IV All Trad climbing 3 routes in cliff

The lower section follow the largest area of grey rock on the South East side of the mountain. Start 150 steps to the left of the fence, which runs straight up to the rock face. Start at tha large tree growing 3m away from the rock face.

1. 18m (E2) Climb up to stance above tree inside cave-like recess.

2. 22m (D) Step up to small ledge on right and traverse right out of recess. Climb up to ledge on right. Traverse 3m right into crack and up to stance

3. 30m (E2) Move up boulder on right. Traverse round corner and up crack past small overhang to ledge with blocks.

4. 40m (E3+) Climb corner above to grass ledge. Follow grass bands via exposed crack with tree on top, and to next tree which is below major rockband.

5. Scramble 5m up to grass ledge and walk left along ledge to a chimney and recess.

6. 15m (E2) Climb up to overhang and left to stance.

7. 24m (E3) After a long pullup, follow easy rock slightly left to a bush.

8. 18m (D) Climb diagonally left to rockband and climb out right to main grass band, which divides the upper and lower sections of Hanglip.

9. 30m (F2) The upper section starts just to the right of the highest point of the grass band, where it begins to dip steeply downwards to the right. Start well to the right, going up over a series of long ledges, then move left of a pile of small blocks to an overhang. Traverse left just under the small overhang and up to a block on whicha stance can be made.

10. 15m (F2) Traverse left along ledge, crossing an open gap by climbing down 2m in an exposed position, or alternatively climbing up and jumping down from a sleng point (E).

11. 33m (F2) From the belay climb up to ledge and traverse right until it is possible to break through rockband above (very tricky on loose rock). Continue right along rock band and up to grassy ledge and stance.

12. 16m (F1+) From the top of a block mantleshelf onto ledge and climb out to the right.

13. 18m (F2) Start about 13m to the left of a square corner by climbing open book to overhang. Traverse right to cubby-hole.

14. 4m (G2) Ascend bottomless recess to another cubby-hole. Originally done on aid (F2 A1).

15. 20m (E3) Traverse to the right and then climb up to an open book recess. This recess is climbed to a stance on a grass ledge.

16. 20m (E3) Climb a crack and work out to the left by climbing up to an overhang. Complete the route by climbing out to the right.

FA: R. Barry, C. Purdham (1937-12-25)

Variation: Starting from the top of pitch 8 to near the bottom of pitch 12, this section can be climbed in two direct pitches.

Decent: If the climb is completed in daylight, a fairly quick descent, involving a short abseil, can be made in the vicinity of the first saddle behind the main peak. As this route is not easy to find in darkness, late parties are advised to contour around on the rough, bushy slopes of the next 'hump' to a more obvious route where a steep grassy gully breaks the rock faces.

To decent to Hanglip North, the descent is as follows: From the top beacon of Hanglip, keeping basically right, descend to a neck between a small koppie and Hanglip. The koppie overlooks the valley of Hanglip North. DO NOT go down the gully, but descend the slope diagonally left of the gully.

Start in a recessed chimney 50m to the left of the fence (boundry).

1. 25m (E2) Traverse out of chimney to the left and ascend diagonally over broken rock to stance at a tree.

2. 40m (F2) Continue up steep rock directly above belay then traverse diagonally left, move up an open book (awkward) and continue left to a stance.

3. 20m (D) Climb up diagonally left then up right to the bottom of a right-angled recess.

4. 30m (F1) Climb the recess to a little tree, then traverse left along a ledge under overhangs to big blocks. Continue up diagonally right, over the overhangs into a recess and traverse delicately right to reach stance on a big block.

5. 30m (E2) Scramble up at first then diagonally left into a recess. Traverse left and climb diagonally right and up to the top of the first rockband.

6. 30m (F2) On the second rockband start about 25m to the right of the normal route. Climb a face until a ledge is reached, which is at the same level as the top of a rock pillar on the right. Traverse right moving over the pillar to a stance.

7. 30m (F3 A2) Traverse right 5m into a recess. Climb the recess and traverse slightly to the right and then back into upper recess. Climb overhang (aid) to a small ledge, ascend the crack on the wall above (aid) and move right to small recess and ledge (awkard and exposed move). Climb up to large ledge then traverse left to a stance with a big block.

8. 25m (F3) Traverse diagonally right for 4m. Pull-up a short step and climb a corner. Traverse left along a ledge to below a smooth open book. Climb the open book to a cubbyhole. The stance is shared with top pitch 12 of Hanglip Frontal. (This pitch is possible G1 for short climbers)

9. 20m (G1 A1) Traverse left 3m and aid up 2 points to a ledge (or move over normal overgang of pitch 12 of Hanglip Frontol Route thereby eliminating the aid). Move right into a corner, ascend the flared crack with difficulty and move out right at the top. Scramble up 3m then climb up a slab moving delicately over a bulge to beneath a little overhang. Layback out to the right and climb up to a ledge. (Stance shared with pitch 14 of Hanglip Frontal Route)

10. 30m (F1) From an old ring piton traverse right slightly for 2m and climb the face to a ledge, ascend the crack above and cotinue diagonally right to the top.

The climb starts 10m to the right of where the boundary fence terminates against the rock face. This is about 100m to the right of the start of Hanglip Frontal.

1. 25m (F2) Ascend the steep recess to a ledge on top of a protruding spike.

2. 20m (G1) Continue up awkwardly on thin holds, move over to the left and climb up to some chockstones.

3. 25m (F3) Continue up to a small tree under an overhang. Climb the recess above and exit out to the left. Move diagonally left then up a recess to a stance.

4. 30m (F2) Climb the recess above to just below overhangs. Traverse awkardly left around a bulge until it is possible to climb up diagonally right then up through a break to a stance at a small fig tree.

5. 45m (F2) Ascend the corner above for 3m then traverse right about 6m. Climb up to the grass band. The top section goes up the very prominent recess which goes straight to the top (to the right of the leaning pillar). Beacon.

6. 25m (F3) Climb up on left then back right into recess. Climb a small overhang (fixed peg below) and continue up passing a smooth open book until reaching a cave.

7. 22m (F3) Climb out on the right side of the cave then up to a ledge.

8. 40m (G2 A0) Climb the recess above, move slightly right then back left into upper recess. Climb delicately up to under an overhang. Pull up onto a narrow ledge using one aid handhold (A0). Continue delicately up to a small open book. Move up then right and through a crack to a ledge. Climb up a crack then diagonally right to a ledge beneath an overhang.

9. 25m (G3) Move up and strenuously climb the overhang. Continue up the stepp recess (F3) until it is possible to climb right and up to a ledge.

10. 40m (E1) Climb to the top.