Mount Nemo, Rock climbing

YDS

5.0 5.2 5.4 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10a 5.10c 5.11a 5.11c 5.12a 5.12c

Map

9 10 7 11 8 12 6 5 13 4 3 14 2 1

1 Gooseberry 2 Dead Zone 3 Central Wall 4 Alfred's Wall 5 Iguana Wall 6 White Trash Wall 7 Central Zone 8 Ivory Tower 9 New Wall 10 Ground Zero 11 Cat's Tail Wall 12 Morphine Ledge 13 Camel Wall 14 Big Gulp Area

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Seasonality

Summary

A large crag with a good number of sport routes. The cliff is north facing, making it more comfortable in the summer than the other Halton Region crags.

Description

Mount Nemo is a huge crag, significantly larger than any of the other crags in the Halton or even the Beaver Valley areas and features a fair number of bolted sport lines. However, it features a longer hike in, more difficult approaches and a top-roping ban making it less popular and giving it more of an adventure feel.

Traditionally the bolted routes here have been hard (5.10 and harder), with runouts or high first bolts, making it an unfriendly place for beginning. Recent development has added or retrobolted some more moderate routes to modern standards, bringing renewed popularity to previously disregarded areas like the 'Big Gulp Area' and 'Camel Wall'.

Access issues

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.

Approach

10-20 min

Enter and park at the Mount Nemo Conservation Area (5317 Guelph Line, Burlington, ON). Hike the trail to the cliff and take one of the descent gullies for your preferred area. Fee for entry.