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Summary
Limestone
El Chonta is known for the Cueva El Hoyanco and almost synonymous to it. There are two more smaller sectors on the approach with more vertical climbing. But the cave is what you are here for!
Description
Great holds and rests everywhere, extremely long single pitches and some super steep multi pitches on very overhanging, 3D terrain! The upper left side offers some climbs in the 5.11 region, followed by steep actual cave with 3D-climbing. Going up to the right leads to steep technical climbing on white rock (all climbs 5.13 and harder). The upper right side of the cave (Reina del Sur) offers steep climbing of a more technical nature with great climbs in the 5.12 range and lots of harder extensions.
The cave is so huge that it is hard to grasp its steepness until you climb. At some of the multi pitches you may lower to the ground from the fith anchors with a 60m rope!
There are not many easy routes (below 5.12) in the cave so be prepared to pull hard.
Access issues
Paid
A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.
Approach
There are 2 options to reach El Chonta, via the ranch of Don Procopio or via the ranch of Don Bartolo.
Drive west on carretera 95 in direction of Taxco. About 8km after Teacalco (and the border between Morelos and Guerrero) you will reach a Y-junction. Take a right in direction of Parque Nacional Grutas de Cacahuamilpa. Slow down once you see the mile marker for kilometer 122. Look for a dirt road on your left after about 200m (this is the second dirt road to the left after the marker, (turn off Don Procopio18.641191, -99.505889) and drive down and up to the ranch of Don Procopio where you may park. Make sure to check in.
For the ranch of Don Bartolo, continue past the turn off for Don Procopio for about another 500m until you see a building on the left in a slight right turn. Looking back you will see a big sign that indicates the underground river ("Visite el rio subterraneo"). Drive down from here (turn off Don Bartolo18.650607, -99.509635) (open the gate if it is closed) until you reach the ranch. Park there and check in.
For a guide on how to get there, see http://vimeo.com/64006776, keeping in mind that the next ranch in front of the cornfield (the one with the sign that says "Visite el rio subterraneo") is Don Bartolo's ranch, that is closer, but doesn't provide donkeys.
Where to stay
As for the approach you have 2 options to stay, at Don Procopio or at Don Bartolo.
At Don Procopio's ranch you may stay next to the fence or probably better, you can camp in front of the cave, plenty of spots to pitch a tent. You have to bring food and water though! This you can ask Don Procopio to bring over by donkey, for a relatively small fee (100 pesos as per late 2019). You can actually bathe in the Chontacoatlan river down at the edge of Don Bartolo's cornfield, inside a cave larger than Hoyanco!
You may also stay at Don Bartolo's ranch and hike in from there. The hike is shorter than from Don Procopio's ranch. Don Bartolo also rents rooms with shower but does not offer donkeys or horses.
Ethic
Carry out all of your garbage, no chipping holds.
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Nearby Icons
| 5.11a | ★★ Seres Inorganicos | ||
| 5.11b | ★★★ El Aliado | ||
| 5.12a | ★★★ Mala Fama (primer largo) | ||
| 5.12b | ★★★ Mantis | ||
| 5.12a | ★★★ La Bocina | ||
| 5.12d | ★★★ Reina del Sur | ||
| 5.12d | ★★★ Guerrera Cosmica | ||
| 5.13c | ★★★ Aguila Magnetica Azul | ||
| 5.13d | ★★★ Planta Baja |
Photos Browse all photos
Fredy Giron on ★★★ Reina del Sur 5.12d - 6FE9A878-4403-4BA4-94DA-C4C9BD064CD1.jpeg
El Chanchuillo - 6CAB0D33-F636-4D93-A95D-29B109680D7E.jpeg
Maria Aldrz on ★★ Bio 5.13a - D7A75D42-5B1B-4567-A9E1-DA1BB9273290.jpeg
Marco on ★★★ Reina del Sur 5.12d - 96DAC782-929D-4538-9F3D-179D4A75A3BF.jpeg
Tue 25 Apr
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