Nodes in Western Cwm

The Western Cwm is a group of cliffs around a cwm, containing a mixture of easy trad and sport up to some very hard sport.

The northern (left) side of the Cwm is currently open to climbing for most of the cliffs. Some cliffs in the center have been closed since about 2005. The southern (right) side of the Cwm has recently (fall 2010) been closed to climbing by the NCC.

This sector is currently (as of fall 2010) closed by the NCC.

Baby Pneu is a small cliff located below the Reaper Buttress area and facing a different direction from the rest of this side of the cwm. There is a small stream running along much of the base.

The cliff has two faces at right angles (arrete) to each other, with the stream running down along side the left most of the two faces.

This is a shadowed, and often damp, cliff.

It has a number of short, but hard, sport climbs.

At the upper left end of the cliff is a small steep face. Start on a boulder in the middle of the stream. Anchors at top.

Anchors at top.

Climb thin cracks and small holds to the anchors.

Climb up a set of thin vertical cracks right of Wish You Were Here. Anchors.

Step off the huge boulder, and up around the right side of an overhanging block, then straight to the top. Anchors.

An elegant line around a stepe arete, then up a set of thin cracks to the top.

The near-blank face between Dead Men and Bitter Fingers

Up the obvious cracked depression.

Climb the bolts to the right of the Bitter Fingers crack.

September 2012, bolts chopped. Route takes very solid gear.

Directly facing Slip Stream's face (on Baby Pneu) and below North Wall is this rarely climbed rounded buttress with 4 short routes.

This area has been closed by the NCC as of fall 2010.

On the left side of the buttress is a short, clean face. Climb this up the left. No protection.

Climb the right side of the same face as Water Fact, finishing up a small right-facing corner.

Start at some cracks just left of the arete and climb up and past some vertical flake cracks, to the top.

Climb up some blocks to a thin crack in the slab. Climb up a thick right-facing flake to the top.

A rounded slabby face with several cracks up it. This has several easy trad routes that take protection easily and is often the place people come to learn trad in the area.

The left most crack on North Wall, and a large one. It tends to be quite dirty as well. Not often climbed, and without anchors at the top.

Start up as per The Canopy, and about 1/2 way branch right and climb up the corner. Also tends to be dirty.

Start at the same place as The Canopy - on the left side of the flake near the base of the cliff. Do a rising traverse rightwards following the the obvious long diagonal crack.

Start at the flaring narrow chimney, and climb past this (low crux) to a rock spike, then up an obvious series of cracks to 2 bolts for anchors at the top.

Start below the large thin flake. (It feels really solid, but I wouldn't put pro under it, it is large and thin.) Follow the obvious large crack to 2 bolts for anchors.

Takes protection really easily -- a good route for a first trad lead.

Start at a small corner a bit up and to the right of Route B, follow the thin crack to a corner in the upper part of the cliff, then on to 2 bolts as anchors.

Even further up and right, there is another crack angling slightly right as it goes up past a tree. Not often climbed.

The buttress down and around the corner from Spindrift Wall.

Climb the shallow dihedral and face left of Mr Toady's Dihdral to the top, then traverse to its anchors.

The obvious short dihedral. Anchors.

The first bolt really belongs to "Krispy Kreme", and there's good gear at the start, so no need to clip that bolt.

Steeper than it looks.

Climb the arete just to the right of Mr Toady's Dihedral.

Start below a smooth overhanging wall that is split by a thin crack, with a right-ascending ramp at the bottom.

Warning: ground-fall potential clipping 2nd bolt -- don't miss the clip.

Climb the wall to the right of The Reaper, going over a small overhang above a small dihedral. Lots of jugs, but bad pro for the upper half. (PG)

A tall (25m) slabby cliff, water-stained black in places. Has several easy and closely bolted routes on it -- making it a good place to learn or do someone's first sport climbs.

The left-most bolt line on Spindrift wall. Opening moves to first bolt are a bit intimidating (consider a stick-clip), but real crux is when the route gets thin between bolts 2 and 3.

