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Memory Lane 74 routes in Crag

  • Avg. Height: 29m
  • Style: Mostly Trad
  • Favorites: 1
  • Ascents: 1,197
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Description:© (mjw)

Gully to the right of 'Fantastic Voyage'. Includes certain iron work and chips. From the top down to the ledge utilising 'engineering' to ledge, then left to main gully and chain. The first few climb are located within the gully.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsular are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. Technically neither of the agencies acknowledge climbing as a legitimate nature based activity! In reality, climbing is one of the main reasons visitors come to the Blueys. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Due to the 'nature' of the rock (and a recent fatality) bolting by visitors is discouraged (well, at least thats what people who reckon they own the place think. The rest of of us discourage shit bolting, not visitor's bolting). If you do need to 'top rope' then please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain. It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush! The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to esthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally its best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Routes

Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Sons and Daughters

Start: Choosy top wall of Memory Lane! 6m right of 'Fantastic Voyage' finish.

FA: G.Weigand,G.Clark, 1981
21 R
Trad 15m
2 Mawdren

Start: 14m up and right of S&D. Near the top of the gully.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983
19
Trad 10m
3 Amusement Park

Veer right and up.

Start: 3m right again.

FA: G.Weigand, 1981
15
Trad 15m
4 * New Boots and Panties Direct
21
Unknown 17m
5 * New Boots and Panties

Up and rightwards to arete, up arete then left across wall, up and right on flakes to arete and up to tree. 2). Take lefthand line to the top - getting into and out of the cave is interesting.

Start: On the right side of 'Memory Lane'. 15m diagonally right and up from FV.

FA: 1).J.Smoothy,M.Johnston 2).G.Bradbury,A.Penney, 1980
21
Trad 30m
6 Reminscences

A classic crack corner grovel.

Start: Obvious crack corner 5m right of NB&P.

FA: G.Bradbury,G.Robertson, 1980
17
Trad 40m
7 *** Walking Wounded

Partially rebolted. Rings and things.

Start: 2m right again. Scooped wall. Take #3 Friend.

FA: A.Penney,G.Bradbury, 1981
23
Trad 20m
8 * Soldier of Fortune

Flake to roof, over this to ledge, up then right of arete. Finish up TEMH.

Start: 5m right of WW.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Weigand, 1982
21 R
Trad 20m
9 * Collateral Damage

Wall to roof then up.

Start: As for SoF.

FA: G.Bradbury,W.Paton,J.Smoothy, 1991
25
Trad 25m
10 *** The 80 Minute Hour

FA: Andrew Penney,

18
Unknown 30m
11 The 80 Minute Hour Variant Finish
16
Unknown 8m
12 Pretty Boy Floyd

Take large cams.

Start: 2m right of TEMH.

FA: A.Penney,C.Sloss, 1987
20
Trad 30m
13 * Barefoot in the Head

Take large cams.

Start: 3m right again.

FA: A.Penney,M.Grey, 1981
21
Trad 30m
14 Bell Bottom Pants

Up corner to top of block, short crack to tree.

Start: Left corner of Bernutts Block.

FA: A.Penney, 1980
15
Trad 25m
15 How Much is That Doggie in the Window?

Start: 2m right again.

FA: A.penney, 1987
14
Trad 27m
16 Scary Monsters

Start: Left arete of the block.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young,M.Burton,A.Penney, 1980
11
Trad 40m
17 * Mekong Charlie

Scramble to ledge. Up outside of the block to top.

Start: On ledge 7m diagonally right of SM.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Weigand, 1981
21
Trad 23m
18 Godzilla Versus the Smog Monster
19
Unknown 5m
19 * The Green Eyed Monster

Wall and right side of arete.

Start: Left hand route on the wall.

FA: A.Penney,C.Sloss, 1987
17
Trad 22m
20 Napalm Babies

Start: 2m right.

FA: P.Martland,A.Dunn, 1981
20 R
Trad 17m
21 Green Around the Gills

Start: Right again.

FA: A.Penney,C.Sloss, 1987
19
Trad 17m
22 Alisons Playhouse

Up corner to top of block, crack to tree.

Start: The corner.

FA: T.Bernutt,J.Smoothy, 1979
10
Trad 27m
23 Alisons Playhouse Direct Finish
9
Unknown 15m
24 * Doctor Doolittle

Start: Just right of AP.

FA: A.Penney,C.Sloss, 1987
21
Sport 18m
25 *** Mindblower

Right a bit then up wall to hairline crack, up this to top.

Start: As for DD.

