers on his land.

1.19. Redcliffs 94 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.098918, -27.461873

Description:

A sandstone cliff hidden in the bush at the foothills of Toowoomba west of Brisbane. Development started in 2000 driven primarily by Phil Box and Lee Cujes. A guide is available on www.qurank.com

Access Issues:

It's possible to walk in, or drive a high-clearance 4WD to the top of the cliff. Great for camping.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Driving from 'Brisbane' towards Toowoomba, just after Helidon turn right off the highway toward Murphy's Creek. As you enter Murphy's Creek, turn right and go under the railway line. Turn right and follow the road until you come to a crossroads.

Turn right onto 'Paradise' Creek Rd and follow it along until the road does a sharp left and heads down the ridge. Don't go down the hill, but park on the right where you can see the cliffs across a valley.

Hop out of the car and follow the ridge down into the creek. Follow the creek along until you can scramble up toward the right hand side of the cliffs.

Alternative 4wd track to top of cliff is now once again open. Head in via Thomas Road, about a hundred metres before before causeway over Murphy's Creek proper turn left down into creek on the indistinct track. Follow creek west for around 1 kilometre or so and then follow track across creek, head up hill and through forest until you hit a T junction. Turn left and then about 600 metres down that track you will experience a Thelma and Louise moment where the track abruptly ends at top of cliff.

Please don't park or camp on turn around. Camp off the side of the road on the right where a few rough campsites exist. Alternatively camp at the Murphy's Creek 'Escape' campsite at the end of Thomas Road. They are great people. Please don't park in front of any of the neighbours around the end of Thomas Road, it annoys them. Give Phil Box a ring if you need any further info or any sort of a guide in. 0418716774

Ethic:

The ethic is natural protection where possible, and glue-in ringbolts or U-bolts where fixed protection is required.

1.19.1. TR Boulder 9 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Description:© (gremlin)

This is a no bolt zone due to the height and also the bomber tree at the top.

Approach:© (gremlin)

The boulder on the left side of the crag.

1.19.2. Orange overhang 13 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Trad and Sport

1.19.3. Sharks fin 17 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Trad and Sport

1.19.4. Mythologica 18 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.19.5. Send in the Clowns 29 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Trad and Sport

1.19.6. Trad bumblies 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad

1.20. Flinders Peak 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,?

Description:© (nmonteith)

Flinders Peak is a prominent landmark to the south of Ipswich.

At this point in time it is CLOSED TO CLIMBING due to ongoing access negotiations. This won't be resolved in the near future. Please refrain from climbing at 'Flinders Peak' as it will jeopardise the dialogue that ACAQ is having with the QPWS.

1.20.1. The Wasp Factory 0 routes in Area

1.20.2. The Secret Cave 25 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport,?

Description:© (nmonteith)

An intoduction by Cameron Fairbairn

For years, the minions of the Maharaji guarded Ivory Rock from the prying interests of passing climbers. This huge unclimbed horseshoe buttress is visible from the road as you travel to Frog. For us it was always the beacon for Mt Flinders. Passed jokingly around the campfire, generations of 'Queensland' climbers have heard stories of secret cults guarding this cool formation. I remember years previously stopping at the "conference" centre to be turned away by security and being told to go to Mt Flinders further up the road if I wanted to climb something; in retrospect I should have listened to them then! In the last year we've been chased down and photographed, abruptly refused entry, and outright ignored by thousands of the Premies cultists when we questioned them about their gatherings. Visit ex-premie.org for the full story of this shady organisation. Anyway, just don't try to talk to them, they get very upset.

Mt Flinders' actual climbing history began very late, it wasn't until 2000 that '80s guru Kim Carrigan started developing a buttress on the summit ridge. Kim established six steep, sport climbs graded from 21 to 26 and a potential grade 29 project. Now, when we say steep we mean 'Queensland' steep; the wall is about forty metres high, ten degrees overhung and is north-east facing, so gets mid-arvo shade. After these routes were revealed in the pages of Rock, more climbers started checking Flinders out and in early 2001 Ross Ferguson started developing another wall on the opposite side of the ridge. Ross established six or so mixed routes of moderate grades, but on one occasion returned to find access to the mountain closed. The access gate locked and signs of indefinite closure due to remote area access surveys. What? So Ross did the final trek in for his gear and decided, disheartened, not to return. The reason for the closure, we believe, was due to an erosion hole forming in the main walking track about two-feet round. The new trail now bypasses this hole which, amazingly, is an erosion point into the back end of our recent major discovery, 'The Secret Cave'.

