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Routes in Wilgepoort

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Showing all 83 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Broad Gully
19 Grater
1 17 15m
2 19 25m
3 12 25m
4 13 20m

The main feature of this climb is a jamming crack situated to the left of a broken shallow recess.

  1. Climb left handjamming crack in corner to ledge and tree belay.

  2. Step up right and around corner and climb jamming crack to below small overhang, climb out left then ascend crack to ledge.

  3. Ascend broken face to below final rock wall then traverse left for approximately 7m to recess and stance.

  4. Climb up into recess and hand-traverse right across hanging slab on face for 4m. Climb diagonally right to tree belay. Scramble to top.

FA: Jerry Linke, Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1977

Trad 85m, 4
18 A0 Deepheat
1 18 25m
2 14 A0 20m
3 12 23m
4 13 30m
  1. Straddle a layback open book to tree (10 metres). Climb past tree as high as possible. Traverse right into shallow recess using 1 sling for aid. Continue traverse right to sloping ledge and chock belay

  2. Climb crack above stance to top of block. Tension traverse 4m right into recess. Follow recess (crack) to large ledge.

  3. Walk left 6m along ledge and climb this face to another ledge. Walk right past Naboom to end of ledge and ascend recess to tree belay

  4. Climb face 2m left of open book (which has chockstone and hornets nest halfway up) to large tree.

FA: Romey Stapley, Romey Druschke & Eckhart Druschke, 1977

Trad 98m, 4
17 Stuck-A-Tack
1 17 25m
2 14 20m
3 13 30m
4 12 15m

FA: Romey Stapley, Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1976

Trad 90m
18 Sardine Run
1 18 40m
2 17 25m
3 9 15m
4 16 25m
5 10 25m

FA: Eckhart Druschke, Romey Druschke & Jerry Linke, 1977

Trad 130m
23 Scary Monsters
1 23 25m
2 23 20m
3 17 40m

FA: Michael Cartwright, K. Smith & Stewart Middlemiss, 1987

Trad 85m
11 Hotplate

FA: P. Solar, B. Naude, J. Winkler & A. Koster, 1968

Trad 100m
19 Hot House
1 13 25m
2 15 20m
3 17 30m
4 19 15m

FA: Eckhart Druschke & Jerry Linke, 1977

Trad 90m
17 Ouink
1 16 30m
2 17 40m
3 13 30m

FA: Eckhart Druschke & Jerry Linke, 1975

Trad 100m
17 Ouink - Pyromania variation
1 16 35m
2 12 20m
3 17 8m
4 17 25m
5 14 30m

