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Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 3

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

Includes the first route done (Dolgoruki Direct) and the East facing orange wall to the L. It is complicated somewhat by the 3 tiers that the climbs start from.

Access issues inherited from Iskra Crag

None

Approach

Approach as to Flower Power Block, then drop down to the L and around onto the toe of the buttress. (Can also be approached from the Eastern side)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: 10m R of Dolgoruki Direct on the W facing part of the buttress. Flake crack to scoop, up corner to belay in through-cave. The other side of the cave is on the First Tier ledge, scramble off.

FA: Ben Wright, Heather Murray & Geoff Brian, 2004

Start at the edge of the rib at the foot of the main buttress. 1) 43m. Ascend the rib to a ledge at 4m, up overhanging chimney then follow the edge of the rib to the obvious overhang. 2) 15m. Climb through the slight break in the overhang (one of those height dependent gradings - you have been warned). Immediately above the lip traverse R for 3m to the rib then continue vertically to a large ledge. 3) 36m. Keeping as close to the edge of the rib as possible, but actually on the R wall, continue on to the summit and glory.

FA: 1968

The next set of climbs are on the tiered walls to the L of the Dolgoruki rib (Facing East), each tier being separated by a ledge where it is possible to walk / scramble off.

On the lowest tier of the orange wall. Steep flake / crack in the middle of the wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1985

The RH crack above, and to the L of Mandela. Good holds on deceptively steep face.

FA: 1985

FFA: Louise Shepherd, 1986

Starts a few m left of WTGAD and climbs the face via the flakes (with care) to the top. Poor rock and pro.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1989

The following 4 climbs start on the 3rd Tier, split by the obvious wide crack of 'Technique', 15.

Start behind (now burnt) pine trees at the far L end of the 3rd tier (at the head of a minor gully). Up R to a blunt arete and past a bolt to the top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1988

The obvious wide, leaning, corner crack.

FA: Wayne Maher, 1985

Starts from the LH end of the main ledge (6m R of the wide crack). Up wall trending L then up to top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1988

L leading line / corners at the R end of the 3rd Terrace - more or less directly above WTGAD. Can also be more easily approached by climbing the first 2 pitches of DD and up this, rather than traversing off R.

FA: Wayne Maher, 1985

The original guidebook describes 4 more routes (Black Stump etc); these climbs are on the next buttress uphill, and face directly East - and are more accurately described under the Eastern Walls. However they can be easily accessed from here, by walking up and L past the gully that leads to Game Plan. You can then also scramble down to Septic Crank, and easily to the rest of the Eastern Walls.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 19 Apr
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