A high value wilderness area with Staghorns, Elkhorns, Crowsnests & one of the last areas in Qld., for the Brush Tailed Rock Wallaby. Requires good bush-walking & navigation skills.
About 5-600m of cliffs with quite varied climbing. The Main Wall is 90m high & Baby Buttress 15-20m. The Rhyolite is varied from soft to hard. Very trying access (5km walk in) & difficult navigation around the crag. Speed Buttress & Tough Mamma Wall at the far RH end, contain Frog quality cracks, but the question then arises: why drive & walk so far, for Frog quality routes when Frog is so much closer & easier?
Mobile phone reception is virtually nonexistent here. As of 2019 - Telstra has some coverage, Optus=a little, Vodafone =0. A 000 call connects with any carrier available. Have tick repellent with you: do a tick inspection at the crag & when you get back to the car. Some have encountered leeches here as well.
If driving from Boonah:
Drive past the Cotswold Rd. entrance to Maroon for another 7kms, crossing the Logan River, turn right onto Upper Logan Rd.
If driving from Rathdowney:
Take the Boonah-Rathdowney Rd. (State Route 93) till you arrive at Upper Logan Rd., on the left.
Maggie's Farm - Mt. Maroon - locality-1.jpg
Follow this for 4.5kms till you come to a T-intersection & turn left uphill for another 4kms till you come to Seidenspinner Rd. on the right. Turn up this dirt road for 2kms till you come to the Jurd Bridge crossing (Barney Creek).
Maggie's Farm - Maggie's Farm from Jurd Bridge
Park at the NP gate 500m beyond this. Walk in (5kms) along the fire-trail till the fire trail peters out at the flat grassy knoll below the cliffs:
Main Wall - Main Wall (Condemned Cell visible) from grassy knoll-enhanced
From here, a very steep bush-bash straight up through thick vegetation & big boulders. This will bring you to The Temple Of Golgotha. To get to the cliffs further right: walk diagonally Right, across the knoll & scramble up the steep, but open slopes, trending Right. This will bring you in to Mank Buttress.
If you want to camp nearby: Bigriggen off Upper Logan Rd. is idyllic with large, flat lawns, showers & a kiosk.
Please close the gate at the Jurd Bridge crossing. National Park = no pets or animals allowed.
First developed by Rick White & Ted Cais on a weekend in April 1972, with them sneaking away from a climber's meet at Frog. They returned the following w/e to blitz Baby Buttress and more over the ensuing months, establishing some 27 routes by the end of 1972 - a big year.
Named by Rick in his Dylan period and inspired by the (now removed ) farm house that stood in a clearing about 1km from the cliffs.
Back in those days, Rick & Ted could drive all the way to the grassy knoll below the cliffs. Later, QPWS expanded the Park boundary to the "Shalom Gate", then in 2006/2007 QPWS acquired some of the Jurd family farm land & expanded the NP boundary to the current gate, 500m from the Jurd Bridge.
Development continued by Rick through the 70s. Robert Staszewski established a lot of routes here, many with Joe Lynch. Mark Plenderleith established 3 sports routes here in the 90s. His bolted route on the Main Cliff (What Makes A Man Say I Do - 24), has been chopped. 2 bolted routes remain at Baby Buttress - the remainder are trad.
Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9780958079068
A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.
Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9377779499658
Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.
16 | ★ The Neb | ||
17 | ★★ Lethargy | ||
19 | ★★ Speed Crack |
Main Wall - Main Wall - routes left of Ground Effect
Temple of Golgotha - 'Slab' - boulder solo
Maggie's Farm - 'B' & 'C' start.jpg
Speed Buttress - Wall above Velocette to Widow Maker Cleft
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