Start on the crack between Bolt Line #1 and Ground Zero. Follow this crack until it peters out, then straight towards the top. Either top-out, or traverse left to the anchors on "Bolt Route 1".

This was originally graded 5.1 (Climbing on the Eardley Escarpment, Yann Troutet), but it is defintely no easier than "Ground Zero" or "Bolt Line 3".

The middle bolt line up the cliff.

Formerly an X trad route, now a very closely bolted sport route. This is a good lead for a beginning lead climber.

A couple meters left of "Bolt Line 3" is a small right-facing corner with a crack at the back. Start up this corner following it until it peters out, then angle gently up and left as gear allows. Finish by stepping left onto the ledge just below the anchors for "Ground Zero", pull up and right, then finish at the "Ground Zero" anchors.

(This climb is not described in a guide book from 2001 (which references works back to 1991), nor in more recent books/updates. It seems likely it has been climbed at some point in the last 30+ years of climbing on the escarpment, though the state of the moss and dirt in the cracks suggests not recently.)

The 3rd bolt line on Spindrift Wall. Climb the face just outside the corner that is Arachnophobia.

Start in the mouth of the large cave, about 2m left of the jumble of rocks. Follow the obvious zig-zag crack under large solid flakes until it ends. At some point move left onto the main face, and continue up towards the cedar tree at the top of the cliff, stepping left right at the end to use the anchors for Bolt Line #3.

The short wall to the right of the cave.

A real classic. Climb the overhanging arete up the right side of the cave, then up onto the face and to the anchors.

Climb up a thin crack and then move right to a bolt. Climb up past another bolt to the anchors.

The obvious twisting off-width crack to the right of the cave. Anchors.

The grade has inspired much debate.

Climb the short face right of Neruda, following a small left-facing arch and pulling over this to the top. "Pro is scarce, scary, and scabrous." PG. Not often climbed.

Technically not in the Cwm, this small wall is located above and behind the chimney-cave found on the right side of Cave Wall. Access the base of the cliff by climbing up the chimney or from the top of the neighbouring walls. Split by three obvious vertical cracks, the face overhangs severely for the first few meters then rounds off to a slab at its top.

This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

Aid your way up the obvious crack on the left side of the face.

Very sporty, yet naturally protected. Follow the overhanging crack up the middle of the face past two small roofs, all the way to a bolt below the slab finish at the top.

Pull up onto an undercut face and move right to an obvious short dihedral. Follow this and exit via slabs above it to the top.

A very rounded face 15 meters right of Up n'Over, and directly above Short Wall. It has four lines (hence the name): both aretes and two lines up the face. This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Top-rope the general line of the right arete of the face. Easier further right.

A small near-vertical face with two obvious crack lines. Located just left and below Bird's Nest Buttress, it is also accessible from Cave Wall.

This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

Follow the large, broken crack.

A challenging, concentrated route well worth doing. Follow the parallel crack to the top.

An unprotected face climb. The first ascent of the route was actually a street-shoe warm-up session that went a bit further than first intended.

An impressive buttress with large roofs and numerous cracks. The main feature is a huge roof at the very base of the cliff.

Raven's have been known to nest here, and the cliff should be avoided during nesting season (early March to late August).

This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

Make your way up a crack through the left end of the roof. Truly, truly gnarly! Pass the second roof to the left via a small notch left again. Large slinged pine tree at the top.

Start at the lip of the overhang at the obvious crack in the middle of the roof. Reach the first hold (step on a stone if necessary), and pull your way up to establish your feet on the face. Truly radical. (The crack on the roof at the bottom has been climbed on aid.)

Start at the right end of the roof. Make some steep moves to reach a wide crack leading up to another roof. Skirt the roof to the left following a crack to a ledge (huge nest) and to the large slinged pine tree at the top.

Start at a small left-facing corner. Climb this to the vegetated ledge. Move up underneath a roof, then go left and up past the overhang. Follow a thin crack above the overhang until it becomes imperative to join Rock Heads (at the nest) for the last few moves.

