Ascents in New River Gorge

Not 12b. Given 11d on MP, 24 Australian seems fair. I don’t have the reach for the “ single move” even with super high feet, but did multiple crimpy moves immediately right of the bolt that worked out well.

Nice enough on its own, but really a link up of two routes

Nice climb. I wore my thongs to belay Dave and had to explain joke

Much easier than all the 5.9 trad classics at NRG, could also be led on trad safely.

Fora short route it packed a punch. A gnarly warm up for me

Much easier than smooth operator. Quite nice.

Some amazing holds and a long journey on mostly TCUs and some finger/ thin hand pieces. Gear sometimes spaced.

Came back to do it, gave up my static beta and jumped after the crux traverse as it seemed more certain. Onsighted from 3rd bolt to end

Nice enough, I clearly need fist jam practice- this one actually fitted my fists

Thought a move on this was harder than either of the 5.9s to the left

Really liked this one despite the easy middle

Nice route, not as good as brolga etc though

Nice and long, a pain to descend.

We were meant to be having an easier day but got bored. Then it rained. Figured out a functional sequence to third bolt, then it’s all much easier. Hopefully will get back

Nice climb, 4 distinct sections with hands free rests. 11c on Mountain project and in guide book.

Ha ha, “ the fist crack” at the start was hard for me, ended up having to layback it to do it clean at some hard grade after trying all sorts of crazy moves. The rest of the route is great.

No one seems to do the end any more, full of cobwebs

Two goes, on lead, then top rope. Very cruxy, major issue getting to first decentpod with the negative 9 cm ape factor my right arm has. Not sure it’s worth further time. Nice line though.

Liked the finishing finger crack. Did not like move to arete.

Nice route, found near the start hardest, but probably height related due to steeper feet. The “ crux” was ok.

Great route, 5.10 c in guidebook. Cool mono and lots of good moves

Overhanging Fist crack- maybe if you have men hands, more like overhanging offwidth start. Didn’t even like the traverse around the corner or the crack to the top that much which were straightforward compared to start.

I wasn’t a fan. Hard to get out of sentry box type bit. The whole thing felt dirty and slippery.

What a great route. Steep and looks improbable.

Overhanging hand jams. My gloves both lost wrist strap but I hung in there

Route was pretty dirty, but good moves. Not sure I would lead it without checking out gear. It is there, but spaced.

My right shoulder just can’t handle V grooves any more. Had to change sequence at start. Rest of it was fine.

2nd Try. This thing is all time! Probably the most fun I've ever had climbing in the sun. The position is out of this world, as soon as you hit the arete you are above the tree line and climb about 35 ft on the arete with the most amazing view and the route tops out, how does it get any better! The only negative to this climb is the lack of bolts in the first section of climbing, not the most approachable for the 5.10 leader because of this. An incredible close to an amazing day of easy climbing, if every 5.10 was like this I would never feel the need to climb anything harder.

Wow, this might be as good as rock climbing gets. Incredible climbing from beginning to end with an amazing view from the chains. I can't imagine anything that would make this climb better. The new 1st bolt for a direct start is definitely a huge win for this route. The roof is classic, the crack is cool and everything in between is heaven. I'm stunned and overjoyed!

I thought this one was harder than the 5.8s and nowhere close to as enjoyable. Weird reachy crux at the 3rd quickdraw and then uninspiring wandery climbing after. Worth doing if you are 5.8 climber at this crag looking to do another pitch, but no one should do this climb before climbing the two 5.8s next door.

Really nice climbing, I'd probably think it was all time if it weren't for its neighbor. Fun fist crack to start and then continuous climbing over and around bulges. For the 5.8 climber, this is totally a route worth doing, but it leaves a bit to be desired for the more seasoned climber.

Interesting final moves made the route

Fun trad climb. #5 handy.

Some nice moves but so caked in chalk it was unpleasant, especially the final moves above the last bolt.

Found it easier than the route to the right, the grades could be reversed.