Off-width instead of Ouink's open books

FA: Dean van der Merwe & David Mitchell, 6 Jul 2014

Trad 120m, 5
18 A0 Hidden Sting
1 17 30m
2 18 A0 20m
3 13 30m

FA: Romey Druschke, Eckhart Druschke & Jerry Linke, 1977

Trad 80m
18 Oh Boy!
1 18 45m
2 11 45m

FA: Kevin Kruger & Mark Giddy, 1983

Trad 90m
11 Dilution

FA: K. Kroger, D. Steenkamp, E. Lubbe & D. Lubbe, 1968

Trad
18 Fireball
1 17 35m
2 18 20m
3 15 35m
4 17 20m
5 16 35m

FA: Eckhart Druschke, Jerry Linke & Romey Stapley, 1976

Trad 150m
18 Irish Stew
1 18 30m
2 17 30m

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Adele Margetts, 1986

Trad 60m
20 Australopithecus Robustus

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Tarquin Holt, 1987

Trad 45m
21 A0 On Any Sunday
1 21 A0 35m
2 18 15m

FA: Ken Thrash & Chris Ziranek, Mar 2016

Trad 50m, 2
23 New Generation
1 17 15m
2 23 25m

FA: Michael Cartwright & Cathy O'Dowd, 1989

Trad 40m
20 Australopithecus Robotix
1 20 35m
2 14 40m

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Tarquin Holt, 1987

Trad 75m
18 A Column for Nelson

FA: Russ Dodding & Heather Murch, 1999

Trad 42m
19 A Perfect Day
1 16 20m
2 19 20m

FA: Ken Thrash, Chris Ziranek & Paul Fatti, Nov 2014

Trad 40m, 2
20 Independence Day
1 16 20m
2 20 20m

FA: Russ Dodding & Heather Murch, 1999

Trad 40m
13 Squeeze 'N Squirm
1 13 30m
2 6 30m
3 13 33m
4 8 26m

FA: J. Pipich, E. Lubbe & D. Lubbe, 1968

Trad 120m
13 Drip 'N Drag
1 13 23m
2 5 30m
3 13 35m
4 8 33m

FA: D. Steenkamp, K. Kroger, J. Schoeman, J. Austin, E. Lubbe & D. Lubbe, 1968

Trad 120m
Main Crag
15 Generation Gap
1 5 50m
2 15 20m
3 11 10m
4 11 30m
5 6 10m

FA: H. Boshoff, J. Schooling, K. Kroger & D. Lubbe, 1973

Trad 120m
15 Gemini
1 11 30m
2 13 30m
3 15 30m
4 7 33m

FA: J. Mosman, J. Vorster, A. Klette & K. Kroger, 1968

Trad 120m
19 Sweet Little Mystery
1 16 25m
2 19 50m

FA: Mark Seuring & Claire Keeton, 1996

Trad 75m
17 Idem Dole
1 11 26m
2 17 24m
3 15 20m
4 15 33m

the name means "I'm falling off!" in Slovak

FA: J. Pipich & K. Kroger, 1969

Trad 100m
18 Toothache
1 16 33m
2 16 30m
3 17 30m
4 8 40m
5 18

FA: K. Kroger, K. Dauter, E. Meyer & D. Lubbe, 1968

Trad 130m
16 Toothpaste
1 15 30m
2 16 30m
3 13 15m
4 15 40m

FA: Jerry Linke, T. Hoy & J. Bullock, 1974

Trad 120m
21 The Mangler
1 17 20m
2 21 20m
3 18 35m

FA: Kevin Smith, Andrew Smith & Michelle Mears, 1980

Trad 75m
19 Mcfat's Lgp
1 16 25m
2 19 25m
3 19 40m

FA: Paul Fatti & Art McGarr, 1971

Trad 90m
20 Rockin Me Gently
1 17 25m
2 20 30m
3 16 20m

FA: John Brown & Campbell Cairns, 1981

Trad 75m
19 Corpuscle
1 17 25m
2 19 30m
3 16 25m

FA: Eckhart Druschke & Jerry Linke, 1975

Trad 80m
17 Van Der Merwe's Crack
1 12 43m
2 17 35m
3 17 25m

FA: .V. Richter, N. Margetts, L. J. Richter & D. Margetts, 1984

Trad 100m
17 Hanepoot
1 15 25m
2 15 20m
3 17 35m
4 13 30m
5 7 45m

FA: H. Boshoff, G. Graafland & C. Malherbe, 1974

Trad 160m
21 Vintage 48
1 19 30m
2 21 30m
3 12 30m

FA: Paul Fatti & Gordon Erens, 1991

Trad 90m
16 Madeira
1 11 30m
2 11 50m
3 16 30m
4 11 40m

FA: K. Kroger, A. Koster, E. Meyer & D. Lubbe, 1968

Trad 150m
21 Wise Crack
1 21 25m
2 16 10m

FA: Paul Schlotfeldt & Russ Dodding, 1985

Trad 35m
16 Continental
1 11 30m
2 6 17m
3 16 36m
4 7 17m
5 9 33m

FA: J. Pupich, P. Solar, E. Lubbe & D. Lubbe, 1968

Trad 130m
14 Sesame
1 10 30m
2 14 33m
3 14 26m
4 8 40m

FA: J. du Plessis & D. Lubbe, 1966

Trad 130m
25 C'est L'escalade

FA: K.M. Smith, 1988

Trad 25m
16 Bottleneck Bulge
1 11 33m
2 11 33m
3 16 40m
4 14 13m

FA: K. Kroger, D. Steenkamp, E. Lubbe & D. Lubbe, 1968

Trad 120m
17 Muscadel Crack
1 17 30m
2 13 33m
3 15 25m
4 17 33m
5 14 16m

FA: K. Kroger & D. Lubbe, 1968

Trad 140m
Cabernet - Muscadel Rap route
  1. Off the tree a the top of Bottleneck Bulge