During Mt Flinders' closure, climbing was mostly forgotten. Then early this year Glen Foley called me to say he'd done a recon up to Kim's wall and had spied some new lines and would I be interested. He also told me about a rumoured cave some friends of his had stumbled upon five years earlier. We went there for Kim's wall, but when we found the cave all else was forgotten. 'The Secret Cave' is sixty metres high, but from twenty to fifty metres overhanging with the main wall being about twenty metres height at 60°- 80°. We had found the steepest terrain in QLD, or I should say rediscovered. We found a line of old 8mm hardware down the right wall of the cave that belonged to Frey Yule. We think he checked out the cave about five years previously but then moved interstate. The cave is SSW facing, so no sun all year round and only a 40min drive from 'Brisbane'. Unfortunately, there is also the 2.5km, 40min uphill walk in as well. The rock is solid volcanic trachyte with formations uncommon in Queensland; it's a mixture of fused blocks, huecos, crystallised slopers and hard crimps - the holds can be quite sharp. Some of the easier routes like 'The Nightmare of Milky Joe' (23) and 'Never Ask the Moon' (22) are super-fun cut-loose jug fests.

Early in the piece, Glen established 'Wet Jigsaw Puzzle' (25) a short pump fest that climbs out of the steepest part of the wall. To add to this he climbed 'King of the Mods' (29), adding to only a handful of 29s in 'Queensland'. Then the numbers rolled, I freed my project after my food was spiked 'Like a Man on Pepperoni' (28), possibly the steepest climb in 'Queensland'. That was until Glen equipped his, an 80° blank arête project, 'A Space Odyssey' 25m ? (all we know is its significantly harder than King of the Mods). At the time of writing this article, all the moves go; Glen is just contemplating the need to clip in on the crux low on the climb.

'The Secret Cave' consists of two developed areas: the steep main wall and a right hand wall which, although not as steep as the main wall, offers some challenging climbing. 'Terminus of Desire' (25) climbs from under the large undeveloped overhang. This route will be used to access the steeper upper wall which has the potential for a couple of super hard routes. With all this new development Ross returned to develop what he hoped would be a nice easy sub-20 warm up. He ended up establishing 'Finger Tips and Mountain Tops' (23), an intricate crimp-fest climbing above the lip of this right-hand buttress. Ross then established 'Song and Dance Man' (27) a steep juggy start into a hard crimper sequence. Glen the power monkey campused his way to glory on Backstroke of the West (26) while another buddy of ours Antoine Moussette battled scorpion-eating spiders on 'The French Connection' (27).

There is still so much more to do. Hard unclimbed projects, the undeveloped upper wall and the central cave section as well as some creative batman starts. 'The Secret Cave' has proved to be a valuable asset to 'Queensland' climbing, not only in the unique steep terrain, but also in the addition of ever increasing harder sport climbs in 'Queensland'.

Getaway Stats

When to go: All day, any day. Providing you can handle the heat on the walk-in.

Routes: Bolted steep sport. 12 routes, 7 projects and grades from 23 - 29

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From the Cunningham 'Highway' take the Ipswich Boonah Road, and then just before Peak Crossing, take Mount Flinders Road. Once at the Mount Flinders car park follow the summit trail for 2.5km about 40 min up hill.

This area is been closed at the moment. Please do not proceed Further. Stay on track as hicking is the only authorized activity at the moment.

1.21. Brisbane 532 routes in Region

Summary:

Boulder,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 153.035313, -27.506635

1.21.1. Kangaroo Point 369 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 153.034115, -27.478170

Unique Features And Strengths:

Urban crag par excellence!

Description:

'Kangaroo Point', affectionately known to locals as 'KP', is Brisbane's outdoor climbing gym. It is one of the most user-friendly crags around, with gigantic concrete bollards at the top of the 20m high cliff face for setting up anchors. Perfectly flat grass awaits your bouldering falls. Free barbeques lay in ready for your post(and pre?)-climb feast. Night lights allow you to climb into the wee hours of the morning. The river awaits your...hmm...actually, don't worry about the river. Caked-on chalk, climbers on top-ropes galore, a few chipped holds and bolts, bolts, bolts. Get it into ya!

Since almost every square metre of 'KP' rock is utilised, the routes are of widely varying quality. The crag is most popular with top roping beginners who do low quality routes in the 14-17 bracket. Most of the better climbing is found on grade 20+ routes. The rock is Volcanic Tuff (like Smith Rocks in the US). The majority of routes are bolted face climbs. There are a few cracks around, but they are rare and not particularly inspiring. Generally, the rock has a quarried texture and is often sandy.

Many of the bolts at 'KP' are newer ring bolts (RB in the descriptions). There are also fixed hangers (FH), as well as some carrot bolts (BR) for which bolt plates are required. Most, though not all, of the sports routes have double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off.

The cliffs face northwest and become scorching hot when the summer sun hits them mid morning, so climb early or in the evening under lights. Outside the summer months climbing is pleasant all day. The rock dries quickly after rain due to the direct sun.

It's easy to be lulled into a false sense of safety at 'KP' with such easy access and all its facilities. However, it is still a cliff and falls of (often large) rocks occur not infrequently. Serious injuries have occurred. Treat 'KP' with respect and always wear your helmet.

Access Issues:

The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.

Approach:

The cliffs are located right beside the Brisbane River, just below River Terrace in the suburb of Kangaroo Point.

The riverside bikepath runs right past the base of the cliffs and there's a CityCycle station too.