Named for the colour of the rock, this is the long wall at the back of the Cwm, facing towards the valley. The left end has four intermediate routes while the right has some more difficult sport climbs. The center has one old and one new, crossing each other.

This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

Directly up the short left face of Mouse Eater, past two bolts.

Step onto the face from a boulder. Climb up and right into the corner. Follow the corner past two old in-situ pins, to the top.

Climb up to a ramp which is followed rightwards out to the top.

Climb the large easy-angled ramp all the way to its rightmost tip, then exit straight up the face.

Start at the left end of the roof, climb cracks to gain some bulges in the upper part. Small pro. Slinged tree at the top.

Climb up the rightmost of cracks leading to the left end of the long overhang (past the first 2 bolts of Dreams). Pull around this and follow a right-leaning vegetated ramp to the upper right of the cliff.

An unfinished project (bolts still missing in the upper part). Anchors at top.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Make your way up to the crack and move up the steepening rock over progressively harder terrain to the anchors beneath a vegetated ledge.

A good short route at the right end of the face. Cruxy start.

The Upper Slabs area a series of extensive slabs which run east for a few hundred meters starting atop the Red Wall. Much of the slabs are unattractive for climbing. The routes are located in three seperate areas. The left part is the slab facing Shpinava Wall and above the Red Wall.

This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

Left of the line of bolts for Pascal's Hole. Climb straight up.

An obvious huge roof can be seen above this climb. The route follows a diagonal line of bolts up to a ledge and small tree. Notice "Pascal hole" on the way up.

Start at the base of the slab, below and slightly right of the tree at the top of Pascal's Hole. Climb up to the tree.

From the tree at the top of Pascal's Hole, traverse left for about 10m, then go up, passing an overhang by a small corner, and to the top. (Essentially a 2nd pitch to Pascal's Hole.)

On the way to the right part of the slabs, a small area of rather unattractive slabs can be seen to the left.

This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

This section of three routes is found on a clean part of the slab about 100m east (above and behind) Shpinava Wall.

Climb up the slab staying left of the flake crack past three bolts to an easier section. Climb through a steeper bulge above this and past two more bolts all the way to top anchors. Two rappels may be needed to come back down. Rappel anchors on the ledge at mid-height.

Up the middle of the slab, directly beneath a cedar tree. Small crystals, tricky footwork.

The right side of the slab. Successive small ledges, delicate moves. Belay at the top of Primordial Soup.

Left-most wall on the south (right) side of the Cwm.

This area closed by the NCC as of 2010.

A short exposed route up the small face directly below a birch tree at the left end of the wall. 2 bolts and an anchor.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Follow the large right-facing corner to the roof. Pull the roof and climb past a bolt up the left edge of a big flake to anchors above the flake.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

This cliff closed by the NCC as of fall 2010.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

As you follow the arete up and leftwards from the nose, it is smooth until it encounters a small overhang with a crack below it. This climb starts below this break in the arete. It starts up a finger crack, the gets wider and steeper as it ascends, to a surprisingly steep lay-back section. Intimidating for a 5.4, but takes good gear all the way.

At the top, step right to a small triangular ledge. There are two old pitons slung as a rappel anchor. If belaying from here, backup gear in the crack up and left from the ledge might be a good idea.

Climb a finger crack rightwards, then gain the arete. Climb its left side. Almost no protection once you gain the arete.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

This wall closed by the NCC as of fall 2010.

Start up to the first bolt of "Butt Cheeks", then go left up the wide over-hanging crack to a ledge, then up the face above.

Looks to be far harder than the (historical) 5.9 grade it has.

Up the initial overhanging section, step right, then up the thin slab and arete above.

Looks to be significantly harder than the (historical?) 5.10a grade.

This climb was named to commemorate Colonel Saunders' contribution to any climbers training diet!

Start at the base of a small wall immediately right of Heart Rate. Follow the obvious line up the wall, going left up to a ledge which crosses the face, then diagonally right up a thin crack.

Starts behind a half-dead tree. Climb the thin face past three bolts to the anchor shared with "Colonel Buckets".