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Port Chalmers Quarry

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Nice easy climbing for the first two pitches, then a fun crux at the start of the third pitch. The route can be a bit tricky to follow if you've never done it before. Check out the Dunedin Rock guide.

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OK, here’s the heads up on The Great Escape, a wonderful multi-pitch at Port Chalmers Quarry (the ClimbNZ description is inaccurate/misleading): Head up the short steep slope past the warning sign to the starting ledge. TGE follows the left line of bolts.

P1 **(g14, 20m, 8B): Head left to arete, tricky., then step R above the block and truncated tree to a nice slab. Up this to belay.

P2 ** (g14, 13m, 5B): Up the nose between the eyebrows (surely you can see the face), then traverse left to belay.

P3** (g15, 20m, 7B): Up the steep groove, then easy ground to finish up R side of apex of the quarry. Rap or walk off past Aotea and Chakrata walls.

Pick your morning to do this (sun til midday maybe, needs to be dry) in winter. Take a few extenders. The Army route shares the same start and has nice g15-16 climbing for 7metres before easy slabs to the P1 belay of TGE. Continue on easily to the second belay.

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Thu 20 Apr
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