The nearest train station is South Bank, about 10 minutes walk south. The nearest bus stop is over on Main St near the River Tce intersection. The nearest CityCat ferry stops are South Bank 1 & 2 and QUT, both about 15 minutes walk south along the river. The Inner City Ferry stop at Thornton St is about 10 minutes walk north. For further public transport information see TransLink.

When it's not busy (during business hours) you can easily park at the base of the cliff. Failing that you can usually find a park up top on River Terrace.

Where To Stay:

While it's tempting to park a campervan in the bottom carpark and live the ultimate urban dirtbag life, the BCC and the police are strict about no overnight camping here. There's plenty of accommodation options around Brisbane, including backpackers for those on a budget.

Ethic:

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

• Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
• Don't ever chip holds.
• Don't paint on any new initials.
• Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.

1.21.2. Indooroopilly Bridge 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Description:

Old bolts, old scary looking hangers, chossy top out to a sloping ledge encrusted in pigeon droppings and train brake pad soot. Most of the ground has been concreted below the climbs making falls just that little bit extra daunting. Make sure when topping out you lay flat under the tracks on the sandstone ledge and wait for a train to rocket past about 1m from your head for the full experience.

Ethic:

Please don't bolt it, leave chalk marks on the wall or attract any attention to yourself. Give way to pedestrians and cyclists, obey all directions from authorities. If asked to leave, politely oblige and leave immediately. Climbing at this crag can lead to being charged with 'Unauthorised High Risk Activity', which involves a court appearance, hefty fines and an unrecorded conviction. Play it smart!

1.21.3. E-Park 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.143058, -27.624946

1.21.4. Toohey's Forest 131 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.043849, -27.539646

Unique Features And Strengths:

Hidden boulders in one of the largest remnants of bush in Brisbane

Access Issues:

Public land managed by the council, popular with walkers, joggers etc

1.21.5. Freedom Wall 0 routes in Cliff

1.22. Indian Head 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.23. Glasshouse Mountains 605 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.925051, -26.897085

Description:

Four separate volcanic plugs (mountains) located on the Sunshine Coast north of Brisbane. The online guide is available at www.qurank.com/glasshouse

Access Issues:

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Where To Stay:

There are no camping areas within Glass House Mountains National Park. Nearby Beerburrum State Forest has a camping area at Coochin Creek. There are also private camping areas on the Glass House Mountains Rd. A range of other holiday accommodation is available in the Sunshine Coast hinterland.

For more information see these tourist information links.

Ethic:

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

History:

Historically, one of the most important crags in the country. The birthplace of technical climbing in Australia is right here, pre-dating the area becoming a National Park. Ascents are recorded as early as the late 1800s.

1.23.1. Mt Tibrogargan 236 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.946573, -26.927259

Approach:© (gremlin)

Travelling north after taking the 'Glasshouse Mountains' Tourist Route off the Bruce 'Highway', drive for 6.5 km to a L turn onto Caves Ln, marked 'Forestry Nursery' (before reaching the turn-off for the Glasshouse Township). Take it. Take second L under the railway bridge onto Evans Rd, then turn L again onto Berteaus Rd. Follow this with the nursery initially on your right, and then on both sides of you. Take the signposted L-turn towards 'Mt Tibrogargan' (small knee-high green-and-yellow sign just beyond the nursery yard; sandy dirt track). You'll pass two more identical signs before reaching a carpark on the L (1.3km from the main road turnoff).

1.23.2. Mt Ngungun 159 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.934678, -26.898718

Description:

At 253m above sea level, 'Mt Ngungun' is the smallest of the main 'Glasshouse Mountains'. While there's no 'Mt Tibrogargan' style multipitch epics to be had here, there is nonetheless some great climbing on good rock. Add to that shadiness in summer, great views & easy accessibility, and it's easy to understand its popularity.

There are 6 distinct areas to climb at 'Mt Ngungun': the 'Lower Cliffs', the 'Upper Cliffs', 'The Sentinels', 'The Hidden Slabs', 'Babylon' & 'Andromeda'. The 'Lower Cliffs' are the most easily accessed and probably the most popular.

See also Lee Cujes' awesome "A Climber's Guide To The Glasshouses" at www.qurank.com/glasshouse

Approach:

'Mt Ngungun' is about 70 km, or a one hour drive, north of Brisbane.

Follow the Bruce Highway north and take the Steve Irwin Way turnoff 60km from Brisbane. Follow this for 10km before turning left into the Glasshouse Mountains township. Follow the road around as it doglegs over the railway line, becoming Coonowrin Rd as it does so. About 1km down the road is a right turn signposted for "Mt Ngungun". Take this turn and drive along Fullertons Rd until reaching the carpark about 1.5km from the intersection.

View driving map

Note that 'The Sentinels', 'The Hidden Slabs' and 'Babylon' are approached from the opposite side of the mountain.

1.23.3. Mt Beerwah 164 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.884591, -26.897101

1.23.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed) 39 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.910891, -26.898104

Description:

The Queensland Parks & Wildlife Service (http://www.derm.qld.gov.au/parks_and_forests) closed Mt Coonowrin to all public access in 1999 based on the recommendations of a geological report. A substantial fine applies if you are caught climbing here. The climbs below are listed for historical purposes and in the hopes that the mountain will one day be reopened.

