Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Rumney Bakery Wall | |||||
5.8 G | Mr Mailman
FA: Lee Hansche & Torie Kidd, Apr 2019 | 8m | |||
5.11a | Sport Moves
FA: Scott Stevenson, 1993 | ||||
5.10a | Golden Gloves
FA: Alan Cattabriga, 1993 | ||||
5.10d | Rookie Sensation
FA: Scott Stevenson, 1993 | ||||
Rumney The Parking Lot Wall | |||||
5.8 | Shemp Lives
Often wet. Has a large down/right facing corner -- climb up easyish ground, then move left around the corner and up. FA: Jim Shimberg, 2004 | 24m, 8 | |||
5.7 | Dead Sea Equestrian
Often wet. Climb a series of nice flakes up the usually wet rock. FA: Jim Shimberg, 2000 | 24m, 8 | |||
5.10b | ★ Red Sea Pedestrian
FA: Jim Shimberg, 1998 | 24m, 8 | |||
5.8 | ★ Squeeze My Lemon
Climb the line of glue-in bolts to the left of the big flake/chimney that "Glory Jean's" ascends. Anchors are hidden from the ground, but up and left of the (visible) anchors for "Glory Jean's". Route is often wet, but good climbing if dry. FA: Cliff Mask & Tim, 2000 | 24m, 8 | |||
5.7 | ★ Glory Jean's
Up, step over the gap, up trending right, then traverse left along the edge, up left of the anchors, then reach right to clip the anchors. FA: Mark Sprague, 1996 | 24m, 8 | |||
5.6 | ★ Easily Amused
Goes up 3 bolts to anchors beside trees. The bolts that continue above the anchor are "Rubicon". FA: Chris Smith, 1996 | 10m, 3 | |||
5.10b | Rubicon
Extension of "Easily Amused". Can be done as a 2nd pitch, but also easily done in a single push clipping one of the bolts of the Easily Amused anchors along the way. FA: Jim Cullen, 2009 | 15m, 9 | |||
5.9 | ★ Easily Aroused
FA: Tim Kemple Sr., 2001 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.7 | ★ Rise And Shine
Start just left of the big boulder. Up the face to the corner system, pass it mostly on the left, then go right again to the anchors. FA: Ward Smith, 1996 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.10a | ★ Egg McMeadows
| 15m, 5 | |||
5.4 R | Centerfold
Climb the (usually wet) left ascending crack/gully. | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Chloe's Breakfast Special
Starts up easy climbing (which is often wet), to a sustained upper face, one of the longer moderates in the Parking Lot area. Worth picking your way past the wet start for the good climbing on the steep upper section. FA: Dave Quinn, 1997 | 33m, 11 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Quinn/Callaghan Route
Climb up the almost always wet, but low-angle rock left of the chimney that "Shealyn's Way" ascends to a high first bolt, then up the great climbing up the steep face above. Another long route for the Parking Lot wall. FA: Dave Quinn & Christine Callaghan, 2003 | 33m, 11 | |||
5.7 | ★ Shealyn's Way
Climb the obvious chimney then head left and up to the anchors. One of the longer routes at the parking lot wall, fun if the start isn't wet. | 33m, 11 | |||
5.2 | A Week With Pete
Climb the easy-angled jug-haul up the face to the right of the chimney that "Shealyn's Way" climbs. | 12m, 4 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Espresso
| 18m, 6 | |||
5.11c | ★ 100% Columbian
| 18m, 6 | |||
5.10b | ★ Juan Valdez
Climb up to, left, and around the obvious left-edged flake. | 15m, 5 | |||
5.6 | ★ Cafe' au Lait
Up the blocky corner to an obvious chimney, then stem up the chimney to the anchors. Yes, the fun of a bolted chimney! | 24m, 8 | |||
5.11a | ★ Mr. Coffee
| 18m, 6 | |||
5.7 | ★ Percolator
Right-most climb at the Parking Lot Wall -- from the right-most trail from the parking, if you turn right instead of going to the main section, you'll go up steps that lead directly to the base of this route. Often wet. In Ward Smith's (2009) book as 5.5, but the 5.7 grade listed here seems more reasonable. | 15m, 5 | |||
Rumney The Parking Lot Wall The Drainage | |||||
V1 | The Road Not Taken
| ||||
Rumney The Parking Lot Wall The Arrow Head Boulder | |||||
