Ascents in Narrow Neck Crags

Up to the cave is tricky for 13, especially down low (on the bolts). Wander right over to the corner on the ledge about 10m up - we linked P1 and 2, belaying off of the double rings in the cave. Round the outside the cave was good, this is when it started feeling like less 14/15 and more 13! Nice crack and face holds. One size 4 took me most of the way up this pitch.

Did the actual start (Flying Spectacles start is better), and tried going outside the cave (inside is way better).

A really nice climb

A few notes

The first third of pitch one, up the slab has very little pro. There are no bolts or carrots at the top of this pitch. There is some gear in the wall at the top of the block (belay piont) but you will have to look for it.

Do not underestimate the off-width on pitch 2. We only used one bolt plate and that was on pitch 2. Having a #5 or #6 cam is handy for this pitch. But probably not essential. There is a DBB at the top of pitch 2.

The first move off the blay station for pitch 3 is very difficult compared to the rest of this climb. Pitch 3 is a chimney. If you climb inside the chimney you will only fit if you are thin/small and will not fit with a backpack on. If you step to the outside of the chimney there is more space but less gear. Choose your own adventure. There is a DBB at the top of pitch 3.

This climb gets sun early... like 10am

Linked P1 and P2 beautiful climbing with the hardest moves off the deck, the cave was a nice belay out of the sun and 10 degrees cooler which was nice. P3 was a nice flowy layback flake lovely route would recommend, take 6s if you dont like runout

Really good route nice jugging for P1 just sandbagged myself by making a right angle in the gear near the top, belayed from carrots off to the left. P2 has one hard layback section and might be a grade or so harder, Justin realised the left his phone at the base of the climb while having a snack at the bealy for P3. P3 was a nice boulder to start, again probably sandbagged for 13 but fine either way clipping an old piton on the way to the chimney, the chimney was super cool i just wish i had been carrying less gear, ended up only placing a 5 a nut and another small cam near the top. A 6 would have been nice on P2

Great climb. Couldn't do the obvious boulder Crux. Only did the first pitch.

Awesome

Father-Son bonding

Full value climb with the start and exposure. Cool moves

Really nice route. Sat at the crux in the overhang, but clean the rest of the way. Carrots make it less pleasant

Worst route

Bottom pitch is tricky for the grade

Fun route, as for the big pro on the second pitch, I had a single 4 and thought it was fine. If you're a bit timid at the grade you might want to bring a second 4 or a 5. There are ample placements for bigger gear if you want to bring it, but it isn't explicitly necessary.

Not bad, despite the fact that most of it was damp.

Surprisingly, there’s quite a few unnecessary bolts, with good pro directly next to it. First bolt on P1, and at least 3 of the bolts on P2. Was good news for me, considering I left my bolt plates in the car

Real tasty

Absolutely classic. Done before years ago. Among the best of the grade in the mountains

Very short laybacking section on P2 and early in P3. Both are a little tricky and perhaps difficult to place gear whilst in those areas. Did as 2 pitches

Fell of the crux roof of this with Mal Johnston belaying circa '79 in bare feet - ouch! Can't recall if he then lead but no need anyway: 20ish wall with a few sketchy moves and 3 crap bolts, 1.5m ceiling with what look like broken holds, then a 20m grade 8 slab with minimal pro. One for the history books.

This time deliberately jugged thru the crux.