1.23.5. Dwarfland 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport

Long/Lat: 152.936579, -26.943118

Unique Features And Strengths:

A sport crag of diminutive proportions!

Description:

'Dwarfland' is a small buttress hidden in the forest south of 'Mt Tibrogargan'. It's hard to find, there's only seven climbs and none of them are longer than 12m. Nonetheless it's well worth a visit. The climbs are well-protected & fun, it has that off-the-beaten-track feel and there's beautiful panoramas incorporating all the 'Glasshouse Mountains'.

All climbs have fixed hangers (FH in the descriptions) with double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. The approach reaches the cliff at its rightmost end. For this reason the climbs are listed from R to L (or west to east). The wall at 'No Biggie' & 'Elfin' is north-facing and has sun almost all day. The wall at 'Nadir', etc is east-facing and is partially shaded by trees in the morning, completely shady in the afternoon. 'Like Icecream For Spiders' gets some afternoon shade too.

Approach:

'Dwarfland' is about 70 km, or a one hour drive, north of Brisbane.

Follow the Bruce Highway north and take the Steve Irwin Way turnoff 60km from Brisbane. Follow this for 6km before turning left at the rest area, as for 'Mt Tibrogargan'. Turn left down Caves Rd at the railway bridge. Drive along this road (don't turn down Caves Lane) passing a road on the right leading towards Mt Tibberoowuccum at 2km (there's a National Parks sign here but it's not otherwise signposted). About 0.5km past this is a forestry road on the right with a 4WD track opposite on the left (GPS 29.938686 S, 152.933156 E). Park here.

View driving map

From here it's only 700m walk to the crag. However there's no track so it's a bushbash through waist high grass and over small creekbeds. It takes 15 minutes if you go the right way, longer if you get lost.

Walk about 100m along the 4WD track, then veer off into the bush to the left. Bushbash in a roughly SE direction over a saddle between two low hills. After 400m or so you should see the cliff up to your right.

If you have GPS it's much easier. Head towards 26.94302 S, 152.936354 E.

View walking map

1.24. Serpent 48 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.784093, -26.571909

Description:© (hotgemini)

Serpent began as a sport crag for summer climbing, and as a testing ground for those wanting to get accustomed to steeper ground. Many of the routes rely totally on bolt protection with fixed hangers, but that does not mean that we have ignored good natural gear. Therefore a selection of medium to large wires, small to medium cams and one or two larger pieces if so required for routes like 'Minotaur' won't go astray.

A 50m rope will suffice for most of the routes, but a 60m will do all the routes while also making rapping easier. About 10 quickdraws will be heaps and a couple of shoulder length slings to reduce drag. A handful of removable keyhole hangers will also be needed, for some routes still sport a carrot or two. All routes have lower-off rap stations, although some are shared.

When you reach a lower-off, please adhere to the international silent rule and place your own carabiners/quickdraws to top rope or work a route, otherwise the fixed gear is worn out very quickly and suddenly becomes a concern. When simply rappelling or lowering just the once, by all means use the fixed gear.

The trachyte at 'Serpent' is very sound and most routes here have had plenty of traffic. The friction is good and the features quite amazing, but this is rockclimbing and a loose block or two may still be encountered, so take care.

Useful Info: This guidebook is mainly comprised of infomation from Lee Cujes & Darrin Carters Qurank Guide. Some small changes and updates of new routes have been added by Matt Schimke. Topo's coming soon.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Serpent is located in the Blackall Range, NW of Nambour. Allow two hours travel time from suburban 'Brisbane'. Driving north from 'Brisbane' on the Bruce 'Highway', take the Eumundi-Noosa Road exit. At the roundabout, take the Eumundi-Kenilworth Road and travel north alongside the main highway for a few minutes until it veers left (west). Continue along this for approximately 22km to Gheerulla State Forest (signposted). Turn left onto Sam Kelly Road (dirt).

The camping area is about two kilometres from the entrance.

To park for climbing, stop at about 1.7km at the large red gum with an old survey marker carved into it. Park in the small area just before the tree on your right, facing the direction you drove in (hard to see).

The walk should take around 25 minutes, give or take, depending on fitness level. Follow the track which crosses the stony creekbed and leads to an intersection of walking track and motorbike track. Go straight ahead on a foot-track until you reach another intersection with a 4WD vehicle track. Turn right and walk along this dirt road for a few minutes until you see a large fallen tree with a prominent saw-cut end facing you (left side of road). You'll note a well-worn path leading uphill. Go up this. This track intersects with a newer, cut-in switchbacking path. If you choose to follow the switchback track (longer but easier), ensure you leave it (break left) at the green hiking-trail signpost, and keep going directly up the ridge on the original foot track. Eventually you'll spy the black rock of 'Serpent Wall'.

1.24.1. Serpent Wall 29 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport,? and other styles

Description:

A nice area with a great variety of climbing styles and grades. Still much more room for development for the strong.