V0 | Sailors Beware
FA: Tim Armstrong | ||||
Rumney The Meadows Apocalypse Walls | |||||
5.6 R | They Come and They Go
FA: Bradley White & Ed Hawes, 2010 | 35m, 2, 5 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Supreme Onion Sacrifice
FA: Jeff Fongemie, 1992 | 18m, 5 | |||
WI3 - 4 | Apocalypse Left
| ||||
5.7 | Serenity Now
FA: Chris Smith, 2000 | 15m, 4 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Apocalypse Later
FA: Greg McCausland, 1988 | 18m, 6 | |||
5.12d | Bad Seed
FA: Jerry Handren, 1987 | 12m, 4 | |||
5.13a | Whitey's Start
Direct start to Bad Seed | ||||
5.12c | ★★ Good Earth
FA: Tom Georgivitz & John Georgivitz, 2004 | 24m, 8 | |||
WI3- | Parallel Gully
| ||||
5.4 | Kate's Arete
FA: Kate Lincoln, 1996 | 12m, 4 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Captain Fingers
FA: Nick Yardley, 1987 | 12m, 4 | |||
WI4+ | Private Eye
FA: Jim Shimberg, 1991 | ||||
5.11b | ★★ Corporal Punishment
FA: Chris Smith, 1996 | 12m, 4 | |||
Rumney The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||
5.10a/b | ★ Repossession
The far left end of the wall. Scramble up an easy ramp to the first bolt. Move up through to the crux and top out. FA: Dave Quinn, 2004 | 12m, 4 | |||
5.12a/b | ★ The Payment Plan
FA: Dave Quinn, 2004 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.10c | ★★ No Money Down
FA: Tom Armstrong, 1988 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.11a/b | ★ Student Loan
FA: Kasia Weglarz & Mark Sprague, 2004 | 18m, 6 | |||
5.11b | ★★ The Coveted
After a few bolts up "Thou Shalt Not Covet", breaks left to the "Student Loan" anchors. Often top-roped, or can be lead with gear. FA: Mack Johnson, 1988 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.9 | ★ Thou Shalt Not Covet
Partial retrobolt of 'The Coveted'. Break right at the top. | 15m, 5 | |||
5.10a | ★ Mr. Popular
Hard start off the ground, then rest is easier. FA: Ed Esmond, 2000 | 18m, 6 | |||
5.7 | ★ False Modesty
FA: Jim Shimberg, 1989 | 14m, 4 | |||
5.8 | ★ Dung Beetle
Look for a fairly obvious low ledge. Climb onto this, then up the bolt line above. Tackling bulge below anchors on the left would be closer to 5.9+. FA: Jim Shimberg, 2002 | 14m, 4 | |||
5.8 | ★ Easy Terms
Starts at the edge of the blocky ground on the right. Go up the slab. FA: Tom Armstrong, 1987 | 14m, 4 | |||
5.7 | ★ Truth In Advertising
FA: Jim Shimberg, 1988 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.7 | ★ Rose Garden
This line goes up and rightwards up a less than vertical face parallelling the edge of the wall as it drops off into a bit of a gully. Be careful top-roping this route -- a fall can easily swing off the route into the gully, and even following has some risk. FA: Jim Shimberg, 2001 | 18m, 6 | |||
5.8 | ★ New Route
Dunno which route in the 2009 guide book is "New Route" -- the ascents with dates were in 2004, so likely this has got a name, now. | ||||
Rumney The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||
5.4/5 | ★ Mom's Pancake
Start in the low-angle corner and climb the easy face just to the corner's left, finishing with a stem across below the anchors. (A bit run-out at the top for a 5.4 leader.) FA: Jim Shimberg, 2003 | 14m, 4 | |||
5.8/9 | ★★ Hippos on Parade
Maint: Jim Shimberg FA: Jim Shimberg FA: Glen Cilley, 1989 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.9 R | ★★ Attack of Life
This route no longer really exists -- it was originally a mixed bolt & trad route that has been re-bolted and straightened out by Jim Shimberg, and is now the route "Hippos on Parade". Ward Smith's guide book (2009), which looks to be the book to use at Rumney (as of spring 2012), has no mention of a route with this name anywhere at Rumney, and nothing at this or close grade in the Meadows with a name at all similar. FA: Glen Cilley, 1989 | 15m, 2 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Lies And Propaganda
FA: Tom Armstrong, 1987 | 21m, 7 | |||