FA: W.Moon,F.Moon,B.Cameron, 1981
20
Trad 20m
26 ** Letters to the Editor

Start: About halfway down the ramp. Fixed Hangers.

FA: G.Wegand,M.Grey, 1982
25
Sport 25m
27 *** Interstate 31

The first route at The County (16/6/79). Very popular.

Start: Obvious crack.

FA: J.Smoothy,T.Bernutt, 1979
18
Trad 35m
28 Battleships

Take double sets of cams.

Start: As for IS31 then right and up wall.

FA: G.Weigand, 1981
21 R
Trad 35m
29 ** Junction City

Start: 5m right of IS31.

FA: M.Stacey, 1987
24
Sport 37m
30 ** Bairds Effort

"The first ascentionist deviated from the crack to the arete at one point on what is now considered to be the crux"

Start: 5m right of IS31, below crack.

FA: W.Baird, 1979
19
Trad 37m
31 Gentlemen, Start Your Engines

As for BE then through roof, up nose and right side of the arete to ledge.

Start: As for BE.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1988
19
Trad 40m
32 * Ghost Riders in the Sky

Start: 2m right of BE.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1988
20
Trad 45m
33 * Waglands Effort

Up wall past tree and large ledge, trend left to arete and finish.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: D.Wagland,G.Roberson, 1979
15
Trad 35m
34 Ho Chi Minh Trail

Corner to roof, wall via crack to ledge (big cam!), seam to top.

Start: 5m right.

FA: S.Knight,G.Weigand,G.Robertson,M.Law, 1982
18
Trad 38m
35 Centaur

Thin corner, slight bulge the right up to left leading ramp, up this to finish as for HCMT.

Start: 4m right again.

FA: K.Westren,L.Blackmore,J.How, 1982
13
Trad 20m
36 Phoenix

Scramble to ledge below corner, corner past big ledge, move left at top. Take Care!

Start: Corner 7m right again.

FA: H.Luxford,K.Westren,B.Ratter, 1981
14 R
Trad 30m
37 * The Skull-faced Omnibus

"An Eye catching line starting near the top of the cliff...strenuous and sustained but well protected."

Start: Obvious right leading crack that starts from the ledge that runs left from from the 2nd pitch of 'Touco (The Ugly)'. Best way to reach the route is to walk up 'Memory Lane' to 'Smoothy's Shelf' right along the ledge to its end. Rope up! and traverse to the

FA: A.Penney,G.Robertson, 1980
19
Trad 27m
38 * Golden Boy Wall

As for P, right to bolt, up and past breaks. move left at top break and up to yellow ledge. off left.

Start: As for 'Phoenix'.

FA: G.Bradbury,A.Penney, 1980
21
Trad 27m
39 Reprieve

"A direct route up 'Ragtime' Wall which is apparently a lot easier than it looks... An onsight lead would probably be a serious undertaking."

Start: The right side of the block 13m right of WE.

FA: W.Baird,M.Moore, 1980
21 R
Trad 30m
40 ** Barbarossa

Popular.

Start: As for R.

FA: A.Penney,M.Moore, 1980
21
Trad 40m
41 Ragtime

As for R to obvious traverse line right to ledge, follow line of least resistance up the wal - Take Care! - to ledge 2). Corner as for Touco. Has a DS about 10m right through the roof at 24.

Start: As for 'Reprieve'.

FA: W.Baird,P.Weber, 1980
21 R
Trad 50m
42 Ragtime Direct Start
24
Unknown 10m
43 Parasitic Slug

Up, left around roof then right of arete.

Start: 6m right. Overhang on right side of cave.

FA: G.James,G.Brickle, 1987
21
Trad 30m
44 Angel Eyes
22
Unknown 45m
45 * Angel Heart

As for AE but step left, up orange wall to belay.

Start: As for AE.

FA: M.Baker, 1989
22
Trad 50m
46 Touco
17
Unknown 55m
47 Blondie
14
Unknown 37m
48 * Pillow Talk

Up and slight right ,crossing QD at about 3/4 height, to chain on left.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: A.Penney,C-J.Jagusch, 1988
21
Trad 27m
49 Quick Death

Not as easy as it appears.

Start: Wall 4m right of Blondie.

FA: P.Webber,M.Moore, 1980
19
Trad 27m
50 Faded into Obscurity

No doubt it has...

Start: 5m right of QD. Corner and filth to ledge

FA: P.Webber, 1981
12 R
Trad 26m
51 Jungle Gut

"Steep gully bashing"

Start: Gully/corner 10m right of QD.

