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Generation Gap

  • Grade context: AU

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

7

Description

The big, grey, north-facing wall high in the Muline Creek Valley is serious cliff offering thin, poorly protected wall climbing on excellent rock. For serious callers only.

Originally called 'Generation Gap' by the first people to climb on the cliff but, unaware of this, a later next party called it 'Cervantes Wall', a much more suitable name for this fine cliff.

RNA (outside of NV8).

The cliff is often running with water so have a good look from the road before walking in.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Mt Fox Area

While the Vic Range has a high concentration of Cultural Values (and all care must be taken at all crags), the Mt Fox area is within the NV8 (potential Rock Wallaby site), and not within any of the Cultural Value SPA's in the area.

Approach

Approach from the left end of Muline Cave via a faint pad.

Descend by a 50 metre abseil down "Baltic City", leaving a very long sling, or down the cleft left of "Dracula's Blood"

© (kieranl)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Steep, juggy climbing and some disconcerting rock.

Start: Start at right-hand end of cliff at obvious flake ramp sweeping up right.

FA: Melanie & James McIntosh, 1991

OK but some poor rock.

Start: Scramble 5 metres up the ramp above "Dracula's Blood" to belay.

  1. 25m (17) Easily up ramp. Up onto wall and traverse left along line to above the belay. Up weakness to overhang, undercling around left and climb line to stance.

  2. 20m (-) Rotten line above, then left and up.

FA: Steve Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 1989

Great but both pitches are bold and require drive.

Start: Start right of the huge wall, where a smooth wall rises out of the forest.

  1. 60m (21) Step onto wall from a boulder on the right and climb the vague prow on excellent rock. When things ease, move left and up to belay.

  2. 40m (21) Step left and up another vague prow in the wall until a right-leaning flake-line leads up to the roof-line. Ste left at roof then climb around it at its narrowest point. Move right on the brink of the roof, then up headwall past right side of upper roof-line.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1991

Takes the smooth convex wall left of "Don Quixote", starting by the shady gum tree.

  1. 55m (23) Delicately past bolt at 6 metres then step right to good nut. Up and slightly leftward until the climbing eases. Tend rightward up beautiful rock to an incut ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Up thin vertical crack directly above belay, with a slight detour via a flake on the left. Finish via a cave under the summit roof (as led) or straight up the overhanging white cleft (as seconded).

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks (alt) & Norm Booth, 1992

A grand route with solid climbing well out from runners.

Start: Start at the left end of the long ledge under the main wall, under a small flake high up.

  1. 40m (24) Move up on the left, then balance delicately up right to a break. Move right then precariously up to the next break. Traverse back left then straight up to the flake. Step left at top of flake and boldly up wall above to stance.

  2. 30m (-) Up, then tend left up wall until able to gain right-hand end of huge horizontal block at the summit overhang. Pull over roof-line to top.

FA: Mark Hopkins & Keith Lockwood (alt), 1992

Head up right to a bush, up thin crack, left along break to a bolt, then straight up past another bolt and the left edge of the crater.

Start: Start about 20 metres left of "Tilting At Windmills" on large boulders, below a crater high on the wall.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1992

Runout climbing up a superb wall.

Start: Start just left of "Baltic City"

  1. 35m (21) Up left a bit then straight up, about 10 metres left of "Baltic City". At about 30 metres traverse right to a wide flat jug then back left along a dyke-seam then up to the end of the big ledge.

  2. 15m (-) Up easily.

FA: Keith Lockwood, James McIntosh (alt) & Melanie McIntosh, 1993

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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Tue 25 Apr
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