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The Conundrums

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Description

This area is directly above "The Wave" and is marked by a long black streak. Most routes are multi-pitch routes on grey and dark grey rock but the wall also features a great 5.13a (Cyclops) on its left side. In winter most of this wall stays in the shade all day.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Approach

Either hike over from TNT Wall or take another path passing the wave up the hill.

Ethic inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

First pitch has been bolted and partially cleaned to provide access to "The Vatican".

FA: Club Everest, 1964

Start "Sandra" then move right at the first palm tree to top-rope the smooth concave face.

FA: Elie Cheveux

Goes up the face of the dome following the thin crack left higher up.

FA: Jeff Jackson

Climbs the grey slab on the right side of Cyclops Dome.

FA: Cristina Wait

Old trad route that has been bolted. Follows the left trending crack.

FA: Annabel Raab

Another retro-bolted trad route.

BEWARE: This route is too long even for a 70m rope, lots of loose rock in the rappel, lots of friction, lots of spikey plants. I would stay away from this one.

To rap on one rope, use anchor from "Sin Soul" as an intermediate.

FFA: Rodman

FA: Magic Ed

FA: Tony Faucett & Rick Watson

FA: Tony Faucett & Rick Watson

Pitch 1 10a Pitch 2 10a Pitch 3 5.9

FA: Tony Faucett & Rick Watson

Might find 3-4 bolts per pitch, but should bring gear.

Route should be considered dangerous due to rock fall potential.

Warning Fixed Gear: Más bolts de los indicados en la guía.

1 5.9
2 5.10d
3 5.9
4 5.10b
5 5.10a
6 5.9

Climbs the big black streak on the eastern side of the canyon at the top right of the Conundrums crag. This climb is in the shade all day, so a good choice for a warm day. The route is quite popular and can get very overcrowded. Beware of the loose blocks on the final pitch, some are marked with white-painted skulls and have to be willfully avoided.

  1. 5.9+: 13 bolts, climb good rock with nice moves until a good belay ledge.

  2. 5.10d: 14 bolts, The technical crux of the climb. Can be done in a number of ways. Plenty of tiny crimps will get you thinking about how to pull the moves.

  3. 5.9: 8 bolts, Go left, up a ramp, the layback crux (very very well protected) will lead to a nicely exposed traverse back to the right to find a belay directly above the previous one. The metal cable is NOT safe to be used.

  4. 5.10b: 16 bolts, some gymnastic moves will lead you up this wonderful pitch. Great holds to a decent belay ledge.

  5. 5.10a: 9 bolts, very short pitch that can be linked with the previous (preferred if capable) or the next one. Climb up the dihedral and belay from the top of the right pillar.

  6. 5.9+: 20 bolts: Make your way through and around loose blocks, carefully avoiding the white-painted skulls.

The top out is not on the ridge (a small boulder problem might lead you to the ridge).

Use a 70 m rope. Rappel the route.

FA: Marko Steffen, Mehgan Curry & Kevin Nicastro

1 5.10a
2 5.11c
3 5.12a
4 5.11b
5 5.10d
6 5.10d
7 5.10c

First route just to te right of Pitch Black.

Pitch 1 (5.10a) 20m 6 bolts

Pitch 2 (5.11c) 23m 9 bolts(left), 13 bolts (right)

Pitch 3 (5.12a) 35m - [right variation 5.11a] 17 bolts

Pitch 4 (5.11b) 30m 13 bolts

Pitch 5 (5.11b) 30m 10 bolts

Pitch 6 (5.10d) 20m 13 bolts

Pitch 7 (5.10d) 30m 9 bolts

Pitch 8 (5.10c) 10m 5 bolts

Descent: Rapp the route using a 70m rope, caution rappeling 5th and 4th pitches, use a quickdraw at the traverse to keep straight with the line, or rapp straight down and at the end move to the left to get to the anchor. When rappeling the 3rd pitch consider getting to the start of the 12b pitch. Tie your knots.

Route should be considered dangerous due to rock fall potential.

FA: Alex Catlin & Geoff Fanaros

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Frank P. Madden

Date: 2022

ISBN: 979-8218024314

The latest guidebook to El Potrero Chico is now available in its third edition. This book has comprehensive detail of not just the routes but how and when to be there. Single pitch or multi-pitch, this book has it all. More great crag photos to help locate the spot you want to climb as well as plenty of topo photos to help you find all the routes you will want to climb. The new edition also has a new history, local history and geology section of the guidebook produced by local members of the community! There is also the long awaited index by grade! A comprehensive guidebook for all of El Potrero Chico, Las Ventanas de Mina (Crescent Moon Buttress and Culo de Gato), Grutas de García, La Popa and Boca de los Potrerillos. Including a couple newly developed crags called Narnia and SunnyVale, and more than a few new routes unpublished anywhere else. Has multi-pitch topo photos for the classic routes with pitch by pitch information.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 24 Apr
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