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Romper Room Area

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 37
9
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First pitch is an easy, protectable chimney for 150 ft. Second pitch starts on a face but quickly moves left into a dank overhanging corner. Protection is back farther in the corner. Do not be tempted to follow the right leaning flake because it will peter out after a couple of placements and then you will have a long scary traverse left back into the corner. Protection gets sparse until you pull back onto a face up to bolted anchors. 140 feet. Third pitch is an off width splitter crack, completely exposed for ninty feet. A number five cannot be placed until the very top so don't count on big gear to help you where you need it most. The first opportunity to protect is about 35-40 feet up in a small flake on the right side of the offwidth. A .75 cam will work there. A fall before reaching the protectable flake would be deadly and would probably blow out the anchor too. Fortunately the crack stays very wide so you can jam your shoulder and knee in to keep yourself feeling somewhat safe. Rock quality is excellent. Definitely not for a beginning leader. Single bolt at the top with a nice crack for pro.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9782952638876

A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

This digital guidebook presents a selection of 27 multi-pitch routes taken from the book Rock around the World. Routes are drawn on zoomable photos. The content of the guidebook is detailed in the OmegaRoc app.

Red Rocks: 19 routes Thanks to the very sculpted sandstone of Red rocks, it is possible to climb routes on very steep cliffs at quite moderate grade. The protections are good and quite easy to place.
Trad 6a grade is required

Zion: 8 routes In Zion, the routes are often more demanding both in terms of difficulty and climbing style. 
Trad 6b grade is required and a good crack climbing experience

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Wed 19 Apr
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