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Cephalopod Wall 45 routes in Area

  • Avg. Height: 35m
  • Style: ?,Sport and other styles
  • Favorites: 1
  • Ascents: 152
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Access Issues: inherited from Waitpinga

Cars

A 4WD/AWD is recommended though not mandatory. The road through the paddocks can be very soft sand and there is the occasional hole. Groups of four or more people are requested to car pool whenever possible in order to limit the amount of traffic entering the paddocks. Leaving a car on Waitpinga Rd or in Victor Harbour works well in these cases.

Total Fire Ban days

Entry into the farm will be restricted on high temperature days (35 degrees and above). This applies to low wheel based petrol driven cars due to the potential fire risk.

Gates

Please ensure that the gates are closed tightly i.e. do not loosely attach the chains/wires so a large gap remains. CLOSE EVERY GATE THAT YOU HAVE TO OPEN.

The access to the cliff is via one of two methods.

  1. via private land or
  2. via the Heysen Trail coming in from the Victor Harbour side or Newland Head Reserve. The CCSA (Climbing Club of South Australia) has arranged access via the landowners immediately above the cliff top. Any entry onto this land must first have the permission of either Alistair Carmichael or Bernie Carmichael. This aspect of climbing at Waits is the most important as there is NO OTHER ACCESS to Waits except along the Heysen Trail, which would add about 90 –120 min to the walk in time!

Phone numbers are available from the CCSA Online Waitpinga guide at

http://www.climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/guides.html

Routes

Route Grade Popularity Style
1 *** Down to the Sea in Slips
18
Unknown
2 Squid
11
Unknown
3 Simpkin's Chimney
4
Unknown
4 Stimulus Package

take a #1 cam

FA: Peter Daish, Des Hudson, 2009

17
Sport 20m
5 Mussels and Weeds
14
Unknown
6 Abalone
9
Unknown
7 Pincer
10
Unknown
8 Pincer Variant Finish

as in the guide book

10
Trad 27m
9 South Sea Burble
9
Unknown
10 All Day Sucker
15
Unknown
11 * Hard to Starboard

FA: Steve Kelly/Pete Daish, 2009

20
Unknown 25m
12 ** Taleah Grace

FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat,

13
Unknown 25m
13 Sea Lion

FA: Damien Hall, Peter Daish,

20
Unknown 55m
14 Sea Lion Pup

Climb 2/3 of Sea Lion pitch 1, then step L to Taleah Grace chains.

12
Sport 30m
15 Sea Lion P1

Sea Lion 1st pitch to 1st horizontal. If using a 60m rope lower to TG chains

18
Sport 35m, 10
16 Georgie Rose

FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat,

18
Unknown 30m
17 *** Achilles Gambit

FA: Peter Daish,

21
Unknown 30m
18 *** Buoy oh Buoy

FA: Tony Barker, Mike Broadbent,

23
Aid 60m
19 The Guru Memorial Buttress
15 A3
Aid
20 True North

FA: Peter Daish, Alister Carmichael, 2007

23
Unknown 27m
21 ** True North Easy Variant

FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat,

15
Trad 17m
22 Atlas
15 A2
Aid 59m
23 ** Lost While Sailing
23
Unknown 30m
24 * Lost Socks

Mixed protection, 4 bolts and natural gear.

FA: John Nankivell, Alister Carmichael,

18
Trad 31m, 4
25 ** Atlantic Cruise

FA: Mark Leonard, Sandy Hancock, 1989

20
Unknown 59m
26 * Clear the Decks Pitch One
17
Unknown 20m
27 Clear and Smooth
16
Unknown 20m
28 ** Clear the Decks
24
Unknown 48m
29 Dutchy's Route

FA: Jaimie Holland, Peter Daish,

18
Unknown 48m
30 * Its Barque is Worse Than Its Bight
17
Unknown
31 ** Smooth Sailing
23
Unknown 30m
32 Smooth and Easy
16
Unknown 20m
33 Smooth Criminal

FA: Peter Daish, Damien Hall,

24 A0
Aid 35m
34 * Mercy
13
Unknown 18m
35 * Mercy Medium
17
Sport
36 Mercy Hard
20
Unknown
37 *** Clearing The Mind
19
Unknown 27m
38 ** Claw
14
Unknown
39 Crow's Nest
14
Unknown
40 Albatross
15
Unknown
41 Rum, Sodomy, and the Lash
13
Unknown 28m
42 Hello Sailor
13
Unknown 28m
43 Magic Mountain

Essentially a retrobolt of Hello Sailor, the description of which appeared in Rock 43.

13
Sport 23m, 6
44 Wet Patch

The L arete of the chimney at the R end of the wall.

11
Sport 23m, 6
45 *** A Good Line

A traverse of cephalopod wall in either direction staying about 10m above the rock or water.

18
Unknown 110m