1.24.2. The Lookout 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

A small buttress located above and to the left of Serpent (above Crimes And Punishment). From the left hand end of Serpent, walk uphill on a vague track for about 60m. Towards the top of the hill it’s possible to cut back right along a small terrace beneath a smooth and compact small wall with a slab at its base. Two excellent routes exist here to date.

1.24.3. Circus Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad,? and Sport

Description:

From the left hand end of Serpent, follow vague track uphill passing the turnoff for The Lookout. Continue along the base of the massif itself. Approximately 200m from Serpent will be a right facing corner starting from the ground with a wide crack and a slab to its right. Climb up the fixed rope up to large tree and then another rope leads L along a small ledge (care!). Ferris Wheel starts from this ledge. Follow more fixed line to Circus Wall proper.

1.24.4. Bullet-Hard Buttress 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

Small section of wall right next to the walking track, about 50m before you get to Shotgun Wall. These routes get shade before Shotgun, so are good for early afternoon.

1.24.5. Shotgun Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport,Trad and ?

Description:

From the left hand end of Serpent, follow worn track uphill along the base of the massif for approximately 400m. You will pass the access point for Circus Wall on your right (rope leading up slab). You’ll also pass Bullet-Hard Buttress with its couple of bolted lines. About 50m past this is Shotgun Wall. At the R-hand end of this wall, an arching crackline is found. This is the start of Semi Auto. Continue along to the first pocketed orange streak. This is Pump Action. Walk a little further up onto a raised platform. There is a fixed line on your L down a gully to access other routes.

1.25. Mt Coolum 79 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 153.086891, -26.563009

Unique Features And Strengths:

Kneebars!

Description:

There's not many other crags in south east Queensland where you can climb in the shade in summer. Because of this, local climbers have been almost forced to climb here, regardless of ability. And given there's not any easy routes at the cliff, Mt Coolum is transforming the local climbing populace into steep-thugging, kneebar-wielding, sloper-crushing mutants! Projects of yesteryear are today's warm-up's and today's projects are, well, futuristic!

Unlike many other crags of this type, the local scene is friendly, welcoming and encouraging. Come and join us for a dangle!

Access Issues:

Access to Mt Coolum is under strict Ranger guidelines. If we obey the rules, then climbing here will continue.

The rules are:

• No new routes outside the cave (bolted or otherwise)
• No routes up though the area where the falcons are
• Minimize impact and presence (i.e. no loud noise!)
• Continue to clean up our mess and the mess of others
• No building steps or paths
• Make an effort to clean chalk off holds
• Do not leave quickdraws on routes below the height of the tallest stick-clip. Leaving no draws is encouraged.

Approach:

One and a half hours (130 km) north of Brisbane. Up the Bruce Highway. Exit L and under after the Ettamogah Pub onto the Sunshine Coast Motorway. Nearing Mooloolaba, take the Noosa exit (not Mooloolaba), pass over the Maroochy river (first sight of the mountain on the bridge). Take the airport exit and keep going straight toward the coast. After the IGA turn L on Quarry Rd, one street before Hyatt Coolum. Follow your nose and park in the main National Park car park.

There are two track options to get to the cliff. The best (which avoids an obvious looking 'climbers trail' appearing on the general tourist track) is the separate trail from the tourists (see red line in the overview topo below). Head to the southern end of carpark and follow the fire trail South. After about 200m a narrow track breaks off R, follow this up to an old road then veer left into the quarry. Keep going uphill, the tracks lead up to the huge cave on the South East side (quite well worn, 10 minutes tops).

Ethic:

The cave has been largely developed in the last 10 years. It is preferable to avoid cramping of routes. We value our relationship with the National Park and expect all users to respect this. It is essential not to disturb the wildlife and stay on the track to limit our impact.

1.26. Mt Ninderry 59 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.993413, -26.552727

Description:

Mt Ninderry is an access-sensitive area. Some walls suitable for sport climbing are currently under development by a handful of individuals. If you climb here, bring a helmet, play it safe, and please tread lightly and quietly! Oh and BURY YOUR SHIT in the woods people!

1.27. Noosa National Park 51 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,? and Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.107732, -26.390157

Description:© (hotgemini)

Climbing in Noosa started in late 88 with the discovery of Cook's County and the Devils 'Cauldron'. Trad climbing is done in these two areas as bolts are not needed. The Boiling Pot is a great place for bouldering with easy to difficult problems. No routes have been climbed here. 'Granite Bay' has some nice looking boulders just waiting to be climbed with problems from V0 to V6+.

Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains low key.

1.27.1. Cook's County 22 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 153.116935, -26.395489

Description:© (Matt Schimke)

A small sandstone crag, with an easy access and a nice position. This place makes a great summer crag as there is almost always a breeze and is in the shade in the afternoon. Note that the routes on the right side of the cliff can not be accessed at high tide due to water flooding the area. All of the climbs require the belayer to find a suitable tree and bring up a second. Helmets are recomended for climber and belayer, as there is quite a bit of loose rock on the topouts.

Here is a link to a Tide Chart for Sunshine beach.

History: There used to be a route called Hungover Fisherman (19) that was on a pillar, but in a storm the pillar fell over so the climb no longer exists. Also with the pillar no longer there, the route 'No Horizontal Moves' is no longer contrived.

Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains low key.

Approach:© (Matt Schimke)

The cliff is located at the north end of Sunshine beach. Go through the back streets and along to the end of Seaview Terrace and park here. Head north along the beach to the headland. Either walk along the rocks to access or head up the obvious walking track up the hill and take the the track leading down to the cliff.

Routes are listed left to right.

1.27.2. Devils Kitchen 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 153.118996, -26.391398

Unique Features And Strengths:

A cross between Tasmania's Freycinet and Mount Wellington. Super grippy rock from low angle through to overhanging with roofs with great trad protection. A must climb area!

Description:

All routes were intended to be climbed as pure crack climbs, hands and feet where possible. Using holds outside the crack will make the climbs as easy as you wish. Variant grades on average are approximately 2 to 3 grades lower, sometimes more. Belay Stations at the base of the cliffs have excellent protection. Sea cliffs are inherently dangerous due to the constant weathering of the rock which can alter the routes from time to time. Minimal cleaning has been done on the routes to maintain minimal impact. Only the necessary loose rock has been removed on the routes. All routes can be lead in the traditional way or belayed from the top if you don’t have the trad gear, skills, or confidence to lead.

Access Issues:

Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains minimal impact and low key. The Westpac Helicopter and Surf Life Saving patrol this area, be friendly. An interesting experience climbing while a rescue helicopter watches. This area is not tide dependant as the Devils Cauldron or the Devils Training Ground but it is swell dependant. A 2ft-3ft swell at Sunshine Beach and low wind is fine. If in doubt look at the Sunshine Beach Surf cam. "http://www.coastalwatch.com/camera/cameras_large.aspx?cam=600&state=QLD&camName=Sunshine Beach" In the tidal area depending on swell, wind, and tide the base of these climbs may be wet and extremely slippery. As you get out of the tidal spray area the rock is superb! Even when it wet.

Approach:

Go through the back streets and along to the end of Seaview Terrace and park here. Head north along the beach until you reach the Costal Track, follow this track until you see the grassy headland. Love those stairs.

Ethic:

Trad, no need for chalk.

1.27.3. Granite Bay 0 routes in Area

Description:© (Oliver.Rickford)

Big Granite Boluders are found here. Gets quite hot during the day, so afternoon climbing is probably best, then cool off with a swim at the beach.

Approach:© (Oliver.Rickford)

Park at Noosa and walk along the path (coastal track) until you reach 'Granite Bay'. Then simply walk down the steps then along the beach to the boulders.

1.27.4. Boiling Pot 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

1.28. Mt Tinbeerwah 49 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.974871, -26.389602

1.28.1. Main Wall 42 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:© (hotgemini)

Full guide available here: http://www.qurank.com/guides/Guide_Tinbeerwah.pdf

1.28.2. Lower Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:

A short wall of slabby moderate-grade sport routes. Cooler and shadier than the 'Main Wall', it also stays wet for longer.

All bolts are carrot bolts (BRs in the descriptions) so bring bolt plates. Most, though not all, climbs have rap stations.

Climbs are listed from left to right.

Approach:

The 'Lower Wall' is below the leftmost (small) end of the 'Main Wall'. From the base of the 'Main Wall', follow the vague track that heads downhill just right of the 'Me And My Dog' clearing. The track soon reaches the 'Lower Wall'. Continue along the cliffline until arriving at a clearing where the bolted climbs start.

1.29. Point Glorious 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,Trad and ?

Description:

Beautiful views and picnic area are on offer and a small amount of nice climbs on good rock.

Access Issues:

Point Glorious is located in the Yandina Hinterland. To get there, you must first drive through the township of Yandina and follow Cooloolabin Rd for about 15 minutes, until you spot buckby road on the right. Take this turn off and follow the signs marked "Point Glourius". 15 minutes off road

1.30. Mt Cooroora 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.837970, -26.373573

Description:

So far, adventure sport climbing on rock of variable quality. Single and multi-pitch. Quality hardware – fixed hangers and U-bolts. No carrots!

What to bring • 15 quickdraws plus the usual slings and screwgates. • Wear a helmet climbing and belaying. There is plenty of loose rock. • Bring two ropes. One 60m for leading with another of at least 50m for double-rope abseils. • Bring mozzie repellent and sunscreen.

Summer day trip beta 8:00am: Leave Brisbane driving north 9:40am: Toilet and food stop in Pomona 9:50am: Walk up to cliff 10:10am: Jug a fixed line (if you're lucky) to the upper ledge, or climb one of the routes (in the sun) 10:45am-3:00pm: Climb upper level routes in the shade 3:00pm: Rap to ground and climb lower level slab routes (in shade) 5:00pm: Walk out 7:15pm: Back in Brisbane

Approach:

The drive (nearly two hours from Bris) Drive north from Brisbane ~150km on the Bruce Highway past Cooroy, turn R at Pioneer Rd (pull over here for a good view of the cliff). Follow signs to Pomona. From the main street of Pomona, turn L at the main roundabout, then L again (Hospital St) then R on Mountain St. Follow for a minute or so. Park at the picnic shelter at the Mt Cooroora Park.