FA: G.Winder,S.Knight, 1980
12
Trad 35m
52 * Men at Arms

Slab then right to bolt, up right (fixed hanger) then left to small ledge, right under roof, corner to ledge. 2). Walk right and traverse off.

Start: 1m right of JG.

FA: S.Knight, 1981
22
Trad 50m
53 Riot Squad

Pockets to bolt, diagonally left, up to break, traverse right, mantle to slab and up.

Start: 7m right again.

FA: G.Wegand,G.Clark, 1983
24
Trad 40m
54 Hoskins Effort

Corner to roof,left under this and up yellow groove to end of corner, right to ledge. 2). Around left arete, up to ledge. 3). Right and finish as for CC.

Start: 4m right.

FA: P.Hoskins,S.Knight, 1981
21
Trad 50m
55 * Colostomy Corner

To ledge, left and up corner to ledge. 2). Corner to ledge, choss to bush (?) 3). Walk right and down to footledge and off.

Start: 4m right again.

FA: A.Penney,H.Jacob,G.Martland, 1981
19 R
Trad 55m
56 * Blackboard

Up wall and seam - check out the mower blade carefully - left at last bolt and belay on ledge. Finish as for CC.

Start: In small gully 4m right of CC.

FA: P.Webber,G.Weigand, 1981
24
Trad 35m
57 Doodle Bug

Left facing corner and crack.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: H.Luxford,K.Westren, 1981
12
Trad 15m
58 Lady Bug

Start: At ground level 2m right of CC.

FA: K.Westren,H.Luxford,K.Seddon, 1981
15
Trad 18m
59 Jitterbug

Chimney and crack to ledge then left crack.

Start: 3m right of LB.

FA: H.Luxford,K.Westren, 1981
14
Trad 20m
60 * TZ

"This desperate line is somewhat easier than it would first appear."

Start: As for J.

FA: M.Law,J.Stone, 1979
18
Trad 30m
61 Humbug

Wall and crack to ledge then right crack.

Start: 2m right of TZ.

FA: H.Luxford,K.Westren, 1981
14
Trad 20m
62 CBX

Arete to TZ anchor 1.

Start: 9m right and up hill of H. 'Arete'.

FA: G.Weigand,J.Smoothy, 1981
22
Trad 10m
63 * TZ Direct Start

Up to join TZ at first achor.

Start: Corner 2m right of CBX.

FA: H.Luxford,K.Westren, 1981
13
Trad 10m
64 * Highlites

Up right leading ramp then left to break, traverse right to flake, up to break, left then up.

Start: 4m right again.

FA: G.Weigand,G.Robertson, 1982
24
Trad 27m
65 ** Moonage Daydream

Excellent but could do with some bolts! There used to be a bit more to the flake at the top but it broke when gear was being set!

Start: Take care to bolt and rest, then flakes - Take care.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1980
22 R
Trad 30m
66 * Lapsed Catholics

Hard!

Start: 2m right of MD.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989
25
Sport 25m
67 Holy Fingers

Left of paint. Corner to ledge, crack to tree and ledge, arete on the left.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: G.Weigand,S.Knight, 1981
21
Trad 20m
68 Penney Ante

Corner, crack to ledge and tree then corner.

Start: As for HF.

FA: J.Smoothy,T.Bernutt, 1979
17
Trad 25m
69 Steves Route

As for PA then bolts on right wall.

Start: Up to tree as for PA.

FA: S.Knight,G.Weigand, 1981
17
Trad 25m
70 Kay Night

Arete, hand traverse right along ramp, up.

Start: 10m right and uphill from PA. 14m up Cameron's Crest and start on left.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1982
12
Trad 15m
71 Blondie (The Good)

Up corner and chimney, past block carefully, right onto face and up to bushy ledge. 2). Bash through bush to corner then line to the left up through the hole in the roof.

Start: As for T.

FA: G.Moore,G.Winder, 1980
13
Trad 35m
72 Angel Eyes (The Bad)

Rehearsed 'extensively' on abseil. Crux protection is a #4 RP.

Start: On wall 16m right of 'Ragtime'. 2m right of PS.

FA: W.Baird,P.Webber, 1980
22 R
Trad 45m
73 Touco (The Ugly)

Up to obvious traverse line, left along it to arete and up.

Start: 1m right of AE. Wide crack/chimney.

FA: A.Penney,G.Robertson, 1980
17
Trad 55m
74 *** The Eighty Minute Hour

Start: The arete right of CD. Many people traverse in from the left.

FA: A.Penney, 1980
18
Trad 30m

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