Region Guide for Germany

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Germany 5,765 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 10.897201, 50.466362

Description:

route databases (in German) at:

http://www.dav-felsinfo.de

http://www.kletterdorf.de

1.1. Cologne (Köln) 124 routes in Region

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 6.968529, 50.936843

1.1.1. Hohenzollernbrücke 56 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.1.2. Niehler Kaimauer 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.1.3. Amsterdamer Straße 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.1.4. Mülheimer Brücke 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.1.5. Hindenburgpark 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.1.6. Eifelwall 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.1.7. Zoobrücke 0 routes in Crag

1.1.8. Südbrücke 0 routes in Crag

1.1.9. Steele 0 routes in Crag

1.1.10. Wappenturm 0 routes in Crag

1.1.11. Rheinkilometer 491 0 routes in Crag

1.1.12. Kickley 0 routes in Crag

1.1.13. Hirzley 0 routes in Crag

1.1.14. Burgfelsen 0 routes in Crag

1.1.15. Hagerturm 0 routes in Crag

1.1.16. Bruchhauser 0 routes in Crag

1.1.17. Hönnetal 0 routes in Crag

1.2. Frankenjura 5,065 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 11.340655, 49.804539

1.2.1. Bamberg 889 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

1.2.2. Bayreuth 1,063 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

1.2.3. Forchheim - Pegnitz 1,868 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

1.2.4. Nurnberg 945 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

1.2.5. Ingolstadt 0 routes in Crag

1.2.6. Regensburg 121 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport

1.2.7. Kaitersberg 179 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport

1.3. Garmisch Partenkirchen 23 routes in Region

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3.1. Oberammergau 6 routes in Region

Summary:

1.3.2. Füssen 15 routes in Region

Summary:

1.3.3. Wettersteingebirge 1 route in Region

Summary:

1.3.4. Karwendelgebirge 1 route in Region

Summary:

1.4. Südpfalz 153 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 7.822263, 49.173970

1.4.1. Annweiler 66 routes in Region

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

1.4.2. Bärenbrunnertal 41 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 7.850109, 49.153175

1.4.3. Dahn 12 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad,? and Sport

Long/Lat: 7.775184, 49.138091

1.4.4. Busenberg 2 routes in Region

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.5. Rinnthal & Wilgartswiesen 20 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 7.870739, 49.209946

1.4.6. Neustadt / Wstr. 12 routes in Region

Summary:

All Unknown

1.5. Saxony 154 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 14.328594, 51.004383

1.5.1. Sächsische Schweiz 150 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 14.124930, 50.898965

Unique Features And Strengths:

THE birthplace of free climbing: A lifetime of climbing with stout ethics among stunning sandstone towers - not for the faint hearted.

Description:

The Elbe Sandstone Mountains with their German part (Sächsische Schweiz = Saxon Switzerland) and the Czech counterpart (České Švýcarsko - Czech Switzerland) have long been a epicenter of climbing development (see History). Today, luckily the masses avoid the area mainly because of its grim reputation and stout ethics (see ethics), which require solid climbing skills, some modesty or someone giving advise on the route - even better, all of these. However, with roughly 1100 free standing rock formations and about 20000 routes to climb, this area is a must for the adventurous climber. Late spring till early autumn is the best time for climbing, although the enthusiast may also enjoy south faces on sunny winter days. These will be too hot in summer, but shady faces can always be found. The standard guidebook is the 6-volume "Kletterführer Sächsische Schweiz" by Heinicke (2002 - out of print). Route descriptions in compacted German only. The alternative "Kompakt-Kletterführer Sächsische Schweiz" uses a cryptic sign language which is non-language specific. The "Topoführer Sächsische Schweiz" has only limited coverage, but lots of topos. If you don't have a local friend that can tell you if that VIIa is really VIIa or actually feels like VIIIb with ground fall potential, check http://www.teufelsturm.de with a huge route database and invaluable comments on many routes (in German, but with straightforward icons).

Access Issues:

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Approach:

The area is best reached from Dresden by commuter trains running every half an hour from Dresden (30 - 45 min). Depending on your destination, you can then continue by foot or use buses for the more remote areas, for which a car might be more convenient when you plan to return in the late hours. The more frequented areas are better avoided by car at the weekends, as lots of hikers can occupy the little parking the is. There a not many real roadside crags - be prepared to walk from 15 min (e.g. Falkenstein) up to 2 h (Hinterer Zschand).

Where To Stay:

Being a popular tourist destination, many villages boast boarding houses and smaller hotels. The Sächsische Bergsteigerbund, a subdivision of the German Alpine Club, maintains two huts (Ottomühle and Saupsdorf) which generally require reservation (discounts on membership). Camping may be permitted at the alpine huts (charged) or on the camping ground in the Kirnitzschtal (NW of Bad Schandau). Traditionally, climbers used to bivouac at the walls under overhangs (Boofe ['boa-feh]). This is still tolerated in designated places (Freiübernachtungsstelle). Tread extremely lightly, as anything else endangers this compromise: no fires, no littering, dig a hole.