The walk in (12 minutes) • Walk across the road, don’t go up the “hiking trail” instead go down the old road though the gully and gate up to old quarry (150m) • Join road veering L, follow. (150m) • Junction. Go straight. Down through gully and up. (200m) • Turn R at fire break road, follow. (250m) • Barbed wire gate over road. Don’t cross. Go up R following fence to spur (fallen timber). (130 steps) • Up spur through she-oaks. (50 steps) • Contour L glimpsing the cliff ahead. Watch carefully to stay on vague track, crossing three gullies. (250m) • Hit the rock apron and walk L to locate 45m high multicoloured slab. (50 steps)

History:

Often eyed but rarely attempted. The seemingly poor quality of the rock and the lack of trustworthy natural protection has thwarted most attempts at climbing here previously. A three pitch free and aid route was established in 1975 by Robert Staszewski & Fred From but is now rusted and overgrown. Adam Donoghue did an “easy and pretty crappy” natural route in mid 90s, details unrecorded. Lee & Sam Cujes attempted a ground-up route on the North Faces in 2003 but bailed before the summit. JJ O’Brien and party rapped into a stance somewhere on the (sunny) North Faces and climbed out via a nice crackline they called “Not The King Of The Mountain”.

1.31. Maidenwell 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.815166, -26.849808

1.31.1. Temp 7 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Boulder

1.32. Brooyar 186 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.522016, -26.140300

Description:© (hotgemini)

Primarily short steep single pitch sandstone climbing. Alot of the imformation here is from Lee Cujes qurank guide.

Useful Info: Camping at glastonbury creek is $4.50/night as of 28/02/06, previously there was a 'pay and display' however this is NO LONGER AVAILABLE and you should book online through the terrible QNPWS online booking system. Gympie has food/alcohol/in-breeding/basic camping supplies but no climbing stores.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Brooyar is around 20 minutes northwest of gympie, which is a regional city around 2.5 hours north of brisbane. The most straightforward access is to take the main highway north from town, take the well signposted turn-off for the wide bay highway (the next town is kilkivan) then after about 2.85km turn left onto petersen road.

Petersen road turns to dirt after about 1.6km and then begins a meandering path to the crags and campsite. Follow the main road and you should get there fine, the best map of the region shows that the side roads lead to an area labelled 'here be dragons'.

After (very) roughly 2km, you'll come to crest with another well travelled road turn to the right and continuing uphill, follow this to the crags or alternatively going straight ahead takes you towards the wonderful glastonbury creek camping area.

If you go straight ahead to the campground after about another 1km you'll come to a roughly triangular intersection, turn left for the campsite, straight ahead is an alternative route back to gympie if you know the way.

1.32.1. Black Stump Buttresses 30 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.525079, -26.140317

Description:© (hotgemini)

This area is made up of five small buttresses, and the safest scree slope is central. Take the scree with large fallen tree running all the way down it. Take care as some of the rocks are loose. All routes have been cleaned but some lichen and loss rock may still be encountered.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

This next crag is 600m from Eagles Nest (if Eagle's Nest is the last crag you come to). Drive up the hill and you will see a large black tree stump on your R, park somewhere here. The crag is on the same side as existing crags and is very close to the road.

1.32.2. Terracotta Warrior 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

An interesting little micro crag in the wilderness. Drive 750m north of the main crags and park near a road heading off to the right. Forge west into the bush and follow the cairns. Bring insect repellent!!

1.32.3. Hanuman's Hangout 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport

Long/Lat: 152.524654, -26.141253

Description:© (hotgemini)

Follow the bottom of the hill you were about to start driving up, you will notice boulders up high. When the boulders are tallest, head downhill and will soon find yourself on top of the overhang, 200-250 metres off the road. Scree is to the R if facing away from the road. Some old routes exist with carrots at the bottom of the scree these are easy generic 'Brooyar' climbing, no info.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

The first new crag is 300m past Eagle's Nest as you head away from the campground. Park at the bottom of the slope as you go to start uphill again. The crag is on the same side as existing crags.

1.32.4. Eagle's Nest 56 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad,Sport and ?

Long/Lat: 152.524299, -26.142222

Description:© (hotgemini)

The largest crag at brooyar both in number of climbs and in height, with the main wall some 45 metres in height.

Numerous routes offer long moderate climbs to short crimpy overhung affairs in the mid-20s.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Park at the large carpark immediately adjacent to the lookout. The most direct access to the climbing is to walk back down the road towards the campground about 50 metres and then follow the light footpad to the cliffs.

1.32.5. Green Lane 27 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport,Trad

Long/Lat: 152.523942, -26.143228

Description:© (hotgemini)

A great small crag with a real intimate and cosy feel. Lots of enjoyably varied and intricate climbs in the low 20s.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

About 100 metres past point pure coming from the campground. Greene road turns off to the left, park off to the side near this intersection but DO NOT go down Greene ROAD. Instead follow the small footpad past the sign indicating the Green lane abseiling points.

