Savage Amusement Buttress Rock climbing 15 routes in cliff

The prominent arête on the back of Savage Amusement Buttress. 1 BR, #1 Rock, wires. Step across into the foot-holds (take care with small wire placement) then follow the arête past a BR and wires to the top. BR and tree (right back) for belay.

The obvious corner left of Savage Amusement. Start from the same ledge. Up the crack. Belay to avoid rope drag. Wander right across ledge to finish up Savage Amusement.

Start: The middle line with the large dog-leg flake. Scramble up onto the ledge. Originally graded 20, but was up-graded to 22 when a loose spike was removed from just below the finger crack crux.

From the ledge, step out right, then straight up over the huge flake, move right into the crack- corner, then finger-lock the bulge (crux). Chain anchor or top out.

The route with the big block hanging out of it. 3 BRs, small wires, large stopper, #2 Friend, big muscles.

Up an easy slab then some tricky moves to the cave under the roof. Clip the 1st BR then move out and up to the top of the block, clip 2nd BR then step onto the block, clip final BR then swing out an up to slab finish. Chain anchor or top out.

At the end of SA Buttress and just before Inertia is a cave made by a boulder stacked on two other boulders. To get to 'Inertia', you must scramble down into the entrance to the little cave these boulders create.

Sit start under the cave on a large slopey pinch and head directly out the cave on sharp crimps to a slopey mantel top out.

This route used to be an absolute bottler until early ‘99 when an unfortunate victim tore the entire flake out of the roof. The route’s still possible, albeit at a harder grade than the original 22. Here is the original description for history’s sake. start: The roof about 10 m down left of Bootleg. Exciting climbing on big holds. Up crack to roof, then move out left via the crack in the roof, and up the wall (crux) to belay ledge. Walk off.

Has been done post flake falling off and is around the same grade.

Two rings to double ring anchor 1m right of Inertia.

No information about this route, likely an unsent project. It is one of the earliest routes with glue in rings somewhere in the late 90's. Feel free to post info if available.

Start on the big jug on the corner about 5m left of 'Inertia'. Up and then technical traverse left across the face then up into cathedral roof for a good rest. Then a thrutchy exit through the roof, up the easy slab to anchors.

Clip first bolt then head slightly right and up over the flakes, a good #1 placement (avoid gear on the detached arch). Onto the slab (crux) past 2 bolts, then a short unfortunate dirty wade through some lomandra then onto a short crack up to the anchor.