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Acacia Wall Mostly Trad climbing 8 routes in cliff

Grade context: AU
Photos: 12
Ascents: 19

15 17 19 21

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Wet in rain

Acacia Wall is within army land, enter at your own risk.

Access issues inherited from Mt Stuart

Tolerated

Visiting climbers are advised that a significant proportion of the cliffs lie in Department of Defence (Army) land. Trespassing on defence land is an offense. The Townsville City Council (TCC) controlled cliffs require a permit for climbing and/or abseiling. Do not park too close to the gate else your car may be moved. During the year, the car club holds races on the mountain road; during this time road access is closed. Mark Gommers is negotiating with the TCC to remove certain onerous restrictions such as a permit and indemnity insurance.

Ethic inherited from Mt Stuart

Installation of permanent anchors (eg bolts) is not permitted on City Council land or Department of Defence (Army) land. Take all rubbish with you. - Be aware of loose rocks and other climbers who could be below you.

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30m L of where the ridge joins the main cliff is a shallow R-facing corner below a clean orange face and two roofs. Corner to thin crack, then up this to small ledge up the corner for body length to large ledge and DBB on the right side in terrible and not very obvious position can be hidden by grass. Take lots of RP's!

FA: Mark Witham & Deb Churches, 1993

Classic sports route for the grade. Crux at beginning for some. After last bolt, move right around the final roof and bolt of chains DBB. They are hidden from above so not good for access to the wall.

FFA: Chris Beric, Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2005

Start at the black open book corner 5m R of the chasm. Up, then R to hand crack and L to exit.

FA: M Retallick & Jon Penna, 1995

Starts at a small corner 6m R of the gully, 15m R of PL. Up the corner to gain L-leaning handcrack, continue up the crack to ledge.

FA: Mark Gommers, Mark Retallick, Ellen Kemp, Amber Rule & Zachary Von Kemp, 1995

It's recommended that you tape your hands on this one. Pretty obvious crack about 10m R around the corner from the gully.

FA: M. Retallick, C. Hughes, C. McSwann & G. Woodbridge, 1995

Start 2m R of Skin Graft, thin crack for 3m then L to main crack and finish as for SG.

FA: M Retallick, C Hughes & G Woodbridge, 1995

The large corner crack 15m R of SG with an overhanging top section. Open book beginning.

FA: M. Retallick, C. Hughes & C. McSwann, 1995

This is worth doing. Nice face climbing up the wall 5m R of "Physmid" with 5 FH's to a DBB. A cam or nut will protect you getting to first FH or long stick clip.

FA: M. Retallick, 1995

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