1.32.6. Hammerhead Rock 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport

Long/Lat: 152.522386, -26.144373

Description:

Short bun fun routes on a mini crag accessed by walking down Green LA road. Its the obvious outcrop on the left after about 500m.

1.32.7. Point Pure 41 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.524425, -26.144975

Description:© (hotgemini)

A varied and good-quality crag with numerous moderate routes and easy access.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Park in the large, obviously signed 'Point Pure' look-out carpark, walk 500 metres to the look-out, turn left and follow path around to gully and into the right-most end of the crag.

1.32.8. The Wolf's Lair 9 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport,Trad

Long/Lat: 152.531867, -26.147938

Description:© (hotgemini)

Good short and steep climbing, with mostly better rock quality than many 'Brooyar' crags. It has little future potential and is limited by the combination of a largely blank lower overhanging section leading to an unpleasant meander through the lichen on the upper section.

All bar one of the current routes follow weaknesses through the enjoyable overhung lower section and finish at a lower-off.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Park at faint fire road that disappears sharply right as you drive up from the campground (marked with cairn).

Follow line of cairns down sandy descent to the right end of the cliff and either traverse across narrow sand covered ledge or head lower and re-ascend to the height of the climbs.

1.32.9. Gymp Crag 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport

Long/Lat: 152.534265, -26.149786

Description:© (hotgemini)

The 'Gymp Crag' can be found between Wolf's Lair and the Rain Cave, and the parking spot is 1.42km from 'Point Pure'. Park, and forge directly away from the road. If you find yourself on top of some rock, head downhill (scattered boulders) and around R passing a pocketed wall.

1.32.10. The Rain Cave 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 152.536345, -26.150921

Description:© (hotgemini)

This small area is 1.5km from 'Point Pure' and is partly visible from the road off to the R. Park off the road before the yellow "S - curves" road sign and walk up R toward the rocky outcrop. Walk down around this to encounter a large roof with solid huecos and fins. Superb roof bouldering with great landings are to be found here, even when it's pouring rain, which is the area's main drawcard. None of the following problems use the bottom ledge.

1.33. Agnes Waters 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Boulder,Trad

Long/Lat: 151.910729, -24.207631

1.34. Rockhampton 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.495125, -23.373869

1.34.1. Play Pen 9 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.34.2. Rosslyn Bay 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

1.35. Bowen 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.232617, -20.031366

1.35.1. Queens Bay 13 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

1.35.2. Coral Bay 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

1.35.3. Horseshoe Bay 20 routes in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

1.35.4. Murray Bay 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

1.35.5. Mother Beddick 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.36. Townsville 916 routes in Crag

Summary:

Boulder,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.848164, -19.241162

1.36.1. Mt Stuart 273 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Approach:© (cglassy99)

'Mt Stuart'

1.36.2. Castle Hill 38 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

1.36.3. West End Quarry 9 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Description:

Man I must have been desperate to climb. Super choss! Take helmet and body armour.

Approach:© (cglassy99)

West End

1.36.4. James Cook University 24 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.36.5. Kissing Point 32 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.36.6. Magnetic Island 40 routes in Area

Summary:

Boulder,?

1.36.7. The Cutting 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Boulder,?

1.36.8. Fredericks Peak 57 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Sport and Trad

Description:

Climbing of all types (top rope, easy, hard, trad, sport, single and multi-pitch) in a very adventurous and remote-feeling location, despite its relatively easy access from nearby Townsville.

An excellent guide by Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou is available on www.qurank.com.

Approach:© (Phil Box)

A bit of a walk uphill but definitely worth the effort. A bit hard to get to if it has been raining. The road goes to pudding after rain ie the wet season. Lotsa trad and sport climbing.

1.36.9. Harvey's Marbles 421 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

1.36.10. Palleranda 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

1.36.11. Crystal Creek 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

1.36.12. Palm Creek 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Boulder

Description:

Palm Creek Eco Tourist Park, 40mins south of Townsville along the highway. Walking track found at back of park. 3.5km walk to bouldering area follow track left when it splits. (Make sure to get permission off property owners who live on site.)

1.37. The Citadel 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Description:

Guide available on www.qurank.com

1.38. Cairns 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 145.734789, -16.913969

1.38.1. Barron Gorge 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.38.2. Glacier Rock 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.38.3. Barron Falls 13 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.38.4. Davies Creek 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.38.5. Trinity Beach 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport,?

Long/Lat: 145.700028, -16.789224

1.39. Innisfail 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.39.1. North Barnard Islands 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.39.2. Browns Beach 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.39.3. Mourillian Harbour 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.39.4. Etty Bay 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.40. Turkey Hill 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.41. Coral Beach 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Boulder

1.42. Emerald Creek 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

1.43. Moomank Buttress (private land) 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.44. Tank Traps 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

1.45. Mount Isa (Djarra Road) 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 139.493432, -20.730983

1.46. Springsure 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.47. Mt. Lindesay 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,?

1.48. Mt Emu 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.49. Test Area 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Boulder,? and Sport

1.49.1. Harvey's Marbles (to be merged) 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Boulder