Ethic:

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

• Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
• No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
• No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
• no chalk, no pof
• Sign the summit register.
• Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
• Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
• Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

History:

The Elbe Sandstone Mountains are probably the birthplace of modern freeclimbing and certainly one of the most historic climbing areas you can find. Not counting the Bronze-age settlement on Pfaffenstein nor the occassional remains of castles of robber-knight on some summits, climbing here dates back to the mid 19th century. In 1864, gymnasts from Bad Schandau ascended the Falkenstein. While their style (using ladders, thrown ropes and pick-axes) saw a few imitators, it soon became clear that what we today call "free-climbing" is the way to go. Oskar Schuster and Rudolf Fehrmann were among the driving forces to formulate the Saxonian climbing rules, as they still stand today (see ethics): no climbing onto anything "a cow could ascend" (ie only true summits), no progress on artificial holds, placing bolts only as the last resort. This visionary abstinence, born from a mixture of elitarism, boldness and an eye for conservation issues alike, helped to form a climbing standard that was unrivalled in the world for decades until the 1970ies. Milestones like Spannagelturm Perrykante (VIIb) by Oliver Perry-Smith (1906), Wilder Kopf Westkante (VIIIa) by Emanuel Strubich (1918), Frienstein Königshangel IXa by Fritz Eske (1965) and Amselspitze Schallmauer Xa (Bernd Arnold) are still testpieces for modern climbers - especially when you would climb with the equipment of the respective era. Saxonian climbers like Fehrmann and Strubich also left their footprints in Alps. In the 1930ies, Fritz Wiessner brought Saxonian ethics to the USA, where it evolved to modern freeclimbing and finally spread over the world. The two World Wars took their toll among climbers - but also the crags - a great part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains became part of Chechoslovakia, which made climbing trips for climbers crossing the border a little more complicated. During the Socialist era, free traveling to western countries was banned. Arguably, this may also have contributed to the rise of climbing difficulties: climbers like Karl-Heinz Gonda, Bernd Arnold, Mathias Gäbler and Manfred Vogel established benchmarks of their time. However, in the recent decades the strict gound-up ethic made the creation of climbs at the top end of the scale increasingly difficult if not impossible. Already, some first ascenders have been suspected to bend the rules; and debated routes have even been removed. Every few years, the controversy between traditionalist (defending the status quo) and reformers (wishing to allow climbing on currently forbidden walls and rappel-bolting) boils up again. So far, the tradition stood its ground, supported by the National Park administration, who also favours restrictive climbing rules. Whatever the future may bring, with roughly 20000 routes there is a lifetime of climbing - and despite being considered "outclimbed" for first ascents long ago, some enthusiast still add some hundred routes each year.

1.5.2. Zittauer Gebirge 0 routes in Crag

1.5.3. Steinicht 0 routes in Crag

1.5.4. Greifensteine 0 routes in Crag

1.5.5. Katzensteingebiet 0 routes in Crag

1.5.6. Hohburger Berge 0 routes in Crag

1.5.7. Königshainer Berge 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport

Long/Lat: 14.842370, 51.196924

Unique Features And Strengths:

Granite climbing in an abandoned quarry area, mostly on artificial faces; some natural pinnacles and boulders. Some deep water soloing possible.

Description:

While the newly developed climbs have a sport character, most older lines on the natural formations can require trad gear.

Access Issues:

The area is protected (Naturschutzgebiet). Climbing is tolerated, keep your impact to a minimum (as you should always do). Bivouacing is not permitted.

Approach:

Follow A4/E40 east towards Poland. ~ 25 km before Görlitz, take exit 92 at Nieder-Seifersdorf. Via Arnsdorf, follow the road east towards Königshain, where the quarry museum and protection area Königshainer Berge is signposted.

1.5.8. Müglitztal 0 routes in Crag

1.5.9. Wolkenstein 0 routes in Crag

1.5.10. Mengelsdorfer Forst 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

very small granite crag of minor importance

1.5.11. Neißetal 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

small crag with 0f five dispersed granite cliffs

1.5.12. Schülerbusch 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Former quarry on sometimes brittle rock

1.5.13. Koitsche 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

small abandoned quarry

1.5.14. Hochwald 0 routes in Crag

1.5.15. Lausche 0 routes in Crag

1.5.16. Karasekhöhle 0 routes in Crag

1.5.17. Eastern Saxony, small crags 0 routes in Region

Description:

small crags or cliffs of Eastern Saxony

1.6. Thuringia 5 routes in Region

Summary:

