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Bow Wall

Access: Please read access information section!

Access to this area is in jeopardy - please read access information about how you can prevent this area being closed. You may be fined by the police or asked to leave if you do not follow this advice.

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago

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Access issues inherited from Vaucluse

Access to this area is in jeopardy! Please read this important information before climbing here.

To access this area requires climbing a fence that is marked “Keep out, no access”. This fence has been erected to stop suicides and risky selfie takers. In recent years climbers have been approached by NSW Police and Waverly Council rangers when crossing this fence. In 2021 police have issued fines for climbers crossing this fence during Covid lockdown.

A November 16, 2020 Waverly Council meeting confirmed that climbers are not supposed to be receiving infringement notices for accessing climbing areas but authorities will intervene if they believe that members of the public are putting themselves at risk.

“Council enforcement staff have been applying a discretionary approach to enable rock climbers, slack liners and fisherman to access areas at Diamond Bay and Eastern Avenue Reserve. Rangers will not issue infringement notices to this group of people.”

Police attend more than 50 suicides a year along this coastline. A woman fell to her death whilst partying on the cliff edge of Diamond Bay in 2020 and Council rangers and police have been instructed to stop this happening again. The fence is part of their enhanced community safety plan.

Do not cross the fence in front of walkers and sightseers. Don't create a false alarm by hanging around at the top of the climbing area on the wrong side of the fence. Bystanders may mistake you for a potential jumper and report it. Make it obvious you are a climber by wearing a harness and helmet at all times - put them on in the carpark so there is no confusion about your intentions to outsiders. Always remain harnessed up and attached to anchors when near cliff edges. Be discrete and low key - this is not the place to pose and perform in front of bystanders.

Actively discourage any bystanders from climbing the fence to see what you are climbing or to take selfies. The cliffs are for experienced climbers and slackliners only - not a place for tourists to take photos. As a climber please avoid taking photographs of your mates climbing from the cliff top - this will just encourage non -climbers to join you.

If you are approached by police or rangers please follow their instructions and report any interactions to Sydney Climbers Facebook group and Australian Climbing Association NSW (ACANSW) via email president@nsw.climb.org.au

ACANSW suggests you print out page 5 from the following Waverly Council meeting notes and keep this on you when climbing in the area to show to any police or rangers. https://www.waverley.nsw.gov.au/data/assets/pdffile/0020/187310/DoverHeights_Report_for_Motions_from_November_2020_correct.pdf

ACANSW continues to discuss these access issues with Waverly Council and local police in the hope we can maintain access for climbers in future years.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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Routes

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Big, feels like El Cap after the other sports climbs in the area. Climb up with increasing difficulty to a bridging session then a pair of rooflets and finish at the 8th ring, a 50m rope just reaches.

FA: Mike Law, 1992

Often wet, climbs the wall and horrendous undercling flake 10 Mm L of Rupture. Needs gear

FA: MIKLLAW, 1990

The classic of the crag. After the initial loose session in 'The Devil's sandpit" the climbing is excellent and reachy. Start some 60m L of Rupture of the Deep at a flake / corner about 10 m up. Move up R and back left to base of route, then follow a flake line over bulge and slab to rap ring, 7 rings en route.

FA: Mike Law, 1992

A short double roof crux. Start 10 L of Hot Axis up high, head up leftwards, thru roofs and up, 6 rings.

FA: Mike Law, 1992

Maximum pump for the grade.Also sandy and scary at times. Start at the R end of the wall, up wall past 3 rings to ledge, up past another and into cave. Clip ring on lip and move R 1m and up overhung line to top.

FA: Mike Law, 1990

FA: Mike Law, 1990

FA: Mike Myers, 1990

FA: Mike Myers, 1990

A great little pump, start up small corner in the middle of the wall, 4 rings.

FA: Mike Myers, 1990

FA: Mike Myers, 1990

Steep climbing up the wall above Sea Kwarry Wall, with a big roof move. Start; on the ledge above Make Believe etc, go R and up wall and roof, 7 rings.

FA: Mike Law, 1990

Venus' finest hour, 3 m L of MB, 4 rings, L at top

FA: Venus Kondos, 1992

FA: Mike Law, 1990

FA: Mike Myers, 1990

Eventual exhaustion, Start, 1m L of R, cave to start.

FA: Mike Myers, 1990

"Lucky Star" left side of wall

the only route not chipped.

FA: Mike Law, 1990

FA: Mike Law, 1990

FA: Mike Law, 1990

A reverent and exciting re-enactment of an old fisherman's route. Start at weakness 15m L of CC, around L edge of Bow Wall. Up and R, no pro, to ring anchor. An access route to the top of Sea Kwarry.

FA: Mike Myers, 1990

Escape route. From belay below Prowess, right and up to exciting stretched out move under roof. About 16 with one aid.

FA: Michael Law, 2011

Stunning positions. I was hit by a wave on the lip while bolting in big seas. Either 1) approach 20m left of Bow Wall and climb roped up access rings (16); or

  1. Rap in from top 16m: approach via end of Oceanview St, left 20m and over fence, and down into fisherman's cave. Rap off Ubolt on the ground (almost hidden due to the grass growing) and large chipped thread at head height, near the small tree next to the "ramp" that goes into the cave. This will allow you to rap down following the corner and get to the belay ledge, where you'll find 2 Ubolts. Out left and up spacy arete.

FFA: Michael Law, 2012

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

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Wed 19 Apr
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