Halfway House

Description:© (gremlin): Hosting some superb routes in a fabulous position, this wall is located 90m off the deck on Tibro's East face (on 'Clemency' Terrace). It can be reached various ways, such as via the first three pitches of 'Clemency' or Lancelot (trad), The Twisticle Connection (three pitch mixed) or 'Aphelion' (four pitch sport). As you walk up to the base of the wall from Clemency's third pitch belay and rap anchor you'll see a 1m roof at head height. This is a landmark for locating routes.
Access Issues: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains: Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.
Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains: Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

	Grade	Popularity
1	Cunningly Deceptive Start: At the black corner about 3m R of where the track angles steeply uphill. Climb the corner past two FH's and a couple of bits of good natural gear to rap station on steep wall. FFA: Phil Box, Lee Cujes, 2003	21	Trad 25m, 2
2	Rocketsauce Up past a couple of FH's to rooflet. Interesting moves pulling R around this. Join TD to finish. Start: Start: A couple of metres R beneath bolted corner. FFA: Lee Cujes, 2007	19	Sport 12m
3	Tenacious D Up the steep little corner passing FH's to a ledge. Step R to clip bolt on bulge, then up to clip rap station on R. A nice moderate sport route for 'Halfway House'. Start: Start: 1m R on the fallen block beneath the bolted corner. FA: Lee Cujes, 2007	19	Sport 12m
4	The Court Jester p1 Bouldery moves off the deck to good holds. Trend R up obvious ramp/weakness. Negotiate shrubbery to arrive at large triangle ledge. Shared rap station on R end of ledge. The two FH's leading up from here are for Maponus’ second pitch (23).	14	Trad 15m
5	The Court Jester p2 Continue up corner 3m, step L into next corner and up for 4m. Step L out of corner and climb over short steep bit (crux). Walk easily up slab to find rap station underneath large roof. 30m rap to the terrace. FFA: Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn, 2003	17	Trad 20m
6	Emu-less Start: Directly behind the rectolotomy tree. Boulder up over the roof, then up past two FH's on the front of the pillar. Up and over on to the slab (gear on L) then to the anchors on the triangle ledge. FFA: James Pfrunder, Phil Box, Pat Daly, 2003	22 R	Trad 12m
7	Gut Punch The Budda Start: At the landmark roof. The R side of the roof sports some protruding blocks. Crank through on these and blast the corner above past four FH's to Jester?s rap station on ledge. FFA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2003	23	Sport 12m
8	Maponus p1 12m (22) The arching crackline on natural gear. Finishes on the large triangle ledge (with Jester's rap station). 25m (23) Directly above belay. Two FH's protect a few gut-busting moves on small crimps. After that, head up and through placing gear to pull on to easy terrain. R and up on slab for about 15m to spiky bush ledge which hides rap station. 35m rap to the terrace, or short rap to Dagda anchors, then 25m to ground. Start: Start: 3m R of 'Gut Punch The Budda'. The first pitch draws the stars. FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2003	22	Trad 12m
9	Maponus p2	23	Sport 25m
10	The Sword In The Stone Start: At Jester's rap station atop pitch one of the original. Head into corner and up for 3m. Step R for 3m underneath suspended flake (above the 24 section). Up for 4m and finish as for pitch two of original. FFA: Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn, 2003	18	Trad 25m
11	Dagda Climb Maponus' first pitch and then directly up past three spaced FH's to station. FA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003	25	Sport 25m
12	Voluptuous Start: 1.5m R of Maponus at smooth orange streak. A high pull-on jug (FH), then perfect finger slots lead to the second of five FH’s. A devious crux and continuous sidepulling will have you feeling really happy to pull on to the finishing ledge (rap station). A deliciously curvy conquest on sublime, marble-like rock. Originally done with three FH's - has proved more popular now with five. FFA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2003	24	Sport 11m
13	Bargearse FFA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2009	23	Sport 15m
14	The Elite Republican Guard Start: 7m R at the end of the vegetated section of ledge. Superb sequences. The L-trending line of five FH’s featuring sustained sideways slopers. Feels much longer than it is. Now has its own dedicated rap station. FFA: Phil Box, Lee Cujes,	24	Sport 15m
15	Hungry Beast FFA: G.Llewellin R.Ferguson A.Jones, 2009	20	Sport 15m
16	Love, Honour and Belay FFA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, 2009	25	Sport 16m
17	I Am No Ordinary Top Bunk Cock Pounder Because Jesus Loves Me The bolted orange corner. FA: Pat Daly, 2004	22	Sport 30m
18	Switch Blade Honey FFA: Cameron Fairbairn,	25	Sport 30m
19	Pigs In Space Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. 8 or 9 bolts? Anchors on a small ledge in a corner. FFA: Cameron Fairbairn,	26	Sport 30m
20	DV8 FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003	27	Sport 30m
21	Black Op's Up past a few FH's into corner until you can pull L onto wall. Up this great wall past more FH's to a rest stance. Easier ground past a few more FH's, then the anchor is up R (same as SW). FFA: Cameron Fairbairn,	24	Sport 30m
22	Storm Watch Start beneath the corner - it's the final bolted line. The bouldery crux move from big sloping edges will try hard to spit you off - be warned! 30m to ledge on rap. FFA: Cameron Fairbairn,	24	Sport 30m
23	Spooky House Climb D's corner to the top of corner. Instead of stepping R, step L into another gently overhanging corner, climb through bulge and head straight up 15m looking for SW's anchors. Bad gear in 2nd half on crumbly rock. FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003	17	Trad 30m