  2. off large U-bolt

  3. off large U-bolt

  4. off large U-bolt

With 50m ropes, the last 3 raps can be combined as 2

Set: Clive Curson, 1994

Trad
19 Jesd
1 15 35m
2 16 20m
3 19 25m
4 17 15m

FA: Jerry Linke, Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1977

Trad 95m
23 JESD Direct

FA: Hector Pringle, Andrew Porter & Warren Gans, 2013

Trad 50m
21 The Grips of Wrath

FA: Russ Dodding, 1995

Trad 25m
18 Cabernet
1 17 40m
2 18 40m
3 5 10m
4 11 25m

FA: H. Graafland & H. Boshoff, 1974

Trad 120m
24 Johnny Walker

FA: Hector Pringle & Andrew Porter, 2013

Trad 20m
22 Witblitz
1 22 30m
2 19 25m
3 20 45m

FA: Paul Fatti, Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1993

Trad 100m
23 Crankenstein

FA: Russ Dodding, 1995

Trad 25m
21 That Furry Thing
1 21 25m
2 17 20m
3 20 25m
4 13 40m

FA: George Mallory & Charles Edelstein, 1987

Trad 110m
21 The Key
1 17 20m
2 19 10m
3 17 20m
4 17 6m
5 21 10m
6 20 10m
7 10 43m

FA: K. Smith, 1982

Trad 120m, 7
18 Hot Rod
1 18 30m
2 18 30m

FA: Craig de Villiers & Tim Dunnett, 2013

Trad 60m, 2
24 Dancing on a Highwire
1 17 20m
2 21 15m
3 22 15m
4 24 8m
5 10 45m

FA: K.M. Smith, George Mallory & Charles Edelstein, 1985

Trad 100m, 5
20 Some Like It Hot
1 16 15m
2 20 18m
3 18 25m
4 20 30m
5 16 30m

FA: 1975

FFA: A. Smith & K. Smith, 1979

Trad 120m
19 Let It Be
1 17 20m
2 19 25m
3 13 30m
4 13 35m

FA: Jerry Linke, Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1975

Trad 110m
20 Group-Grope

FA: Dave Cheesmond & Chris Lomax, 1979

Trad
20 Walking on Air
1 20 18m
2 18 30m
3 16 30m

FA: J. Brown, I. Slatem & D. Young, 1986

Trad 78m
20 Shisa
1 20 35m
2 16 40m

FA: Alan Lambert & Charles Edelstein, 1983

Trad 75m
21 Gang-Bang

FA: Chris Lomax & Dave Cheesmond, 1979

Trad
18 Reluctance
1 7 43m
2 18 36m
3 16 36m
4 13 24m

FA: I. McLachlan & M. Makowski, 1968

Trad 140m
22 All-Spice
1 14 40m
2 19 35m
3 22 8m
4 16 45m
5 9 40m

FA: Art McGarr & Paul Fatti, 1974

Trad 170m
22 American Werewolf
1 22 40m
2 19 30m

FA: L. Chambers & Tarquin Holt, 1982

Trad 70m
20 Tassenberg
1 18 30m
2 19 12m
3 20 18m
4 18 20m

FA: Art McGarr & Paul Fatti, 1975

Trad 80m
20 Mature Wine
1 20 35m
2 19 35m

FA: Paul Fatti & Russ Dodding, 1989

Trad 70m
19 Brazilian Bandit
1 17 25m
2 19 15m
3 15 35m

FA: Eckhart Druschke & Jerry Linke, 1975

Trad 75m
16 A2 Cockrobin
1 16 A2 20m
2 15 30m
3 13 35m

FA: Jerry Linke & Clive Ward, 1975

Trad 85m
13 Naboom Nuisance

FA: D. Steenkamp, E. Meyer & D. Lubbe, 1968

Trad
The Pillar of Eros
17 A2 Arrow of Eros
1 16 A1 30m
2 16 A2 30m
3 17 25m
4 15 35m

FA: Jerry Linke, Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1974

Trad 120m
15 Pillar of Eros
1 8 40m
2 15 13m
3 13 22m

FA: . Dawson, P. Norton, C. Sherlock, T. Hoy & M. Asher, 1973

Trad 75m
Test Area
13 Easier Than it Looked

first Access part to the Shelf ledge. Follows a stone ramp left of the end of the cable used to access the trad area.

