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Maku Iwa Mostly sport climbing

84 routes in crag
  • Grades: US
  • Approach time: 10 mins
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 88
  • Aka: 幕岩
  • Aka: Yugawara Maku Iwa

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Description

Steep slabby climbing on andesite, wonderful views, easy access - one of the few worthwhile places for a day-trip from Tokyo, although plenty to do if you want to stay in the area for a weekend. Nearly all sport climbing, with decent modern bolts on the popular climbs

Access issues

As of March 2010 there are some access issues with the left-hand band of cliffs from the parking lot. Climbers are asked to climb only on the right hand side (Wonderland/Ali Baba area) until this has been resolved.

Approach

From Tokyo: Catch Tokaido line from Tokyo/Kawasaki/Yokohama to Yugawara (last stop before Atami). Then get into a cab and ask the driver to take you to Makuiwa-koen. 10 min walk up from where the taxi driver drops you.

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.

Many of the routes are well protected, while other less climbed "sport" routes have loose pitons as protection.

The Japan Free Climbing Association does a lot of good work (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) but with some clubs and communities, many techniques and ethics are still passed down from old generations with outdated gear and techniques.

Areas

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Routes

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Grade Route
4
5.10d #25 Unknown
5
5.7 * Freight Unknown
6
5.7 * #49 Unknown
7
5.9 *** #50 Unknown
8
5.9 * Rat poison Unknown
9
5.8 * #13 .. chin route Unknown
10
5.10a ** Samaaizu Unknown
11
5.10c ** Asia Unknown
12
5.10d * Bandit Unknown
13
5.9 * Conan Unknown
14
5.11a * Benirein Unknown
15
5.9 In my life Unknown
16
5.8 Hannibal Unknown
17
5.9 * I feel fine Unknown
18
5.9 ** Ain't .... belong Unknown

Areas

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Activity

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