All Sport

Long/Lat: 11.417411, 50.595780

1.6.1. Eisenach 0 routes in Crag

1.6.2. Bad Liebenstein 0 routes in Crag

1.6.3. Tabarz 0 routes in Crag

1.6.4. Schwarzatal 0 routes in Crag

1.6.5. Döbritzer Kalkfels 0 routes in Crag

1.6.6. Tambach-Dietharz 0 routes in Crag

1.6.7. Auersberg 0 routes in Crag

1.6.8. Hansbachtal 0 routes in Crag

1.6.9. Winterstein 0 routes in Crag

1.6.10. Lauchagrund 0 routes in Crag

1.6.11. Asbachtal 0 routes in Crag

1.6.12. Moosbachtal 0 routes in Crag

1.6.13. Kanzlersgrund 0 routes in Crag

1.6.14. Gehlberg 0 routes in Crag

1.6.15. Ilmenau 0 routes in Crag

1.6.16. Elgersburg 0 routes in Crag

1.6.17. Steinbruch am Bocksberg 0 routes in Crag

1.6.18. Saaletal 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 11.414282, 50.599683

1.6.19. Rabenschüssel 0 routes in Crag

1.7. Stuttgart 9 routes in Region

Summary:

All Unknown

1.7.1. Donautal 8 routes in Region

Summary:

1.7.2. Other (Andere) 1 route in Region

Summary:

1.7.3. Ostalb 0 routes in Region

1.7.4. Blautal 0 routes in Region

1.8. Hannover 48 routes in Region

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 9.653547, 51.964629

1.8.1. Hameln - Eschershausen Area 39 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 9.653547, 51.964629

1.8.2. Goettinger Wald 2 routes in Region

Summary:

1.8.3. Goslar - Thale Area 0 routes in Region

1.8.4. Holzen 7 routes in Region

Summary:

1.9. Berlin 11 routes in Region

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 13.371347, 52.519033

Description:

Despite the complete absence of natural rock formations, Berlin still offers some remedies for the vertically-addicted: artificial climbing walls, gyms, chiselled bunkers and semi-legal buildering. With more than 100 places to climb, you should be able to get pumped. A nice overview of all locations can be found at http://www.klettern-in-berlin.de (in German).

1.9.1. Wuhletalwächter 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Unique Features And Strengths:

One of the highest outdoor walls in Berlin

Description:

Made of recycled concrete slabs and equipped with some additional handholds, the Wuhletalwächter is one of the highest outdoor walls in Berlin (17.5 m). Built in the early 1990s, the concrete tends to get greasy if not already covered by grafitti in the lower parts. (One of the highest outdoor walls in Berlin).

Access Issues:

managed by the local alpine club (http://alpinclub-berlin.de/)

Approach:

Havemannstraße (see also http://klettern-in-berlin.de/klettern.php?nr=7&aktion=showone )

1.10. Mainz 86 routes in Region

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

1.10.1. Kirner Dolomiten 0 routes in Crag

1.10.2. Rotenfels 0 routes in Crag

1.10.3. Morgenbachtal 52 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.10.4. Lorsbach 34 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.10.5. Nikolas Fels 0 routes in Crag

1.11. Ettringen 67 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 7.229995, 50.340824

Description:

dedicated website (in German): http://www.klettern-ettringen.de/

1.11.1. grosse wand 1 route in Crag

Summary:

1.11.2. mordor 66 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.12. Odenwald 3 routes in Region

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 8.933527, 49.746999

1.12.1. Hainstadt 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.12.2. Silberwald 0 routes in Area

1.12.3. Stiefelhütte 0 routes in Area

1.12.4. Ziegelhausen 0 routes in Area

1.13. Black Forest 0 routes in Region

1.13.1. Freiburg 0 routes in Region

1.14. Allgäu 0 routes in Region

1.15. Berchtesgaden 5 routes in Region

Summary:

All Unknown

1.15.1. Reiteralpe/ Oberjettenberg 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.15.2. Watzmann 0 routes in Crag

1.15.3. Reiteralpe 0 routes in Crag

1.15.4. Gollmassiv 0 routes in Crag

1.15.5. Achental 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.16. Harz Mountains 0 routes in Region

1.17. Central East 12 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad,Sport

Long/Lat: 12.639890, 51.595718

Description:

Not blessed with too much natural rock formations, Germany's Central East still offers some hidden gems like stunning aretes in shutdown quarries or deep-water-soloing over crystal-clear water. Check out the guidebook (in German) "Rotgelbes Felsenland" by Gerald Krug (www.geoquest-verlag.de)

1.17.1. Löbejün 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,Trad

Long/Lat: 11.879852, 51.629931

Unique Features And Strengths:

Shutdown quarries with walls up to 40 m and some Deep Water solo options

Where To Stay:

Camping in Aktienbruch is tolerated. Keep it clean.

1.17.2. Petersberg 0 routes in Crag

1.17.3. Landsberg 0 routes in Crag

1.17.4. Hohburger Berge 0 routes in Crag

1.17.5. Leipziger Kletterschule 0 routes in Crag

1.17.6. Muldetal 0 routes in Crag

1.17.7. Kriebethaler Wände 0 routes in Crag

1.17.8. Rothstein 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport

Long/Lat: 13.407113, 51.557006

Description:

Only natural climbable cliff in the federal state of Brandenburg.