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Sunny Side 19 routes in Crag

  • Avg. Height: 23m
  • Style: All Sport
  • Ascents: 115
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Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsular are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. Technically neither of the agencies acknowledge climbing as a legitimate nature based activity! In reality, climbing is one of the main reasons visitors come to the Blueys. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Due to the 'nature' of the rock (and a recent fatality) bolting by visitors is discouraged (well, at least thats what people who reckon they own the place think. The rest of of us discourage shit bolting, not visitor's bolting). If you do need to 'top rope' then please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain. It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush! The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to esthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally its best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Routes

Route Grade Popularity Style
1 *** Seam at Left End

The first climb on the sunnside and one of the best. It can clearly be seen from shady side.
22
Sport 22m
2 ** Seamstress.

Boulder up the steep seam on gasons and very poor feet. Direct start to the 22 seam.

FA: ,

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2011
26
Sport 20m
3 * Heuco Line

The left line from the shared start.
23
Sport 15m
4 * Heuco Line extension
26
Sport 12m
5 * Red Incuts

Start as for 'Hueco Line', then follow the right line of bolts. Has its own lower offs now.
24
Sport 15m
6 ** Up the Middle

Great 24 to ledge, then the L-facing little corner above, all the way to the highest roof.

25
Sport 29m
7 ** Paralax error

Stick clip first bolt. Boulder move then big moves, cave is in, more big moves. Crux through bulg onto face moves. Half way break and continue left up 25 to top. Long and fun.
27
Sport 30m
8 * Boomy

Trends L, with a few bits of blocky boomy rock but apparently it's all solid ... now.

24
Sport 15m
9 Boomy extension - proj

looks very thin just above the Boomy anchor
Sport
10 *** The Awesome 25

Ultra classic
25
Sport 22m
11 Link 25 into 29

probably solid
26
Sport
12 ** The 29

Start up the 27 then head L
29
Sport
13 *** Reality Dysfunction

Ultra classic
27
Sport 22m
14 * The Righthand 25

Awkward corner to ledge. Watch for ledgefalls for the first few bolts off the ledge.

25
Sport 20m
15 Vertical Wall Left
23
Sport 35m
16 Vertical Wall Middle

Long !!. Has 1st set of lower offs about 2/3s of the way - stop here unless you have a 70m rope.
21
Sport 35m
17 Vertical Wall Right

The best of the trio here. Bit easier than its neighbour
20
Sport 20m
18 * Slip, Snap, Splash.

The climb name came about after a bit of an accident on the access waterfall. Climb the spaced U bolts to gain the slab and then climb the left hand line. Cruisy climb up this nice wall with a coupe tricky moves.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2012
18
Sport 30m, 15
19 Fly Fury

start as for slip snap splash for the first 3 bolts an then trend right and up an orange streak. long sling recommended on the 2nd bolt in traverse.

FA: Jay Trent, 2012
19
Sport

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