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The Great Wall

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Description

The upper pitches of the Great Wall are within the civilian boundary. If you abseil to the ground, you will cross into defence (commonwealth) land.

Access issues inherited from Mt Stuart

Visiting climbers are advised that a significant proportion of the cliffs lie in Department of Defence (Army) land. Trespassing on defence land is an offense. The Townsville City Council (TCC) controlled cliffs require a permit for climbing and/or abseiling. Do not park too close to the gate else your car may be moved. During the year, the car club holds races on the mountain road; during this time road access is closed. Mark Gommers is negotiating with the TCC to remove certain onerous restrictions such as a permit and indemnity insurance.

Approach

Abseil descent via rap chains.

Ethic inherited from Mt Stuart

Installation of permanent anchors (eg bolts) is not permitted on City Council land or Department of Defence (Army) land. Take all rubbish with you. - Be aware of loose rocks and other climbers who could be below you.

History

History timeline chart

Mostly developed by Mark Gommers during the 1990's at a time when access wasn't an issue.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Offwidth up the huge flake like feature at the far left of the Great Wall. Numerous big cams necessary and Big Bros wouldn't be a bad idea.

FFA: Jarrah & Medieval Mystique, 8 Aug 2021

Located left of the second pitch of Deliverance the very L line of bolts. Start up the small corner and go L at the rooflet, then up R to the pocketed seam. 3 FH's and an excellent crux. Small cams and RPs.

FA: Mark Gommers & Jason Gunders, 1997

FFA: Douglas Hockly & Peter Trezona, 1999

Located left of the second pitch of Deliverance are two bolted lines. The RH bolted line was a project of Andrew Trezona's which he's handed over to his brother Peter. It's unknown if this was ever sent.

1 18 25m
2 16 13m
3 10 12m
4 18 20m
5 17 30m

Located on the ground approximately 25m R of "Tristar", it's the best middle grade multi-pitches on Mt Stuart. A decent route with nice rock and brilliant views overlooking Townsville. The first and the last two pitches are sensational. There's plenty of good pro and some exciting moves. It's a great intro climb to the Mt Stuart area and can be top roped and split into two pitches. The last two pitches can be strung into one pitch but watch for rope drag and the sloping ledge.

Best accessed via rappelling down from rusty chain to P2 Chains and then again down to bottom of cliff.

  1. 25m 18 Climb the sustained black R-leaning corner/slab, steepening at top to gain a ledge with small tree. Natural belay.

  2. 13m 16 Up the groove to gain sloping ledge. Chain belay.

  3. 12m 10 Traverse L past corner with FH (The Fifth Wind) and down around nose to belay below obvious V corner and arête. Beware of huge death block in traverse.

  4. 20m (18 crux) Strenuously up steep crack in arête to where it finishes. Step L around arête to gain another corner then up to sloping ledge.

  5. 30m 17 Climb straight up steep headwall to gain a ledge then continue up to final ledge and belay. Alternatively, traverse right once at fixed hanger to rusty long chain (rap station).

FA: Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 1996

Variant pitch to 'Deliverance'. Tackles the V-corner crack 1m R of Deliverance's 4th pitch. Climb the corner to reach the belay chains on the Wall of the Four Winds.

FA: Mark Gommers & Jason Gunders, 1998

"Deliverance" P5 Variant

5a) 26m 16 Up, then veer L to sickle crack. Crack to the ledge.

FFA: Craig Colley & Mark Gommers, 1997

1 19 25m
2 18 20m
3 17 15m

This route starts about 10m R of "Deliverance".

  1. 25m (19 crux) Climb slab with crack running up it and belay below the point where the crack runs off R.

  2. 20m (18) Up the crack, then exposed traverse moves R-wards and then up vertically following the crack to belay at the obvious ledge above.

  3. 15m (17) Step out L to bridge the void into the crack, then up the crack and easily up the slab. To escape from this point, scramble R-wards up the vegetated gully.

FFA: Mark Gommers, Andrew Rule, Lee Skidmore (Cujes) & Tim De Jersey, 1997

Links "Deliverance" to "Candle In The Wind". Climbs the corner with a FH about 5m L of "Deliverance" 's 2nd belay, then a crack to join "Candle In The Wind".

FFA: Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 1997

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Tue 18 Apr
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