FA: T. Botha & Andrew Louw, 5 Oct 2014

Sport 15m, 3
16 Expectations
1 16 25m
2 12 4m

Second access part to the Shelf ledge. Note that this route is over-bolted to allow a beginner to gain the easier multi pitch routes from The Shelf. If clipping the first bolt, extend it to prevent rope drag.

Split in 2 pitches to allow sight on the second(s) when belaying on top.

FA: Andrew Louw, 4 Oct 2014

Sport 29m, 2, 13
15 Misgis
1 15 25m
2 13 15m
3 14 25m
  1. 25m 15 (8D, A) Follow the easiest line that leads a slight bit to the right and to the start of a vertical wall. Follow easily a little bit to your left. (The wind and water is loud, communicate clearly)

  2. 15m 13 (4D, A) Step to the right and climb up the corner (crux) for a few easy moves. Just below the slab, pick a line that will get you traversing a little bit to the right and the chains. (The wind and water is loud, communicate clearly)

  3. 25m 14 (6D, A) Climb up to the first hanger and then follow a natural line of “least resistance” angling up to your right. When looking up this line, you will see a little green tree against the ski-line. To the right and behind/past this tree is two clean ledges above each other where the route tops out. (it is hard to hear your second from here) Following the line of “least resistance”, look far ahead to find the hangers hidden in the grass at each location where you will need to “climb”. Just past/below the tree you were aiming for, you will turn to your left and out of the “line of least resistance”. (you should see the hangers against the largest rocks in the area).

FA: Andrew Louw, Oct 2014

Sport 65m, 3, 8
17 Eagle's Squirt

Starts on the grassy ledge, few paces after Misgis. You can abseil in but finding the draws from the top is difficult. 1st pitch: 17 (8D, A) obvious up V shaped break. Delicate step over. 2nd pitch: 17 (9D, A) 4 bolts strait up then diagonally left (do not use the loose block marked with X) and up another 5 bolts to top out. Sloightly overhanging. Bolted by Odette Lippold

FA: Andrew Louw, 14 Aug 2021

Sport 60m, 2, 17
18 KOEKIE DEEG

Starts on the grassy ledge, around the corner from Eagle's Squirt. You can abseil in but difficult to find the bolts from the top. You MUST have at least 60m rope to climb. The route Tops out. 1st pitch 18 (9D, A) Koekie Deeg 2nd pitch 18 (10D, A) Stop Asseblief

Set: Andrew Louw & Odette Lippold, 2019

FA: Andrew Louw, 2019

Sport 60m, 2, 19
Ship's Prow
18 Shiver me Timbers

FA: Ken Thrash & Paul Fatti, Dec 2014

FA: Ken Thrash, Jan 2015

Sport 15m, 5
21 HeaveHo

FA: Ken Thrash, Dec 2014

Sport 15m, 7
22 Scallywag

FA: Ken Thrash, Jan 2015

Sport 18m
18 Savvy

FA: Ken Thrash, Dec 2014

Sport 22m, 5
18 Yarr

FA: Ken Thrash, Dec 2014

FA: Ken Thrash & Chris Ziranek, Jan 2015

Sport 20m, 6
19 Booty

The free standing blocks on top look dangerous, hence the lower off anchors have been placed below them. It is suggested that you not climb these free standing blocks.

FA: Ken Thrash & Paul Fatti, Dec 2014

FA: Ken Thrash, Jan 2015

Sport 20m, 6
22 Crow’s Nest

FA: Ken Thrash & Chris Ziranek, Feb 2015

Sport 25m, 9

Showing all 83 routes.

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