A great sport climbing crag with a number of good trad lines as well.
A permit is no longer required to climb at Old Baldy. Parking cost is $10/day for all users through the MacKay Pay phone app, or a yearly pass can be purchased on the Grey Sauble Conservation Authority website for $40 for residents or $75 for non-residents. Up to date access information for Ontario climbing can be found here: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/ -updated October 12, 2021
Park for the Old Baldy area, part of the Grey Sauble Conservation Authority. Information is available here: http://www.greysauble.on.ca/ca_lands/oldbaldy.html
From the parking lot follow the Bruce Trail. Take the first right on the Bruce Trail to stay on the white blazoned trail. This will take you to the cliff. Then turn left, following the trail along the top of the cliff. Keep to the right at all forks, and eventually the path will descend a steep slope at the end of the cliff. At the bottom of the slope, turn back and follow the base of the cliff until you come upon the 'Fallout Wall'.
Leave no trace and tread lightly! Please refer to https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/climbers/getting-outside
Red tagged route: do not touch - route is a closed project and/or bolting is unfinished (i.e. dangerous).
This crag is one of the oldest sport climbing crags in southern Ontario. It was closed to climbing for much of the '90s and was reopened to climbing with a permit system through the work of Judy Barnes and the Access Committee of Ontario (a precursor to the OAC).
In 2010 and 2011, with support from MEC and coordinated by the OAC, bolts were updated on many routes meaning that despite the age of the crag, most hardware is new.
The property is owned by the Grey Sauble Conservation Authority (GSCA). Until 2014, portions of the cliff base were private property. With support from the climbing community, MEC, The Alpine Club of Canada and others, the OAC organized the purchase of the property which was then donated to the GSCA. After this the permit system was removed in lieu of a pay-parking system.
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Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780995046610
A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.
Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780995046603
A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.
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