5.13a | ★ The Move
FA: Matt Keefe, 2002 | 20m, 6 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Cold Turkey
FA: Chris Smith, 1996 | 21m, 7 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Bolt Line
Route starts by traversing in from the right towards the first bolt, rather than pulling directly from below. (Direct start is in the 5.10-5.11 range depending on how direct.) FA: Bradley White, 1985 | 24m, 8 | |||
5.5 | ★ Beginner's Route
Start up some un-protected but easy slab to the left-leaning flake and follow the flake to bolted anchors. Generally well-protected except the start. | ||||
5.10c | ★ Bonehead Roof
FA: Jim Shimberg, 1989 | 18m, 6 | |||
5.10b PG13 | ★ Med Dose Madness
FA: Jon Barker, 2002 | 21m, 7 | |||
5.9 | ★ Tunnel Zone
A wandering route that is not climbed anymore. FA: Chris Hassig, 1975 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ Misdemeanor
Now a sport route FA: Alan Cattabriga, 1988 | 33m, 11 | |||
5.10a | ★ Rhino Bucket
FA: Glen Cilley, 1994 | 24m, 8 | |||
Rumney The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||
5.11c | ★★ White Rhino
FA: Ward Smith, 1997 | 12m, 4 | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Hope For Movement
FA: Duncan McCallum, 1988 | 30m, 10 | |||
5.12a/b | ★★★ Flesh For Lulu
FA: Jerry Handren, 1987 | 33m, 11 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Holderness School Corner
The obvious dihedral with crack in the back. Want gear up to a #4 friend. Lower-offs. FA: Chris Hassig, 1975 | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Holderness Arête
FA: Tom Armstrong, 1988 | 21m, 7 | |||
5.10a 5.10 | ★★ Holderness Finish
Actually 2nd pitch, continuing above anchors for "Holderness Arete" on 2 bolts and gear. FA: Tom Armstrong, 1989 | 2 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Idiots Deluxe
Beginning is rather easy and uneventful, but last 25' is fun, pumpy, sustained, & slightly overhanging with lots of jugs...watch out for the wasp nest near start of overhanging area to the left on a great hold. FA: Jim Shimberg, 2002 | 26m, 10 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Curly for President
9 Bolts to LO. Start behind a double-trunked oak, and climb the nice face past Rumney-style pockets. FA: Jim Shimberg, 2003 | 27m, 9 | |||
Rumney The Meadows Escape From Reality Roof | |||||
V5 | Dookie in the Ball Pit
FA: Eli Buzzell, 2020 | 2m | |||
V3 | Going Deeper
FA: Eli Buzzell, 2020 | 3m | |||
V8 | Choss is Reality
FA: Todd Bradley | 5m | |||
V9/10 | Fighting the Flaws of Reality
FA: Brad Fauteux | 5m | |||
V9 | Laws of Gravity
FA: Brad Fauteux, 2018 | 6m | |||
V10 | Fighting the Laws of Gravity
FA: Brad Fauteux | 6m | |||
V8/9 | Escape From Reality Direct
| ||||
V10/11 | Escape From Reality
FA: Todd Bradlee | 6m | |||
V6 | Caught in a Landslide
FA: Brad Fauteux | 6m | |||
V2/3 | Easy Come, Easy Go
FA: Brad Fauteux | 3m | |||
Rumney G Spot | |||||
5.9 | Drip of Fools
FA: Tim Kemple Sr., 2000 | ||||
5.6 | G-Wiz
FA: Lee Hansche | ||||
5.7 | Sex Ed
FA: Torie Kidd | 12m, 5 | |||
5.7 | Kagels and Locks
FA: Dean Wishart, 2000 | ||||
5.7 | Bumpin the Gate
FA: Fred Price, 2001 | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Layback and Relax
FA: Tim Kemple Sr., 2000 | ||||
5.11a | ★ Drillin in My Dreams
FA: Fred Price, 2001 | 6 | |||
5.8 | ★ She Goes Both Ways
FA: Dean Wishart, 2002 | ||||
5.11a | ★ Likken Liken
FA: Tim Kemple Sr., 2000 | 3 | |||
Rumney New Wave Wall | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Air And Pleasant Danger
FA: Ed Esmond, 1998 | ||||
5.11b | ★★ Short Wave
FA: Chris Smith, 1998 | 4 | |||
5.11c | ★ Barking Spiders
FA: Ted Hammond, 1988 | 7 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Weevil Kneivel
FA: Mark Sprague, 1998 | 8 | |||
5.13a | Roaring Silence
FA: Ward Smith, 1999 | 7 | |||
5.11c | ★ Sally's Alley
FA: Ted Hammond, 1986 | 15m, 9 | |||
5.10a | ★ Black Dog Crack
FA: Bradley White, 1986 | 5 |